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Thread: #32 Scope Repair?

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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    Re Browndog, thread 18. It's not correct and is repairable - but not by you I'd venture to suggest unless you have specialist knowledge and facilities. To be honest, and I know the experts will disagree of course, but removing the grat block to repair it involves stripping the complete turret assembly, adjusters, retainers, springs (and shoes if only to clean and grease them while you're there).
    Thanks Peter! I’ve been in contact with Brian at BDLLDT, I was hoping to get this scope to you to review / repair if you are interested?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    But to Big Duke's post. He's hit the nail right on the head. It's all about accurate and exact fitting too - and understanding the interrelated mechanical complexities.
    Thanks for that Peter, I,ve got some pics somewhere of the different stages of certain parts, on a multi turret cnc machine you could turn out buckets, for a standard lathe .........patience of a saint needed

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    Very good information to know on the repair for the No. 32 scopes .

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    While I don';t do them any more, the mechanics part of our instrument course was forever and as for the optics, I bluffed my way through it all - in much the same way as I semi-learned and bluffed my way through digesting the No8 and 3.5 rocket launcher trigger mechanism. Quite how the other experts have learned the intricacies of these 3-way optical systems is beyond me. I ought to write a book about the sheer butchery I used to encounter. Laugh with sadness...... That's a good title!

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    Anyone in the UKicon servicing and repairing no32 scope still?. I own a no32 mk1, I use it on my l42 replica/clone.

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    Someone has asked me how I replace the butchered/sawn-off anti-rotation screw on the No32's......., telling me that it was an official modification to counteract rifles where the telescope wasn't square on to the vertical. NOT so..., certain;y not on our rifles. Maybe on one or two home mades.

    Anyway, this is my answer. When I did them, I used to pull my hair out, try to punch out or drill the cross-pin, cut a small slot. But after a few, I made a set of jaws that would hold the two tube types and simply milled a slot right down to half way depth of the broken screw. Then using a small hard home made chisel shaped drift, just punch the remaining half of the screw upwards. Never fails

    Insert new screw from top, insert piece of suitable shaped brass and soft solder brass insert and screw in place. Shape to suit. End of. Never had a failure - yet! And I don't think that anyone even noticed.

    Jammed up clicker plungers in the Mk3's. We drilled a small hole in the diaphragm shoe and spring angled accuurately so that it entered into the jammed plunger and spring hole. As soon as it broke through, follow it up with a steel pin to drift the plunger out. You might destroy the spring but that's cheap.

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    Thanks for the post Peter, and what you mentioned above is what I have been doing with the jammed detent.
    The aligning screw I worked on another way.
    As you cannot run a drill from the end of the scope and only have a few inches to even use a screwdriver, with a dental burr and a cheap dental handpiece it just became another root canal.
    I am able to cut a slot in the remains of the screw and AFTER removing the screw or pin, I can remove the remaining part of the cut off screw.
    I have a home made, jury rig, "RED GREEN" jig for the tight ones and will post a picture of it. No duct tape involved...
    I just did three in the last two to three weeks.
    Thanks again..

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  13. #28
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    It's relatively simple to remove the very small anti-rotation screw retaining cross pin. I used to mount the tube exactly vertically and horizontally and use the smallest centre drill to start/centre the pin. Then drift it out.

    After seeing this, used in another medical application, I used a very long thin flexible drill, down a hollow shaft, slightly bent to shape so that the drill entered the broken broken screw exactly horizontally - or vertically from the drill chuck. Not a great success. Some success but others not so. So milling was my stock method.

    Long passed now I still get asked. Usually pass them on to the real experts out there in wonderland

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