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Thread: Binoculars Prismatic No.2 Mk.2 - Advice

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  1. #11
    Contributing Member Flying10uk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gil Boyd View Post
    I think from memory these were ship built guns housed along that stretch of the battery wall.
    That would explain why the gun is mounted in a turret.

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    As Gil said, The Guns are Navy ones (150mm) not all the guns were Germanicon though, a lot of captured Frenchicon ones were used the Longues-Sur-Mur were Skoda made ones.
    Great place to visit, I found out where Longues-Sur-Mur sister's command post is, although the author of the book states a name he doesn't disclose the exact place, so a bit of google satellite of the area and I've nailed it, quite a trek from where I was so thats on the cards for next time, For anyone going I would avoid the days before and after D-Day, if there only transport is car, I'll say more when I do a post later, lot of pictures to upload etc.
    Last edited by bigduke6; 06-12-2019 at 05:18 AM.

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    Contributing Member Micheal Doyne's Avatar
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    So they have arrived, and to be honest I am really rather happy with them. However in an ideal world they could be a little clearer, there appears to a some internal dust. But other wise they would appear to be the best binoculars I have to date owned for lack of eye strain and double vision.
    I appreciate from Peter’s comments on another threat that these are not simple to service, and if one where too finding some one experienced is imperative. So would any one know a uk based person who is still servicing these?

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    Legacy Member Charlie303's Avatar
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    They look like very nice binos, especially at £29.99!

    Bound to be a bit of crud on the optics after all this time, but they look better than 99% of the ones I've seen at shows, and generally going for more than £29.99.

    The few black flakes probably a result of the internal black coating breaking down a bit, but nothing much to worry about. Taking them apart to clean them would do more harm than good, unless you can find a real expert. And what might that cost?

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    Mike, I've had quite a few apart but as for servicing only ever cleaned them and replaced lens etc, Charlies correct on the inside paint breaking down, you can go chasing your own tail trying to sort this at time, as in Peters post the smallest bit of dust can look like something a lot bigger.
    Last edited by bigduke6; 06-11-2019 at 01:34 PM.

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    Contributing Member Flying10uk's Avatar
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    I once purchased a pair of bins on eBay that were supposed to be "good" and one side had a thick yellow pee-souper of a mist and the "best side", you could almost make sense of the image that greeted you when you looked through the eyepiece. The vendor was ok about and we resolved the matter between us. Apparently the vendor had forgotten to "check" the optics before listing them.

  9. #17
    Contributing Member Gil Boyd's Avatar
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    Yeh right!!!
    'Tonight my men and I have been through hell and back again, but the look on your faces when we let you out of the hall - we'd do it all again tomorrow.' Major Chris Keeble's words to Goose Green villagers on 29th May 1982 - 2 PARA

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    Contributing Member Micheal Doyne's Avatar
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    So, I now apparently own 6 pairs of No.2 Binoculars ranging mk.1-3. So as they all need work, I’m giving serious thought to having a go my self. Does any one know where I might be able to acquire some drawing or more ideally some maintenance manuals?

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    My advice would verge between tread VERY carefully and don't bother yourself. You will be dealing with sintered cheap aluminium alloy, part threaded radiuses, left hand threads 10BA x 3/32" long grub screws dissimilar materials with (slight) corrosion between the two. If you really do want to have a go, just get a really cheap dirty pair and where you do come across a problem - like one locking grubscrew on top of another - a good little trick played on the unsuspecting - or a thread that's crumbled away then you can learn from it. Likewise, if you have to force a prism out of its housing........ That's just the body of the binos. Then there's the two eye pieces made up of a series of ocular, first and field lenses AND a plate.

    And then stripping one side down again after you've assembled them because the ocular assemblies have magnified a fingerprint you left behind on a prism. Never ever touch the prisms with your bare fingers. Always neoprene gloves and economy paper kitchen towel that doesn't contain chemical additives.

    Never but never ever mix up prisms or lenses between sides nor mix up a front to rear prism or a prism side to side. Always mark the side of the prism with F-R-I for Front, Right side I= inside facing or whatever markings you choose to invent. Or if some other instrument Tech has been there first and put his marking on the prism's or lens edges, then WRITE then down to indicate the exact position

  12. #20
    Contributing Member Micheal Doyne's Avatar
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    Hi Peter,

    As ever thanks for the advice, they sound a fiendish instrument to service. Is the a written record of the methods for servicing these, or where they junked once damaged? I have two pairs of optically dubious quality that cost sub £8, when I have set me self up I will give them a look before attempting any sort of work on my more functional sets.

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