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Thread: Modifying Mk1 Sten barrel nut into Mk2 lookalike

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  1. #1
    Really Senior Member peregrinvs's Avatar
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    Modifying Mk1 Sten barrel nut into Mk2 lookalike

    Hi,

    Apologies for not posting on here in a while. I do check in regularly, I just haven't had much to report lately gun and bayonet-wise.

    However, I have a new mini project... You may recall me expressing in the past the desire to return my 1944 MkV Sten back to it's factory original appearance. Repro foregrips are easy to get (although less easy to fit...) but try as I might I cannot find a Mk2 barrel nut for sale that isn't in the USAicon.

    A Plan B that has previously occurred to me is that you could make a lookalike by adding 3 extra holes to the front and rear of a Mk1 nut. The middle ones would be concealed when the foregrip was fitted.

    However, I didn't want to do this unless I could find a scruffy and inexpensive Mk1 nut that I wouldn't feel guilty about irreversibly modifying. On Sunday I finally found one.



    So I wonder if I could tap into the collective metalworking / gunsmithing experience on here as to the best way of getting 6 extra holes in it that are exactly the right size and exactly equidistant between the existing ones? The challenge is that my kit consists of an electric hand drill and an indifferent vertical drill clamp.

    Thanks for any help,
    Mark
    Nature and nature's laws lay hid in night;
    God said "Let Newton be!" and all was light.

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    The most accurate would be a mill/drill and numbered drill bits. Otherwise, freehand and a cross slide vise on the drill press. Numbered bits all the same...

    You found one that definitely lay on the sill of the barn for 70 years...
    Regards, Jim

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    Contributing Member rcathey's Avatar
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    I threw a little thought and Solidworks at this.
    Based on your available tools, you need to build a really simple self indexing jig.
    I didn't know any of your measurements so this is just a quick 3D sketch but I think it'll get the point across. Here goes.

    You'll need a "base" (bottom left), alignment pins (3 items on the right), and of course your work piece.


    Insert the alignment pins into the work piece:


    Position work piece into jig, rotating pins until they make contact with the beveled surface, clamp, and simply drill from the top.


    The angle and location on the beveled surface of the clamp will vary based on the spacing you need. The basic premise though is to simply use the pre-existing holes to locate the holes you wish to drill.



    If I can be of any help by modeling anything else, let me know!

    Fun little head scratcher to think on while taking a coffee break

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    We're making mountains out of molehills here. I'd suggest that yor friend holds the barrel nut, muzzle end doiwnwards on a flat surface while you scratch a line round the circumference level with the centre line of the existing holes. Now repeat with the breech end.
    Now measure the distance between the closest edges of the front 3 holes and mark the mid point ON the previously scratched line. Centre punch hard, pilot drill using slow speed drill and then foillow through using correct size.
    REpeat at breech end.
    Leave holes roughly finished with sharp jagged edges and ignore slight errors to make it look genuine wartime quality!!!!!

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    Really Senior Member peregrinvs's Avatar
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    Thread Starter
    I must admit I was thinking more along Peter's lines (with the limited kit and skills I have available) although I'm very grateful to rcathey for his thoughts and Solidworks efforts above. I've yet to go over the nut carefully with a ruler, but I'm hoping the spacings aren't done any more finely than 16ths of an Inch.
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    Contributing Member rcathey's Avatar
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    I like that idea. Probably what I’d do for myself too.
    Working in a production environment like myself sorta requires your brain to think, “ok, how can I make this repeatable thousands of times.” Haha.
    It’s a curse, I tell ya!

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    Really Senior Member peregrinvs's Avatar
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    Have had a play with a ruler and a tape measure and the edge to hole centre length seems to be 6/16 and the centre to centre width across the curve is almost but not quite 1" 9/16.

    However, for those of us brought up on metric, the edge to centre is more or less exactly 10mm and the centre to centre width is 40mm.

    The hole width seems to be 5/16. I shall probably invest in a proper 5/16 dril bit as an 8mm bit I own is a smidgeon too big.
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    Really Senior Member philb's Avatar
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    buy a round copper bar of the right size or turn it down to fit inside, and build up the weld on the holes, cant weld copper

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    Really Senior Member peregrinvs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philb View Post
    buy a round copper bar of the right size or turn it down to fit inside, and build up the weld on the holes, cant weld copper
    You could do, but unfortunately I have zero experience of welding.

    I thought I was doing well yesterday when I found the spacing measurements weren't too complicated. However, I've now discovered my drill stand is broken and I need to get another. I've finished cleaning the nut and I have blown some primer on it to help with marking out the holes.
    Nature and nature's laws lay hid in night;
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    Remember that when drilling on a round surface to use a good hard centre pop mark, a centre drill of if not a centre drill, a small pilot hole first with very little load on the drill.

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