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    Legacy Member MilsurpMM's Avatar
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    How Can I repair these scratches without refinishing the stock?

    I bought this nice K98icon but these scratches on the side of the stock kind of bother me. I am absolutely not considering refinishing the stock, however, is there anyway I can cover up these scratches?
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    It looks like varnish to me. I'd strip it with proper varnish remover, clean the wood with clear ammonia and a Scotchbrite pad, let it dry and then oil it with raw linseed. The process will most likely make the majority of the scratches disappear without scraping and sanding.

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    Legacy Member MilsurpMM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Dickicon View Post
    It looks like varnish to me. I'd strip it with proper varnish remover, clean the wood with clear ammonia and a Scotchbrite pad, let it dry and then oil it with raw linseed. The process will most likely make the majority of the scratches disappear without scraping and sanding.
    The scratches go deep into the wood. They're scratches you can feel. I wish they were only varnish scratches but unfortunately not

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    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
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    I would go with Brians suggestion get it back to bare wood by ridding the stock of the bl**dy varnish that bubba likes to plaster on military rifles. Get a damp cloth and mum's hot iron and steam as much of it out as you can won't lift it a great deal but will be an improvement.
    As also suggested get to it with some applications of RLO letting it dry for 24 hours between coats the wood will come up a whole lot better looking nicer finish it off with a light coating and soft buff up with bee's wax thats how I have done all my 303 stocks. The stock will then look as it should not like some tarted up bling gun that budda wanted.................
    NB for best results the rifle should be stripped down so the stock can be done inside & out.
    Last edited by CINDERS; 01-10-2018 at 09:56 AM.

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    If you try my process as described, you'll be surprised that the scratches and dings where the grain isn't broken will raise up anyhow. You can go at the deeper ones as Cinders says but not until you get the wood cleaned of the crap varnish and dry.

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    If it is in fact varnish the process Brian described will yield very good results with an original finish.

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    It's worth de-varnishing

    Search the forum for "treacle rifle" and you will find a couple of examples that demonstrate how a crudded-up rifle can be enormously improved by removing old varnish.

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    If this were a coffee table or stair rail I'd say use a Filler stick available at any hardware store. Amish master carpenters and Swissicon watch makers call them melted in crayons of appropriate color, but it's not so it will look ridiculous.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser1947 View Post
    is there anyway I can cover up these scratches?
    You could add multiple coats of a flat/low sheen varnish or tung oil. That will act as a clear 'filler' then fine buff the stock. But I wouldn't do it. You'll just end up high lighting the dirt/grime that accumulated in the scratched wood grain. The hardest scratches to cure are those that run across the grain.
    As already advised above, strip off the varnish. Then give the wood plenty of time to 'Breathe' which will allow some of the grain to raise. Afterward you could try spot steaming over the areas that bother you. Before applying the RLO coats, Do a light sanding with 3M Flexible Polishing Papers. Before you JUMP out of your chair.... read on- You can get these in different grades. Below a link if interested:
    3M Flexible Polishing Papers | stewmac.com


    I've used the 3M Flex Paper for years. From polishing out scratches on pocket watch cases to clear and painted finishes on factory and site built cabinets, built ins, stairway systems etc. To include wet color sanding on lacquer and clear coats. Some grits finer than the kleenex you use.

    Good luck
    Charlie-Painter777

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Dickicon View Post
    If you try my process as described, you'll be surprised that the scratches and dings where the grain isn't broken will raise up anyhow. You can go at the deeper ones as Cinders says but not until you get the wood cleaned of the crap varnish and dry.
    Absolutely concur with Brian and Cinder's. I can't abide varnish on a military rifle.

    I think many cases of what appears to be varnish are a historic build up of boiled linseed oilicon ... It achieved the same result over time.

    The process of removing all this accumulated crap, the use of scotchbrite and raw linseed oilicon, will bring the wood roaring back to life, nourishing and allowing the wood to breath again. The results can be dramatic and very satisfying.

    One word of caution, just noticed your stock appears to be the "ersatz" laminated type.

    I haven't personally restored one of these before, anything to watch out for with these when restoring guys?

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