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Thread: First date...and I broke her.....

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  1. #21
    Member bardo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    Just thread the front...no need to change it.
    The barrel assembly is suspect, IMO. It looks like a “metric” profile barrel with an “inch” (Britishicon in this case) gas block installed so I’m wondering what the gas port looks like. The way the previous owner attached the modified junk muzzle device is absurd so I’m also wondering what else they did to the rifle...

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  3. #22
    Member 82Trooper's Avatar
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    Thanks to everyone for their insight. Is Brian indicated I am going to order a replacement barrel. That should remedy the issue once and for all.

    ---------- Post added at 08:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:01 AM ----------

    For anyone else here in the states this is where I sourced the barrel. I cannot comment on quality yet as I don’t have it but it looks good in the write up the photograph in the price. Here is a link
    L1A1 Aussie FAL Reproduction Barrel | Sarges Military Surplus

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    Contributing Member mrclark303's Avatar
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    Nice one Trooper, it's great that it comes with the gas block and FE pre installed.

    Are they ( gas block,FE) original parts, or 922r compliant US made parts?

  6. #24
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82Trooper View Post
    this is where I sourced the barrel.
    Looks good.
    Regards, Jim

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    Member 82Trooper's Avatar
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    The specifications say it is US made and compliant.

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  9. #26
    Contributing Member mrclark303's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82Trooper View Post
    The specifications say it is US made and compliant.
    It looks really good, fully chrome lined too, just like the later Lithgowicon rifles ....
    .303, helping Englishmen express their feelings since 1889

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  11. #27
    Really Senior Member Bruce_in_Oz's Avatar
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    9/16" x 24 UNEF for the L1A1 muzzle. Standard 60deg form. Muzzle thread is easy to cut on a lathe, even easier if the barrel has been dismounted from the body.... that way you hang it between centres, dog it to a face-plate and turn the major diameter first, then cut the thread.

    With any luck, any "proper" Flash Hider will have a pretty concentric internal thread ex factory.



    The proper hardened steel "indexing" washers are around, but a thrifty lad can machine them up too., ditto the dinky "Key" washer that is pinned in place to prevent the FH rattling loose..

    Concentricity is more important than "rotational alignment"

    Some of us used to set up "match" rifles and would taper-ream the internals of the Standard flash hider out, a la the AMTU M-14 / XM-21 mod, but not quite as extreme. The idea was to bleed off gas turbulence a bit faster whilst still retaining the "Spirit of the Pike" and keeping the ability to fix a bayonet as per instructions / drill requirements.

    Be aware that the L1A1 flash hider in "service" use, is very prone to gas erosion of the forward ends of the "slots". Once the tiny gas-cut "extension slots" start appearing , they essentially create stress risers that will lead to cracking in extremis. The "service" solution was to simply replace the flash hider component; your taxes at work. People without that luxury (civilian shooters), seem to resort to a deft touch of the trusty Dremel tool to cut away any such gas-cut areas to leave a radiused end to the slot, not unlike some of those "foreign" FAL variants.

    It does, however, take MANY rounds of "proper" ball ammo to erode the Flash Hider to that state.
    Last edited by Bruce_in_Oz; Yesterday at 05:24 AM.

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