Restoration of a .22 Short Rifle Mk II... found in a creek

[louthepou]

Hi folks, got a thread started in the "Lee Enfield Knowledge Library" section but, I figure I should show the progress here in the restoration section.



After letting Liquid Wrench seep into the screws thread, I carefully worked on them and to my delight, every screw did cooperate.





These two arsenal repairs on each side of the trigger guard came off but one did not survive (dang)


Even this came apart easily (ish). Both the screw and the pin came off without excessive force.




interestingly the forend is number matched, but stamped inside the barrel channel:


Not sure about the meaning of this;


So, off to a good start. Cleaning will begin sometime this week, or next weekend.

Information

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[browningautorifle]

I'd probably glass bead and then hand paper polish...it would show nice after.

[WarPig1976]

Crazy it's in this good of shape....

[Brian Dick]

I see a rifle that's been through the post 1944 FTR process in England, (I've had and still have one just like it sans the long bath in the creek), and sports a phosphate with baked Suncorite 259 paint finish. A testament to why the finish was referred to in REME circles as "Rustproofing"! It's way better than stainless steel.

[nijalninja]

I simply cannot fathom the condition of this rifle after the situation that befell it. It is the kind of rifle I dream of finding and restoring. Take good care of it.

[Patrick Chadwick]

What an excellent prospect for refurbishment! Froom the state of preservation I would guess the rifle was lying in mud rather than water, as mud is very poor in oxygen.
For a start, I would simply mechanically clean up the metalwork with a brass-wire brush (as used for suede leather). Then use oiled 0000 wirewool on the rougher spots. There could be more original finish left than you think. I would not glass-bead it as such treament will remove any original finish and will not improve the markings.

Finally, a word of warning. You have seen what happened to the arsenal repair on the stock. Do not apply any of the violent means that have been recommended in the past (drying in an oven, soaking with caustic soda...) The wood must be fairly saturated, and any accelerated drying will cause it to warp or even break up.

[louthepou]

indeed Patrick, that's pretty much the approach I've selected for now. My goal here is minimal intervention to prevent any further damage, and keep as much as the original finish as possible. Remove the mineral or organic deposits on the wood and metal; repair the arsenal repairs on both sides of the trigger guard (I believe one of the two can be reglued, the other one I will replace); do all I can to clean the bore (there seems to be some remnant of rifling), and, reassemble, shoot. I have to say it's going rather well at the moment. The wood is getting cleaned up, will be oiled with pure lnseed soon. (after the repair is done). There are some splits and cracks which need to be reinforced.

[Patrick Chadwick]

do all I can to clean the bore (there seems to be some remnant of rifling),

If you need some encouragement look up my photos of the "Pickelgewenr".

Oil the wood with linseed mixed with REAL turpentine. That will help it get deep into the pores.

---------- Post added at 02:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:45 PM ----------

I see a rifle that's been through the post 1944 FTR process in England, (I've had and still have one just like it sans the long bath in the creek), and sports a phosphate with baked Suncorite 259 paint finish. A testament to why the finish was referred to in REME circles as "Rustproofing"! It's way better than stainless steel.

Agreed, which is why there is probably more of the phosphating still remaining than one might expect.

[Rusty_Old_F250]

This is fascinating, how did you find it?

I see photos of guys in eastern europe pulling old ww2 rifles out of the swamps, most of them looked shootable with a little work.

Sam

[englishman_ca]

I picked up a beater of a 22rf barrel for an SMLE, the bore looked like the inside of a stove pipe.

I cleaned it out with a bronze brush wrapped with steel wool. Had at her with lots of Hopp's and got most of the crusties out but the bore still looked very poor, lots of pitting.
Not to be disheartened, I completed the assembly and to my surprise the gun shot quite well enough for a plinker and I knocked down all my tin cans. Punched some nice round holes in paper too.

Your proof of the pudding will be in the shooting. You might be surprised too.