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  1. #11
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    Yes, I've always found it a bit of a puzzle. It's generally only found on the later conversions - the earlier rifles seem (unless they've been FTR'd) to retain the surface finish with which they left their parent factory. For example, the BSA's are blued (right up to some 1944 rifles), Maltby's are generally (IIRC) oil blacked, Savage's retain their finish of, is it, 'dulite'? Yet, the later rifles seem to be brunofixed, as Peter says, presumably instituted at H&H's......

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  4. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    Nice looking rifle...for sure...
    To me that looks like improper crystal formation and poor adhesion due to an incorrectly run bath. The chemistry of phosphating baths has to be tested and kept within certain parameters for a proper finish, at least that's according to the instructions I have read. Otherwise you get poor adhesion an overly coarse or fine crystallization.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surpmil View Post
    certain parameters
    Certain temperatures, or you get a green hue which rusts as soon as you dip it in water. Then you have to card it off with steel wool and start again. Yes, that looks different. Apparently this is not the same as Parkerizing though...
    Regards, Jim

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