+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23

Thread: Winchester P14 stock restoration

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #1
    Legacy Member jonh172's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 05:08 PM
    Posts
    403
    Local Date
    03-19-2024
    Local Time
    12:38 AM

    Winchester P14 stock restoration

    I am restoring a Winchester P14 I got as a sporter and was fortunate enough to find a Winchester stock from a forum member. I have also accumulated all the parts needed to return it to original and am being meticulous in finding only W stamped parts. So far, the only non W stamped parts I have left are the cocking piece, rear sight, buttplate and middle band.

    The stock came stripped of any finish aside from the deeply rooted black stains.

    My plan is to rub the stains with lacquer thinner in hopes of at least lightening them.

    Does anyone have a better technique?

    Once satisfied I will give it a light sanding with 220grit (not touching the cartouches) and stain to match the handguards. Finish with BLOicon and reassemble.

    The rear handguard is W stamped and from what I can tell still carrying its original finish. I stained the front handguard to match and can hopefully match the stock.

    More to come as things progress.

    https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cpSKLh
    https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cpSMka
    https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cpSEH6
    https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cpSlc5
    https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cpSxml
    https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cpSRTI
    Information
    Warning: This is a relatively older thread
    This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.
    Last edited by jonh172; 04-20-2019 at 01:37 AM.

  2. # ADS
    Friends and Sponsors
    Join Date
    October 2006
    Posts
    All Threads
    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #2
    Legacy Member oldfoneguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 05:23 PM
    Location
    long island, ny
    Posts
    558
    Real Name
    Bill
    Local Date
    03-19-2024
    Local Time
    12:38 AM
    Your links aren't working. Without seeing what your working on its hard to make a determination. I always try to avoid petrochemicals on wood as they have an extreme drying effect and can cause splintering.
    I use a heat gun directly on the trouble spots. Do not heat it enough to boil the oil still in the wood. The oil will rise and bring the grime with it. I then wipe clean with cotton flannel or something equally as soft then repeat until as much comes off as I can get. As a side benefit the heat helps raise some of the lighter dings in the wood that fill with oil and grime. Avoid getting heat near the cartouches because it has the same effect on them and they will raise and disappear.
    I avoid using sandpaper if at all possible and prefer to work with steel wool. Generally 3/0 and 4/0 and very light pressure. You are much less likely to cause gouging with steel wool than sandpaper and once you gouge you have to sand more to remove it and the viscous circle begins.
    If you don't have a heat gun a hair dryer can be used it just takes a little longer.
    Also if no heat gun or hairdryer is available steam can be used as well but again without overheating and avoiding the cartouches by safe distance.
    I also use steam to raise deeper remaining dents once clean again avoiding any cartouches or markings which there are no shortage of on Britishicon rifles.
    Good luck, fix your links and keep us posted on your progress.
    Last edited by oldfoneguy; 04-20-2019 at 10:31 AM.

  4. Thank You to oldfoneguy For This Useful Post:


  5. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  6. #3
    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Last On
    01-30-2023 @ 05:49 PM
    Location
    Delaware county, PA just outside Philadelphia.
    Posts
    2,659
    Real Name
    Jeff
    Local Date
    03-19-2024
    Local Time
    12:38 AM
    Oxalic acid aka Wood Bleach is your friend.

  7. #4
    Legacy Member jonh172's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 05:08 PM
    Posts
    403
    Local Date
    03-19-2024
    Local Time
    12:38 AM
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by oldfoneguy View Post
    Your links aren't working. Without seeing what your working on its hard to make a determination. I always try to avoid petrochemicals on wood as they have an extreme drying effect and can cause splintering.
    I use a heat gun directly on the trouble spots. Do not heat it enough to boil the oil still in the wood. The oil will rise and bring the grime with it. I then wipe clean with cotton flannel or something equally as soft then repeat until as much comes off as I can get. As a side benefit the heat helps raise some of the lighter dings in the wood that fill with oil and grime. Avoid getting heat near the cartouches because it has the same effect on them and they will raise and disappear.
    I avoid using sandpaper if at all possible and prefer to work with steel wool. Generally 3/0 and 4/0 and very light pressure. You are much less likely to cause gouging with steel wool than sandpaper and once you gouge you have to sand more to remove it and the viscous circle begins.
    If you don't have a heat gun a hair dryer can be used it just takes a little longer.
    Also if no heat gun or hairdryer is available steam can be used as well but again without overheating and avoiding the cartouches by safe distance.
    I also use steam to raise deeper remaining dents once clean again avoiding any cartouches or markings which there are no shortage of on Britishicon rifles.
    Good luck, fix your links and keep us posted on your progress.
    Thanks for the tips!
    I just finished 3 runs of Circa 1850 stripper followed by boiling water from a kettle then washed with warm water and dawn. I used scotch brite pads and steel wool to apply and wash.
    The stains have lightened but show no signs of disappearing.
    The hot water didnt seem to help so maybe its not oil I'm dealing with?

