+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: To Blue or Not to Blue

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #11
    Legacy Member Mk VII's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Last On
    03-20-2024 @ 07:30 PM
    Location
    England
    Age
    62
    Posts
    1,406
    Real Name
    James West
    Local Date
    03-29-2024
    Local Time
    07:40 AM
    Most well-used No.1 forends have developed a crack at the rear, probably why India added a strap there to the late ones, and why the No.4 forend got one.

  2. # ADS
    Friends and Sponsors
    Join Date
    October 2006
    Location
    Milsurps.Com
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    All Threads
    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #12
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 12:49 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,839
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    03-29-2024
    Local Time
    12:40 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Mk VII View Post
    Most well-used No.1 forends have developed a crack at the rear
    Not what he said...not the forend...
    Regards, Jim

  4. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  5. #13
    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Last On
    03-25-2024 @ 11:01 AM
    Location
    South West Western Australia
    Posts
    7,734
    Real Name
    CINDERS
    Local Date
    03-29-2024
    Local Time
    03:40 PM
    " I would like to have a non-permanent solution in which I can blue it, but the bluing could easily be taken off for it to retain its original collectible"
    Why would you want to put a finish on a rifle just to take it off again what would be the point of the exercise, to see what it would look like with blue or rust blue finish thing is once you start playing doing this stuff your going to end up with variations in the metal colour.
    Also you are removing the rifles patina that it has accumulated on its journey to date which is what most of us here regard as the correct thing, the original finish has worn off through perhaps usage and thats what gives all the milsurp rifles their character.

    Seen allot of Lee Enfields have a few myself and shoot military matches with them where there are more Lee's to see I have yet to see the "Cracked at the Wrist like most enfields" as per your post, yes the bottom fore wood splits removing the butt first your statement holds no value unless twats were trying to stamp out invading fire ants with the butt.
    To keep its value do not do anything with it just use RLO/Turps on the stock 50/50 mix with gun oil or Balistol on the metal work.
    Pictures of the said rifle would go along way for the forumer's advising on the best course of action as no opinions of what to do can be formed by reading words.
    If you think about how many wars these things have been through and the places they have been of course there is going to be variance between them.
    I am all for leaving a weapon as is providing it is not a rusted hulk then obviously something has to be done, in these cases its not to improve the value but the value the restorer gets from bringing the said piece back to its former glory rather than re-sale....
    Last edited by CINDERS; 04-13-2018 at 09:12 PM.

  6. #14
    Advisory Panel Surpmil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Last On
    @
    Location
    West side
    Posts
    4,651
    Local Date
    03-29-2024
    Local Time
    12:40 AM
    Depends on many variables:
    1. are you doing the work yourself or paying someone to do it?
    2. does the mechanical condition (rifling particularly) justify the expense?
    3. will such work harm the resale value?
    4. what condition is the woodwork in?

    If the woodwork is original and not refinished, refinishing the metalwork will unavoidably produce a sort of freak that will be immediately obvious as a non-ordnance rework. Refinishing the woodwork is even worse and will ruin the originality, collectability and value to a large extent.

    That said, it's yours and you can do whatever you want with it. Worth taking a little time to consider though.

    Angier's book on refinishing remains the definitive source AFAIK. Originally the trigger, cocking piece, safety lever etc. would have been oil-blacked and lacquered and barreled-action etc. blued, but the blue used between the wars at least, appears to have been a surface deposit rather than a simple hot tank blue as we are used to today.
    “There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”

    Edward Bernays, 1928

    Much changes, much remains the same.

  7. #15
    Contributing Member
    bigduke6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    03-25-2024 @ 09:09 PM
    Location
    North West England,UK
    Posts
    3,279
    Local Date
    03-29-2024
    Local Time
    07:40 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Surpmil View Post
    Angier's book on refinishing remains the definitive source AFAIK.
    Worth every penny.....

