Looks like its been a while since loads were posted. I would love to see updates on loads for various Ross models. I have a 1905 and a 1910, and the rifling and barrels are very different so I assume that max accuracy will be realized by tailoring loads to each rifle.
I see several recommendations for Sierra 180 flat base and powders in the 4895-4064 burn rate. There are both round 180 nose and spitzer to choose from...which of these were better?
Anyone try 174 gr Sierra HPBT?
Information
Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.
I use 174 HPBT's with AR2213SC powder in Winchester cases. The load was made up by someone who owned the rifle before myself. Seems to do well with this load.
The Sierra 180grn Spitzer, or "Pro Hunter" as Sierra calls it, is probably as close as you're going to get commercially to the original military 174grn flatbase bullet. The Sierra and Hornady BT match 174grn bullets are a good choice as well, but the 180grn "Pro Hunter" is more affordable and plenty accurate for all but the most demanding target shooters.
IMR 4895 and 4064 are good powder choices, but there are others that will work equally well.
The Spitzer bullets in the 174-180 grn weights will regulate to the sights better than the Round Nose profiles.
The Sierra 180grn Spitzer, or "Pro Hunter" as Sierra calls it, is probably as close as you're going to get commercially to the original military 174grn flatbase bullet. The Sierra and Hornady BT match 174grn bullets are a good choice as well, but the 180grn "Pro Hunter" is more affordable and plenty accurate for all but the most demanding target shooters.
IMR 4895 and 4064 are good powder choices, but there are others that will work equally well.
The Spitzer bullets in the 174-180 grn weights will regulate to the sights better than the Round Nose profiles.
Thank you, I will try this and also some reduced loads with lighter bullets for short range. I will report back with the results.
Lee Collet Die issue: neither the 1905 nor the 1910 liked the lee collet die. With the 1910 it seemed to work fine but the action of squeezing down the neck pushed the shoulder out just enough that it is too tight a fit in the chamber. Issue seems to be that the body of the chamber is pretty tight.
And the stretched necks of the 1905 definitely didn't work with the collet die. I am resorting to annealing and full length sizing. I attached pics of what happens with 1905 fired brass and the lee collet die.
Looks as if the cases are being pushed into the die. They should enter the die easily, over the mandrel, then the last ram movement should cause the collet to close, squeezing the neck against the mandrel. I think your die needs to be adjusted. Make sure the collet sleeve is free to move.
Never mind the collet dies, a waste of time. A "Factory crimp isn't needed, your ammo isn't going to the battlefield. Just carried gingerly out to the range.
BAR, while I agree with your analysis of Lee's FCD crimp die, I think the collet die is pretty cool. How Gustro pushed the necks back is a puzzle for sure. I vote for the collet not moving. My Cousin just bought one for 308 Win and the machining and parts fit were even under Lee's already low budget standards. Take the die apart and make sure the collet (part pushed by the shell holder) is free to move in and out of the die body. If not use some 320 grit wet and dry sandpaper to get the machining roughness off. Do the same to the top collet sleeve where the collet hits it. The collet fingers need space between them. If closed, use a small screwdriver to separate them. Put a dab of grease on the top of the collet where it bears on the collet sleeve. NEVER completely use the die WITHOUT a case. Run the ram up, turn the die down to touch the ram and then one turn farther
The pressure is the tricky part: 25# is not easy to measure but after a few cases you can get pretty close. If you are using full charge loads and have a tight chamber, the collet die may not be the best bet, go full length but set up the die shellholder with a feeler gauge to push the shoulder back 0.002" or so. A gap of 0.006 to 0.01 should do the trick. Have fun!
Actually, when used properly, they are an incredible time saver. No lubing of cases which then need another cleaning, and no case stretch, saving a trim and chamfer.
PM
Originally Posted by jakester
