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  1. #11
    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    If you want the reddish tint that develops with age, you have to use raw linseed oilicon, not boiled. The boiled stuff contains chemical driers that make it much more convenient but it isn't correct and will never achieve the desired effect. It's also supposedly toxic to your hands where RLO is not.

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  3. #12
    Legacy Member MilsurpMM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Dickicon View Post
    If you want the reddish tint that develops with age, you have to use raw linseed oilicon, not boiled. The boiled stuff contains chemical driers that make it much more convenient but it isn't correct and will never achieve the desired effect. It's also supposedly toxic to your hands where RLO is not.
    Well do you think the stock has an original finish from the arsenal? If that's the case I won't even bother putting linseed oilicon on it

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    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    I'd say yes from the pictures. It's dry as a popcorn fart though. Get yourself a can of Crown brand raw linseed oilicon and give it a drink. That should be all it needs. I buy it by the gallon from Ace Hardware. If they don't have it, get them to order it for you.

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    Legacy Member MilsurpMM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Dickicon View Post
    I'd say yes from the pictures. It's dry as a popcorn fart though. Get yourself a can of Crown brand raw linseed oilicon and give it a drink. That should be all it needs. I buy it by the gallon from Ace Hardware. If they don't have it, get them to order it for you.
    You know what? I'm gonna go pick some up today. is it the same process as with BLOicon? put a coat on, wait an hour, wipe off the excess oil, and let it sit for a week?

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    Contributing Member rcathey's Avatar
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    The old adage (any idea on the origin, anyone?) is, "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year for the rest of your life."

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    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    It's the same process but you don't need to put it on too thick. I like to warm the wood up in the sun and then apply it with a sponge brush. Then lightly buff it out with fine steel wool and wipe the excess with a blue paper shop towel. You can add as many coats that make you happy but expect it to be a bit tacky for a while. That's how it should be. Some mix it with turpentine but I never have. Of course, I have a hot Carolina sun to work with even in Winter if it's out of the wind.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Dickicon View Post
    It's the same process but you don't need to put it on too thick. I like to warm the wood up in the sun and then apply it with a sponge brush. Then lightly buff it out with fine steel wool and wipe the excess with a blue paper shop towel. You can add as many coats that make you happy but expect it to be a bit tacky for a while. That's how it should be. Some mix it with turpentine but I never have. Of course, I have a hot Carolina sun to work with even in Winter if it's out of the wind.
    You buff it out about how long after applying?

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    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    I buff it out while good and wet. Just work in small circular motions and you don't need to apply much pressure. Then wipe off the excess with a blue paper shop towel. Repeat as many times as you want to get your desired finish.

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    Conservators at the Springfield Armory National Museum say that you don't need to oil gun stocks.

    OTOH, my experience has been that long exposure to low humidity (FHA gas heat) WILL eventually dry out any wood, & cause it to crack/crumble.

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    What about a 4:1 raw linseed oilicon and beeswax finish. Has anyone use this mixture?

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