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  1. #1
    Contributing Member Doco overboard's Avatar
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    No1 MkIII extraction

    I repurposed a bunch of parts into a functioning rifle. Metal, woods, re-finish the whole nine yards. Enjoyed the project and followed instructions/knowledge available on this forum and it shoots accurately with one area left that I would like to improve.

    When shooting from the bench and while retracting the bolt, it seems as if once the bolt is lifted and is being withdrawn about a third of the way till the case is free from the chamber extractor tension increases prior to the spent case being completely cleared from the chamber.

    All this means is that it needs a smart tug to completely withdraw the bolt at which point the empty is tossed clear of the mechanism which in turn causes me to lose the sight picture to some extent. Return to battery is smooth and uneventful.

    Can I adjust the extractor tension somehow? or swap out the parts or just not worry about it-keep shooting and see what happens.

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    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    I think it will be OK and loosen up a bit with use. Did you use a nos original or new manufacture reproduction extractor spring? Some of the "aftermarket" new extractor springs leave a little to be desired IMHO. Always try to find nos originals as I find they always work better. I have them on hand if in need.

    Brian

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    Contributing Member Doco overboard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Dickicon View Post
    I think it will be OK and loosen up a bit with use. Did you use a nos original or new manufacture reproduction extractor spring? Some of the "aftermarket" new extractor springs leave a little to be desired IMHO. Always try to find nos originals as I find they always work better. I have them on hand if in need.

    Brian
    Thanks-Ill keep running it and see if it smooths out. The spring was the same one in the bolt head so I assume it has been in there a long time judging by the amount of crud that came out of there when I cleaned the parts.
    That little spring is pretty strong and snappy for the size of it, I could see a repro giving problems at some point or another,I'm probably better off with what I have now the more I think about it.

    Thanks again.

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    Really Senior Member Daan Kemp's Avatar
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    It might be ejection and not extraction. Check the ejection cycle, it seems that the problem starts when ejection starts.

    On the other hand the LE was designed to be cycled without lifting the cheek from the butt, the stock on your rifle might be too short; slip a boot over it and see if it solves the problem. You should be able to empty a magazine without lifting your cheek off the butt. In any case the LE bolt is supposed to be cycled smartly to clear the empty case.

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    Really Senior Member Sunray's Avatar
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    "...it needs a smart tug..." Because the ejector is the wee screw on the left rear of the receiver. Isn't part of the extractor.
    The extractor spring has nothing to do with ejection either. It's there to provide tension to keep the extractor in place while it passes over/around the case rim.
    "...not worry about it..." Exactly.
    Spelling and Grammar count!

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunray View Post
    The extractor spring has nothing to do with ejection either.
    Wrong again. The extractor spring presses the extractor against the case and drags the casing against the receiver body...causing the rim to contact the ejector in the side of the body. In turn causing the case to be ejected.

    OP knows what he's saying.
    Regards, Jim

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    Contributing Member Doco overboard's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the helpful replies. I ran it some and stripped the bolt head to check it out. What I learned is that there is a small protrusion on the spring that needs to completely pass through the port drilled through the bolt head. This thing is very small and needs to sit just so allowing the spring to actuate correctly. I ran a stone around the edge of the spring to knock off the sharp edge, thoroughly cleaned that *** off put it all back together with much improvement in function.

    Something else I observed is that inside the body on the left wall, the bolt way comes to a vertical point nearly in the middle of the thumb cut out and then seems to have a slightly larger, or so it appears diameter once the bolt is continued rearwards.
    The bolt raceway is also tapered and then again to a larger diameter which helps move the rim of the case to the right and before the screw, ejector which seems to only do a little bit of work. Amazing ingenuity and not a bit of wasted energy, one action begets or starts the next movement in the these rifle types.

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    Contributing Member mmppres's Avatar
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    Well now let see some pictures of this rebuild .

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    Contributing Member Doco overboard's Avatar
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    Doesn't look like much but after I assembled the parts following Capt Laidlericon's articles to the best of my ability plus all the other information gleaned from numerous threads it's pretty repeatable to the 200 yd gong target at the range for as long as you want to pull the trigger.
    I had a bag full of HXP ammo but switched over to a can of the men surplus that was being advertised a while ago that seems to shoot more accurately when I set it up from a rest.

    I'd like to find a way to get a site back closer to the eye, after a while the top of the rear sight starts to get blurry and the notch is pretty course but I see there is another type of rear blade available that I can swap over to it that may help out some.

  16. #10
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doco overboard View Post
    I'd like to find a way to get a site back closer to the eye,
    If you procured an Alf Parker or some such similar, you'll get what you seek. Not quite what you're saying though, I think. But they do work.

    Regards, Jim

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