  8. #16
    Legacy Member Bindi2's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 01:37 AM
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    1,446
    Local Date
    03-29-2024
    Local Time
    03:40 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Mk VII View Post
    Most well-used No.1 forends have developed a crack at the rear.
    Only happens when the great unwashed take the Butt off before the forend.

  9. #17
    Legacy Member Sunray's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    03-29-2021 @ 03:01 PM
    Location
    London, Ontario
    Posts
    1,053
    Local Date
    03-29-2024
    Local Time
    03:40 AM
    "...preserve the metal by cold-bluing..." Cold bluing does very little protecting. It's the oil required after putting it on that does that.
    "...a non-permanent solution..." Get some great, big, plastic, storage bags(not garbage), oil the thing heavily inside and out, then vacuum seal it in the bags.
    "...retain its original collectible value..." That one has no collector value. It's worth the sum of its parts.
    "...cracked at the wrist like most Enfields are..." Most are not and if that one is cracked anywhere it's worthless. The only value it'll ever have is as a non-operational display piece. Making it into one of those will likely cost far more than $500(absolutely not worth $500 anywhere) too. There are no more 'stock sets', but it's most all the wee metal bits and screws that add way up. Two or 3 bucks each for a sling swivel screw for example. Bolt heads at $14.90 each. $5.75 for an extractor screw.
    Spelling and Grammar count!

  10. #18
    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 02:10 PM
    Location
    Edgefield, SC USA
    Posts
    4,040
    Local Date
    03-29-2024
    Local Time
    03:40 AM
    I'm just today in the process of fitting a nos Enfield SMLE forend and have my trusty and very greasy copy of the Canadianicon Ordnance Corps 1943 "Extracts from Instructions to Armourers" open on my bench for ready reference. Under examination of the butt, fore-end and handguards, here's what it says.

    " Examine for damage, splits, warping, excessive dryness or rot, and especially at seacoast stations, for salt deposit; evidence of the latter will usually be indicated by rust on the barrel. Where salt deposit is distinctly in evidence, the fore-end and handguards should be replaced. See that the butt is firmly held in the body, and that the correct stocking conditions are maintained; where the parts are patched see that the patches are secure.

    NOTE. - A split at the rear end of the fore-end, at the junction portion under the stock bolt plate, may be ignored, provided the screwed wire has a firm hold. If the stocking is satisfactory, lubricate, as required, with red mineral jelly to one part beeswax."

    Many SMLE forends exhibit this split. I've had nos forends that were split before they were ever fitted. It doesn't hurt to work some good glue into the crack if possible and clamp it up for 24 hours before installation but as the book says, it can be ignored.

  11. The Following 5 Members Say Thank You to Brian Dick For This Useful Post:


  12. #19
    Advisory Panel
    Roger Payne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Last On
    03-20-2024 @ 06:05 AM
    Location
    Sutton Coldfield, UK.
    Posts
    3,429
    Real Name
    Roger Payne
    Local Date
    03-29-2024
    Local Time
    07:40 AM
    You beat me to it Brian. I was about to say just how many No1 forends I've had (& still have) that have this split, which show no evidence whatsoever of it being caused by abuse. I think the wood just dries out with age, & this little vertical splitting down from the keeper plate area is what occurs. Of course, abuse, like trying to undo the stock bolt & remove the butt before the forend, will do it too, but I don't believe it accounts for all cases.

  13. Thank You to Roger Payne For This Useful Post:


+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Similar Threads

  1. Out of the blue
    By CINDERS in forum Ammunition and Reloading for Old Milsurps
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-25-2017, 03:37 AM
  2. Rust Blue/Nitre Blue
    By no4mk1t in forum Gunsmithing for Old Milsurps
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-15-2014, 07:49 PM
  3. 71/84 to blue or not
    By kanterj in forum Mauser Rifles
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-17-2013, 09:16 PM
  4. Blue Because Of My Blue
    By STYER in forum Pattern 1913/1914 and M1917 Rifles
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 03-23-2009, 08:02 PM
  5. re blue
    By XLR8 in forum Gunsmithing for Old Milsurps
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-07-2007, 08:09 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Raven Rocks