    My links dont work if copied and pasted?

    ---------- Post added at 12:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by WarPig1976 View Post
    Oxalic acid aka Wood Bleach is your friend.
    Never heard of oxalic acid so did some research... Sounds to good to be true!
    I will be picking some up tomorrow!
    Thank you Warpig!

  8. #5
    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Last On
    01-30-2023 @ 05:49 PM
    Location
    Delaware county, PA just outside Philadelphia.
    Posts
    2,659
    Real Name
    Jeff
    Local Date
    03-19-2024
    Local Time
    12:38 AM
    Oh it's true. If it doesn't remove stains completely they'll at least be lightened significantly. If the first application doesn't get it do another, three at most because then you're just wasting time. let each application dry over night to let the acid do it's work. Once the stock is oiled they can be very hard to detect.
    No need to get all suited up it's a very mild acid. It won't eat your skin or clothes or anything crazy like that, just gloves if wish but eye protection is always a must while using tools and chemicals.

  9. #6
    Legacy Member jonh172's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 05:08 PM
    Posts
    403
    Local Date
    03-19-2024
    Local Time
    12:38 AM
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by WarPig1976 View Post
    Oh it's true. If it doesn't remove stains completely they'll at least be lightened significantly. If the first application doesn't get it do another, three at most because then you're just wasting time. let each application dry over night to let the acid do it's work. Once the stock is oiled they can be very hard to detect.
    No need to get all suited up it's a very mild acid. It won't eat your skin or clothes or anything crazy like that, just gloves if wish but eye protection is always a must while using tools and chemicals.
    I saw some videos of guys dunking their hands in it to show how mild it is!
    Being derived from rhubard I hope it leaves a fresh out of the oven scent!

    Again I very much appreciate the tip!!
    Results to follow.

  10. #7
    Legacy Member jonh172's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 05:08 PM
    Posts
    403
    Local Date
    03-19-2024
    Local Time
    12:38 AM
    Thread Starter
    Double post

  11. #8
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 12:35 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,813
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    03-18-2024
    Local Time
    10:38 PM
    Here are the OPs original pics for posterity and the guys that look here on phones and notebooks...
    Regards, Jim

  12. Thank You to browningautorifle For This Useful Post:


  13. #9
    Legacy Member jonh172's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Last On
    Yesterday @ 05:08 PM
    Posts
    403
    Local Date
    03-19-2024
    Local Time
    12:38 AM
    Thread Starter
    After applying circa furniture stripper, then wiped with acetone, then boiling water poured on it and then washed with warm water and dawn repeated 3 times, the stains are stubbornly hanging in there.

    Progress Progress - Album on Imgur

    (Trying Imgur, hopefully this works)

  14. #10
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 12:35 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,813
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    03-18-2024
    Local Time
    10:38 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by WarPig1976 View Post
    Oxalic acid aka Wood Bleach
    Did you try this though...?
    Regards, Jim

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Arisaka Stock Restoration Advice?
    By Fasdaff in forum The Restorer's Corner
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 12-15-2018, 07:43 AM
  2. Standard Products (SJ) stock restoration
    By nquattr in forum M1/M2 Carbine
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 08-12-2018, 06:57 PM
  3. Winchester stock
    By chopperbobby in forum M1/M2 Carbine
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-09-2017, 08:19 AM
  4. Fox SxS Stock Restoration
    By frankderrico in forum The Restorer's Corner
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-21-2016, 12:42 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Raven Rocks