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    Member Boom-Boom's Avatar
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    rebarreling a No4 Mk1

    Hi, I am looking for a full article on how to remove and reinstall barrel on a No4 rifle please

    tks in advance.

    BB

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Here's some threads YOU can search through... https://www.milsurps.com/search.php?searchid=12271329
    Regards, Jim

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    Really Senior Member jonnyc's Avatar
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    Bottom line...it's a bitch. I had it done twice, both times need a 'smith to mill off a good chunk at the receiver. Both barrels were rendered unusable. Fortunately I didn't need them.

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    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    It's no problem with the right tools. I was only ever defeated by one very rusty disassembly job and that was before I had the right tools. A vice from the RSAF and a custom plasma cut body wrench that will work on the Metford Mk.II right up to the L42 and never damage anything.

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    Really Senior Member Sunray's Avatar
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    "...mill off a good chunk at the receiver..." Not required if you use the correct tools. S'why you need a smithy who knows Lee-Enfields and has the tools. That'd be a barrel vice(NO REGULAR VICE WILL DO) with the correct bushing and a proper action wrench. The latter being the harder thing to come by. A Universal Receiver Wrench from Brownell's at $144.99USD will do. They call 'em all SMLE's too.
    You put the wrench on the receiver, the barrel in the vice with the bushing and tighten the bolts. Then bash the wrench facing the muzzle with a great big mallet(a 4 foot long, 2" Al bar works too) on the left side.
    You need proper headspace gauges for the reinstall. Done in the reverse.
    Spelling and Grammar count!

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    I made a set of barrel blocks and action blocks out of 1" thick by 2" wide aluminum bar. I use a REGULAR BENCH VISE bolted to my work bench and a barrel comes off no sweat. I use a pipe wrench on the outside of the blocks and a snipe if required. Nothing is damaged or twisted... But then, I've done it a few times.
    Regards, Jim

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    I've done it once or twice. Only ruined one rifle. Not just ruined it but went the whole hog and destroyed it............ We always left a bolt and bolt head in the action for some reason unknown to man. I did exactly that but didn't notice that the bolt head still had the extractor installed. Barrel just started to turn and tightened up. Tried to overcome the 'tight-spot' by unscrewing it a bit more ....., and more...... and more until it went further and totally defeated me. Nothing was going to save the barrel, barrel threads or the body or the extractor and the bolt was never ever coming out of that body. You can have all the right kit but just a slight lack of concentration and you're knackered!

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    Not just ruined it but went the whole hog and destroyed it
    Nothing by half...
    Regards, Jim

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    Really Senior Member Woodsy's Avatar
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    The secret is to have neat fitting action and barrel blocks. When you are ready to unscrew the barrel try moderate pressure on the barrel wrench as they are quite often only moderately tight. If it is tight then a good sharp smack on the barrel wrench with a big wooden mallet will produce quicker and safer results than a slow turn with a long lever. When making action blocks for the No4 you need to ensure that the load is transmitted through the 'cheeks' on the bottom of the barrel ring and there is adequate clearance on the front action screw boss. Failure to do this will usually result in the boss being crushed (and be a pain in the arse to repair!).

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    You're right there Woodsy about crushing the front trigger guard screw hole. We used to put a 1/4" BSF internal hex drive grub screw in there to protect it. But well fitting clamps do the job


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