+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 18 of 18

Thread: O.K. to shoot?

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #11
    Member flintlock28's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 08:57 PM
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Age
    53
    Posts
    19
    Local Date
    12-18-2017
    Local Time
    02:05 AM
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by fjruple View Post
    Flintlock28--

    What you describe is normal for both the Pattern 1914 and Model of 1917 Enfield. In this condition you can insert a small C-clap between the cocking piece and bolt sleeve to disassemble the firing pin assembly from the bolt a lot easier.

    --fjruple
    Thank you, I thought it was normal, but I wasn't positive. I was beginning to think the bolt/safety had some type of weird wear pattern, and this was a result.


    By the way....the bore was/is a little frosted by I'm assuming old mercuric primers. You can't see anything, but the bore has a slightly rough feel to it, when running a phosphor brush down it.

    I did use Wipe-out copper cleaner, and removed a lot of copper. I also used a little bit of JB non-embedding compound, and this has made the bore a little smoother. At the range at 100 yards, I got about 5 or 6 inch groups. Is there anything else I can try to smooth out the bore?

    thanx

  2. # ADS
    Friends and Sponsors
    Join Date
    October 2006
    Location
    Milsurps.Com
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    All Threads
    No Drill-Tap scope mounts for Mosin Nagant, Mauser K98K, Yugo M48, Swedish M96 and M38, Swiss K31, K11, 1911 and more! Bringing mil-surplus rifles to modern standard without damaging historical values! LIMITED TIME OFFER FROM THE AMERICAN GUNSMITHING INSTITUTE: Get Immediate Online Access To AGI's NEW Armorer's Course for Glock Pistols, Covering Every Generation of Glocks, Including the Latest Model 42/43 and Double Stack Pistols for ONLY $7.00! Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Chuck in Denver ... Buy-Sell-Trade .. Guns, Cars Motorcycles Service Publications - Collectors books that earn their place in your library! Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Canadian Import and Export Services (Click banner ad for more information) Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #12
    Advisory Panel chuckindenver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    12-10-2017 @ 09:46 PM
    Location
    Denver Co
    Age
    54
    Posts
    2,993
    Local Date
    12-18-2017
    Local Time
    01:05 AM
    even if it closes on the tool.
    felt resistance on the gauge is a pass. flopping down easy is a fail.
    by your post, id say your ok.
    warpath metal finishing contact info.
    molinenorski@msn.com
    720-841-1399 during normal bus, hours.

  4. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  5. #13
    Member flintlock28's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 08:57 PM
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Age
    53
    Posts
    19
    Local Date
    12-18-2017
    Local Time
    02:05 AM
    Thread Starter
    Yep, the bolt would probably need about 15 degrees more rotation to close....so i think I'm good.

  6. #14
    Senior Member RC20's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Last On
    12-15-2017 @ 04:12 PM
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    132
    Local Date
    12-17-2017
    Local Time
    10:05 PM
    The safety back when you close it is the way to release the striker assembly (aka firing pin)

    The best and easiest thing to use is a plastic bread clip that is cut a bit larger (slips over hte shaft)

    put it in the gap, open the bolt and wallah, it screw the striker out.

    Not sure how you stripped the bolt without doing that? Head space gauges don't like it do to the powerful cam action if left in.

    note: I will work on the SAAMI thing. https://www.milsurps.com/images/smilies/mad_smile.gif

    ---------- Post added at 01:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:25 PM ----------

    I did use Wipe-out copper cleaner, and removed a lot of copper. I also used a little bit of JB non-embedding compound, and this has made the bore a little smoother. At the range at 100 yards, I got about 5 or 6 inch groups. Is there anything else I can try to smooth out the bore?
    You might try Bore Tech eliminator and Carbon Killer 2000. I have cleaned some awful looking bores down to pristine new looking with those two.

    Reloading is the best way to get accuracy. 4350 works good in these, flat base bullets. Some use the oversize .311 from a 303. That would be last resort for me.

  7. #15
    Member oldfoneguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Last On
    12-16-2017 @ 03:55 PM
    Location
    long island, ny
    Posts
    92
    Local Date
    12-18-2017
    Local Time
    02:05 AM
    I know I'm a little late to the thread but I believe I may have some helpful input.

    For starters a M1917 with a full length military barrel in a cut down stock will never be as accurate as that same barreled action in a full length military stock. These rifles were designed to have some upward pressure on the barrel at the fore end of the stock. Without it the barrel whips way too much. When I had my M1917 in a sporter stock you could actually feel the barrel push down to the lower right as the bullet exited the barrel. I had 7 range buddies shoot it and they all felt it happen, not really good for accuracy.



    To work with what you have hand loading would be key. As suggested a flat base bullet is step one in a M1917. My rifle's favorite pet load after years of trial and error is a 150gr flat base bullet with 51grs of IMR 4064 behind it. I've tried heavier bullets and different powder combinations and this particular load shines in my rifle. My barrel seems to like extra bullet speed over M2 ball. This combination in a full length barrel will provide 2850fps. IMR 4895 and 4350 are a very close 2nd and 3rd.

