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  1. #1
    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    P38 ac45

    Finally found a P38 I could afford today.

    It's an ac45 b block with all three proofs and an fnh barrel. Numbers match. Parts supposed to be in the white are in the white. It does have black soft plastic grips that I do not believe are correct for this. Phosphated non marked magazine. It's wartime but not by much. March of 1945 from what I can gather. Finish is decent but has some hard dings in the metal, notably near the hammer well and the trigger guard. Bore is excellent, this one hasn't seen many rounds.

    Paid $550 for it and considering the fnh barrel, I think that was a very good price these days.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Legacy Member matthanne1's Avatar
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    The grips may be durofol, if so then inside you'll see their diamond logo. Durofol were a black plastic-like material in use by that time and so could be correct for this very late war make. With three proofs, it was likely one of the last ones assembled at the plant before the 11th AD and 90th ID showed up and closed it.

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    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    No markings on the inside of the grips but they do seem to match descriptions of Mauser grips. Double circles on left and center thing on right. Not positive though. I know very little about these.

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    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    Took some photos and noticed markings on the magazine. Appears to be a late war Walther magazine P38v over a U, no serial which should be correct. Not sure how I missed that during visual inspection. Easy to see. Did not find anything anywhere on the grips but did notice additional proofs on one of the internal parts that has the serial number on it. Eagle and swastika on one side and proof mark on the other. The dents on the back almost look like someone tried to make it not function by preventing the hammer from falling. Not deep enough to do that but I can't think of any other reason to do it. Like I said, I know very little about these. I don't think I could hurt myself price wise for a shooter in any case. The grips are the obvious big question mark although further research today indicates that a lot of late war Walthers have Mauser grips. I see an 8 on the front sight, left side. Serial numbers on frame above trigger, the slide, the barrel on the front just below the barrel and that part that is in the white inside. I didn't take it any further apart. There is what looks to be a F just under the lanyard loop under the grips. That's all the markings I noticed besides the proofs. From some research, probably March production, quite possibly one of the last few thousand to have been produced and accepted before the factory was captured.



























    Last edited by Aragorn243; 02-12-2018 at 06:04 PM.

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    Legacy Member matthanne1's Avatar
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    They are Otto Single Type I grips. They are acceptable for this model.

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    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    Found another eagle over swastika on the rear of the barrel.

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    Legacy Member Simon P's Avatar
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    Great looking pistol, have you fired it
    Regards Simon

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    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    No, I just got it on Sunday. It will go to the range my next trip which hopefully will be soon. I watched Hickock on You Tube shooting at steel plates at 80 yards with one of these. That guy is amazing sometimes.

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    Legacy Member oldfoneguy's Avatar
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    You have a very nice pistol. If you dig through this section you will find my post of my BYF 44 P38 which I found in beautiful nearly unused condition. Here is a link for complete disassembly which could be helpful How to disassemble P1 / P38 - WaltherForums . Here is another link as to the valuation and collectability of each model P38 http://p38forum.com/technical/P38Chart.pdf . Here is another link that will give you a good idea when it was made by serial number http://www.p38forum.com/P38ProductionDates.pdf . If your going to shoot it use ONLY STANDARD VELOSITY 9mm ammo with a bullet weight of 124gr which is what it was designed to use (Parabellum Round). 115 gr rounds might jam sometimes as they are shorter in overall length and 147gr rounds will beat up a 73 year old wartime production pistol more than it needs. Be aware that the slides have a tendency to crack at the bridge in front of the chamber and the locking blocks can crack too which will destroy any collectability the pistol has. For these reasons correct ammo is essential and try to avoid rapid fire which is hard to do with a P38! Enjoy and good luck with it. - Bill

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  14. #10
    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    Now I'm having second thoughts of shooting it. I never intended for it to be a safe queen but never intended to fire it a lot either. Maybe a magazine or two every once in a while. What type of risk of breakage is there? I don't think this one has been fired much but who knows. Lot of opinions both for and against out there. Rather have some solid data if I'm going to take the risk.

    What about finding a cheap upper assembly and using that to shoot? Some guys talk about that also.

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