Linseed oil...

[amadeus76]

So I went looking for raw linseed oil today and couldn’t find any. I did find boiled linseed oil but I understand that here in the states it had additives and isn’t the same thing. I came home and looked online and found some artists linseed oil which appears to be raw but it’s rather expensive for a very small bottle. My question is primarily...

1) can American boiled linseed oil be used or does it have to be real organic linseed oil?

Supplementary...

2) If it has to be real linseed oil without additives, how much does it take to condition the wood?

3) I’ve heard to cut the linseed oil 50/50 with turpentine. What’s the reason for this and does it too have to be organic?

Thanks!

Information

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[boomer656]

Raw linseed oil is oil extracted from flax seeds. You might find it easier to locate this oil labeled as flax seed oil than raw linseed oil.

[amadeus76]

Like the stuff you find in health food stores?

[Jonzie]

I’ve heard to cut the linseed oil 50/50 with turpentine. What’s the reason for this and does it too have to be organic?

I use the 50/50 mix with 0000 steal wool on dirty stocks, lightly scrubing just enough to clean if really dirty I use a little more pressure.
The mix is with boiled linseed oil. I have also used boiled linseed oil with some mineral spirts on fresh wood.
Two or three times letting the stock dry 24 hours between coats and finish with Toms 1/3 mix.
It can be found on the web good stuff and he has you tube videos on it , he is where I received the info. from.
Hope this helps

[P246]

Gamblins raw linseed oil. Cold pressed and supposedly no heat or chemicals used to make it. Cutting it with turpentine allows it to penetrate the wood. Most people now days don’t have heated dipping tanks to emerse wood in then let hang dry. They are rubbing it in, so it needs cut. I have to buy cold pressed stuff off the internet or sometimes you can find it at art stores. The last bottle I bought was their smallest size, after being cut I’ve used it on several rifles and still have about 1/3 left. It will go a ways. If your a purist the type of turpentine matters to. Stand oil found in art stores will work to, however heat is used when it is made. Not a big deal to some, but to others it is. Unless your oiling a dry collector piece BLO will work just fine, unless it’s for hunting maybe. RLO tends to rub in, dry, and stay flat. BLO if rubbed in over several coats will develope a medium to high gloss. Some hunters don’t like the glossy look. Good luck.

[Parashooter]

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sunnyside...d-Oil/38755119

[mrclark303]

Raw does dry/surface evaporate flat, but you can buff the wood with a microfiber cloth to the desired Semi Matt finish.

Boiled linseed oil used over years drys hard and slowly builds to a varnished type finish ... Horrible on a military rifle in my opinion.

As said 50/50 thinned linseed allows Penetration and can really give wonderful depth to a finish, then put it on neat until it stops taking it in ... Remove the excess and lightly Polish, job done.

[boomer656]

Like the stuff you find in health food stores?

Yes. Pure flax (seed) oil is the same material as raw linseed oil. Available in health food stores, big box pharmacies, and on-line.

[Brian Dick]

I use Crown brand raw linseed oil and buy it in gallon cans. Lowe’s and Ace Hardware usually have it. If they don’t, ask them to order it. Simple.

[usabaker]

I just made another order of these two on Amazon.


A master firearm restoration person I met in the UK that does this for a living told me to;

1. Fill a container with Alkanet root chips.
2. Add pure raw linseed oil until the root is covered
3. seal the jar up and let it sit for a month, shaking it daily.

On the other hand; The formula from The Modern Gunsmith published in 1941 (not so modern) is;
"
1 pint raw linseed oil
1 oz. Alkanet root
30 cc. turpentine
200 gr. lampblack

Boil these, taking care that the turpentine does not come in contact with the fame, or it will ignite. Let cool, and apply to the stock once every two days, until the wood ceases to absorb any more. Let stand for one week and polish first with No. 3/0 steel wool and then with rottenstone on a rubber pad or sponge. The stock will now have a wonderfully pleasing appearance, as the color will come out with the real antique tone which every one admires." (Howe, 1941)

Your choice of methods. But either way, you don't slop this stuff on.Put put few drops on the palm of you handand rub it into the stock, the oil will get warm while you rub it in which helps activate and set the oil. After a few hours, put a little of the oil on a clean rag and rub it in the stock. With the same rag rub the stock with a lot of pressure until its dry then just rub it clean with you hands. Let it set another two ot three hours and repeat.

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