    Next is to deal with the shortcomings of the rifle itself. Very slow lock time and a somewhat muddy trigger don't help either. I suggest a cock on opening lock from Numrich. It cuts the lock time in half getting the bullet out of the barrel much faster which improves accuracy. A Timney trigger can be added to eliminate the muddy trigger pull which also improves accuracy greatly. Personally I run a combination of the 2 which has transformed my M1917 into a quasi target rifle. Be aware however when using these 2 items together the sear portion of the cocking piece has to be built up or it will be dangerously short and the rifle could go off with a slight impact. If you don't weld I would strongly suggest it be done by a professional.

    I have been tinkering with my M1917 for 34 years and at times have actually reduced accuracy but in the end have greatly improved it to the point that if I shoot greater than a 1/2" group I'm having a bad day. Bill

  8. #16
    Member flintlock28's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 08:57 PM
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Age
    53
    Posts
    19
    Local Date
    12-18-2017
    Local Time
    02:05 AM
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by oldfoneguy View Post
    I know I'm a little late to the thread but I believe I may have some helpful input.

    For starters a M1917 with a full length military barrel in a cut down stock will never be as accurate as that same barreled action in a full length military stock. These rifles were designed to have some upward pressure on the barrel at the fore end of the stock. Without it the barrel whips way too much. When I had my M1917 in a sporter stock you could actually feel the barrel push down to the lower right as the bullet exited the barrel. I had 7 range buddies shoot it and they all felt it happen, not really good for accuracy.

    To work with what you have hand loading would be key. As suggested a flat base bullet is step one in a M1917. My rifle's favorite pet load after years of trial and error is a 150gr flat base bullet with 51grs of IMR 4064 behind it. I've tried heavier bullets and different powder combinations and this particular load shines in my rifle. My barrel seems to like extra bullet speed over M2 ball. This combination in a full length barrel will provide 2850fps. IMR 4895 and 4350 are a very close 2nd and 3rd.

    Next is to deal with the shortcomings of the rifle itself. Very slow lock time and a somewhat muddy trigger don't help either. I suggest a cock on opening lock from Numrich. It cuts the lock time in half getting the bullet out of the barrel much faster which improves accuracy. A Timney trigger can be added to eliminate the muddy trigger pull which also improves accuracy greatly. Personally I run a combination of the 2 which has transformed my M1917 into a quasi target rifle. Be aware however when using these 2 items together the sear portion of the cocking piece has to be built up or it will be dangerously short and the rifle could go off with a slight impact. If you don't weld I would strongly suggest it be done by a professional.

    I have been tinkering with my M1917 for 34 years and at times have actually reduced accuracy but in the end have greatly improved it to the point that if I shoot greater than a 1/2" group I'm having a bad day. Bill
    That is great information......

    If the rifle were mine, I'd go the route that you suggested. However, it belongs to a relative of mine, and he's giving it to His Son. It probably won't see more than 40 rounds a year thru the barrel.

    After using Jb bore compound, I did get the groups down to about 3 inches, at 100 yards, so that's "minute of deer", which is just fine for the 100 yard, or shorter shots He might encounter. I also re-blued all the Metal using Oxpho-blue (a cold bluing compound), and it came out rather nice. I would prefer to go the slow rust blue method, but my relative wants it done cheap. I also am steaming out the dents in the wood, sanding it down, and applying Lacquer, or Dye along with Lacquer.

  9. #17
    Senior Member RobSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Last On
    12-15-2017 @ 03:08 PM
    Location
    Dorion, Qc
    Age
    42
    Posts
    147
    Local Date
    12-18-2017
    Local Time
    02:05 AM
    I personally would tend to say you are ok since military surplus in general tend to have rather generous headspace. That being said I would consider using only handloads in her, loaded on the light side and only using brass that was fireformed in that specific chamber.

  10. #18
    Senior Member RC20's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Last On
    12-15-2017 @ 04:12 PM
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    132
    Local Date
    12-17-2017
    Local Time
    10:05 PM
    Agreed on reloads, light, have no issue with going to mid and mid high.

    I shoot at most 100 yards so I don't need anything flat. I go with the lowest that shoots ok.

    I do separate out brass for them, too hard to match up a closer chamber and this though it can be done in Savage with the head spacing. Length is not the only issue, diameter stretch also. Not nearly as bad a an Enfield 303 but not great. They are intended to work in battle conditions, mud, dirt, fowled.

    If you do a minimum shoulder bump back you are ok.

    Full re-size and the base will crack in 5 rounds, maybe a couple more.

    You really do not want that as these are unsupported bolts and a gas release is a bad thing (even in new guns)

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Similar Threads

  1. As much as I want, I don't think I can shoot this.
    By speckles in forum M1 Garand/M14/M1A Rifles
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 08-08-2016, 06:06 PM
  2. Anyone else shoot 3 Gun?
    By Stevo in forum The Watering Hole OT (Off Topic) Forum
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 06-22-2014, 03:48 PM
  3. What's it like to shoot an M2?
    By Greystone45 in forum M1/M2 Carbine
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 01-22-2014, 10:52 AM
  4. To shoot or not to shoot.
    By D-BOMB in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 07-03-2012, 12:33 AM
  5. To shoot or not to shoot uncut OpRods?
    By TheLongshot00 in forum M1 Garand/M14/M1A Rifles
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 04-23-2010, 04:29 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts