+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22

Thread: 1915 SMLE bolt problem

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #1
    Legacy Member eggwelder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Last On
    09-04-2020 @ 07:57 PM
    Location
    Newfoundland
    Posts
    23
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    05:28 AM

    1915 SMLE bolt problem

    I have the mentioned No 1 Mk III. it is in good shape for the most part. I'm not sure if this is a standard practice, but i have done it for years to avoid dry firing the rifle. the problem i have is that when the bolt is closed on an empty chamber with the trigger depressed, (so as to avoid cocking the firearm) the bolt catches up and will not slide home unless the bolt gets backed off a hair and then it will slide home. there is no other function problems with this rifle. all my other LEs function smoothly in this manner, from No1s to No5s.
    any ideas?
    Information
    Warning: This is a relatively older thread
    This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

  2. # ADS
    Friends and Sponsors
    Join Date
    October 2006
    Location
    Milsurps.Com
    Posts
    All Threads
    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #2
    Legacy Member Daan Kemp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Last On
    Today @ 12:51 AM
    Location
    Centurion RSA
    Age
    73
    Posts
    1,397
    Real Name
    Daan Kemp
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    09:58 AM
    Soldiers in training dry fired these rifles many hundreds of times in practice and there is no warning in the training and armourers pamphlets about dry firing. The striker is a very robust piece of steel even for 1915.

    I would guess your dry firing would be much less than that.

  4. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  5. #3
    Legacy Member pisco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Last On
    07-02-2021 @ 04:36 AM
    Location
    aiustralia
    Posts
    156
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    06:58 PM
    hi i would wash the bolt in degreaser and then wash it in 2 stroke petrol it could have some **** floating around in there if it still done it i would pull the bolt apart and have a look inside as for draw firing i would not do it but every one to there own

  6. #4
    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Last On
    04-10-2024 @ 02:47 PM
    Location
    Edgefield, SC USA
    Posts
    4,045
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    03:58 AM
    Check to see if the sear is dragging on the left hand locking lug of the bolt body. It could be hanging up because of a worn body. Just a wild *** guess.

  7. #5
    Legacy Member eggwelder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Last On
    09-04-2020 @ 07:57 PM
    Location
    Newfoundland
    Posts
    23
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    05:28 AM
    Thread Starter
    thanks for the replies. The rifle has not been fired since at least 1964 when my father bought 3 of them for $15 or $25 for all three. he's not sure what he paid. it was missing a front sight blade so he never used it. I replaced it but have yet to fire it myself. I`ll check that bolt for **** and wear. i don't like to dry fire any of my firearms, especially the older that they are.

  8. #6
    Legacy Member Steve H. in N.Y.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 07:49 PM
    Location
    You get one guess
    Posts
    525
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    03:58 AM
    How far forward is the bolt when it catches?

  9. #7
    Legacy Member Bruce_in_Oz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 03:20 AM
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2,241
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    05:58 PM
    If the bolt is correctly assembled and if you fire the action when the bolt handle is not fully down, it will usually "jump" into half-cock mode, slapping the bolt handle down at the same time. To go to "fire mode", simply pull the cocking piece fully back and carry on.

    This is not a "fault", it is an actual safety feature, intended to prevent firing when not fully locked. In the "half-cocked' state, the tail of the sear SHOULD BE fully engaged in the half-cock notch on the underside of the cocking piece. It takes a LOT of hard use, or a few moments of idiocy to remove / disable the various safety features.

    At one time it was a practice among certain "full-bore" shooters to "remove" the safety stud from the bolt, allegedly to "improve the trigger pull" or somesuch; scary stuff. The safety stud is (or should be) a little square-ish blob in that recess under the rear of the bolt body. If some bozo has "eliminated" it, the bolt is DANGEROUS. Likewise there SHOULD be a smaller, more "rounded" stud on the upper surface of the "tongue" of the cocking piece. This little lump travels around the bolt safety stud as the bolt is operated. It is a very clever system. Not "fool proof"; there is always someone trying for the "Gold Darwin Award" by "improving" mechanical safety systems.

    When the action is fired, with or without ammo, the striker runs forward until the striker collar hits the rear of the bolt-head. As you lift the bolt handle, the striker is cammed back a little, but unlike a Mauser, is not actually cocked, As he bolt body rotates out of battery, it also move rearwards slightly as it rotates on the bolt-head thread AND the small locking lug rides on the primary extraction helix..

    The whole system is designed to keep the striker AWAY from primers unless in full lockup, safety off and finger squeezing the trigger; fewer "own-goals" that way.

  10. The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to Bruce_in_Oz For This Useful Post:


  11. #8
    Legacy Member eggwelder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Last On
    09-04-2020 @ 07:57 PM
    Location
    Newfoundland
    Posts
    23
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    05:28 AM
    Thread Starter
    almost all the way forward. maybe 5/8 inch left to go

  12. #9
    Legacy Member 5thBatt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Last On
    04-06-2024 @ 11:48 PM
    Location
    Zombie Town, now with a H
    Posts
    774
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    07:58 PM
    Not the half cock, he is having problem closing the bolt with the trigger pulled.
    The only thing i can think of that might be happening is the top edge of the bolthead snagging up as it hits the opening at the chamber.

  13. #10
    Legacy Member Alan de Enfield's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 02:48 PM
    Location
    Y Felinheli, Gogledd Cymru
    Posts
    2,533
    Real Name
    Alan De Enfield
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    08:58 AM
    If I have read the symptoms correctly (the bolt catches up and will not slide home unless the bolt gets backed off a hair and then it will slide home) - It could be that the action is worn and the bolt is rattling about (like a sausage in an alley) and lifting / twisting and the bolt head catching on the edge of the breech.
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Piling swivel for a 1915 SMLE No1 Mk3
    By Stephenwfarrell in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 03-07-2020, 11:24 PM
  2. Looking for a bolt for a .22 SMLE 303
    By Whitey_Vic in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-24-2014, 02:04 PM
  3. 1915 LSA MkIII SMLE (No2 MkIV*)
    By 5thBatt in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-06-2012, 12:31 PM
  4. Smle bolt ?
    By boristhepig in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-02-2011, 07:03 AM
  5. Smle 1915 .22 Conversion Firing Pin Needed
    By neal455 in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 01-20-2010, 03:27 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts