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  1. #1
    Legacy Member Florey55's Avatar
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    My new 1911 BSA SMLE

    All matching, all original (apart from somebody varnishing the stock)

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Legacy Member Florey55's Avatar
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    Now, how would I remove the varnish? It looks as though it's a beautiful piece of wood too. Of what variety I do not know.

    Walnut? Oak? Maple? Cherry?

    It still has it's volley sights and magazine cut-off fitted as well.

    So back to my original question. Varnish removal? I'm not a fan of sanding and I think paint stripper may be too rough. I can just leave it as is, or I can use Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen & Conditioner....
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    Legacy Member 22SqnRAE's Avatar
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    Refinishing a lovely old Lady - properly.

    Interesting rifle, a Hobart based Tasmanian Garrison issue. Lovely. The timber is English walnut, and will be exceptionally tough.

    I'm going to describe my understanding and experience, and not pressure anyone to accept my view. I've restored about 25 rifles of vintages from 1900 to 1950, so I've made a few mistakes and learnt a little on the way. Your choice is entirely your own doing.

    The "varnish" is almost certainly Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Comes off easily with Polystrippa (Australianicon owner, local products). Off to Bunnings, if you wish. Won't harm timber, won't kill anything, provided you're careful and diligent in following manufacturer's instructions. Paintbrush application, and when bubbled, you can use a firm plastic putty/plaster spatula or scraper (Bunnings has several sizes) and use it with the blade at 90 degrees to timber grain. Once the bulk is off, you can then finish off with a well worked green ScotchBrite Scourer to remove all the coating and gelled gunk. Clean up with a lint free cloth wet with turps.

    Once the timber is nice and dry and clean, you then do the BLOicon/Turps 50/50 application. Again, and again until the timber won't absorb any more. Clean the residual oil off with a turps soaked lint free cloth. Allow to dry.

    You now have a standard Service finish, you haven't sanded, haven't abraded, haven't damaged the timber. You have not detracted form the colour and grain of the timber.

    You can leave it there.

    Or....

    You can go one step further and follow what the Yanks do with their Garands. And it's a great idea and very safe and protective. (Well done Garandicon lovers!)

    Melt pure beeswax (Bunnings, paint aisle) and mix 1/3 ratio of wax, BLOicon and Turps. Allow to cool and solidify.

    Wipe the wax on a small portion of the stock, work sequentially through connected areas, small parts at a time. Say, start on the flat right side of the butt. Wipe a liberal amount of wax compound on the timber, completely covering the area to be worked in one go. Follow the grain. Like planing, work with the grain. Work the wax in until it becomes difficult to rag in.

    When done, here's where the sweat, muscle cramp and hard work comes in. Using the heel of your leading hand, work the wax in in long strokes following the grain. You'll feel that the effort increases as the wood "dries" or actually has the wax worked in to the pores. Keep going until you've got a hot and sore pal heel. The temperature of your skin will tell you how things are going. You're melting the wax and filling pores while this is happening, so no stops to cool down. Defeats the purpose.

    Keep working throughout the entire furniture.

    when you can't wax any more, because it won't absorb, that's it. The finish should be a sheen off matt but not gloss.

    This is a natural protective coating that emulates decades of grease and grime that gets built up in Service. It does not damage the timber or the grain, it protects it with natural lubricants from oil, moisture and grit ingress. And looks brilliant.

    So there you have it, an option.

    Others may disagree and I completely accept their choice to do so.

    But as a means of protective, preserving and highlighting the beauty of the timber, I reckon it's the Dick's Guts.

    I've done a couple of late No 4's in Birch and Beech. The outcome is just brilliant. Not flashy, not glossy, but stops water ingress at the range and makes routine maintenance and cleaning a breeze. And it's replicating Service condition, only cleaner. (The waxy glossy look of old rifles is grime, oil and wax build up anyway)

    Your call as to what to do. And as stated before, I'm not trying to force my view on anyone, only sharing what I've learned, done and like. Again, my thanks to the Garand enthusiasts that described the waxing technique.
    Trying to save Service history, one rifle at a time...

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    You've inspired me......I'm off to buy some beeswax tomorrow!

    And the SMLE is a beaut!
    Last edited by Roger Payne; 07-04-2019 at 07:53 AM.

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    I think it looks great as is. Just be sure you have the experience to take on the job. Congratulations on your purchase, beautiful rifle.

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    Beautiful rifle!!!

    Congratulations!!!

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    Legacy Member Florey55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 22SqnRAE View Post
    Interesting rifle, a Hobart based Tasmanian Garrison issue. Lovely. The timber is English walnut, and will be exceptionally tough.

    I'm going to describe my understanding and experience, and not pressure anyone to accept my view. I've restored about 25 rifles of vintages from 1900 to 1950, so I've made a few mistakes and learnt a little on the way. Your choice is entirely your own doing.

    The "varnish" is almost certainly Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Comes off easily with Polystrippa (Australianicon owner, local products). Off to Bunnings, if you wish. Won't harm timber, won't kill anything, provided you're careful and diligent in following manufacturer's instructions. Paintbrush application, and when bubbled, you can use a firm plastic putty/plaster spatula or scraper (Bunnings has several sizes) and use it with the blade at 90 degrees to timber grain. Once the bulk is off, you can then finish off with a well worked green ScotchBrite Scourer to remove all the coating and gelled gunk. Clean up with a lint free cloth wet with turps.

    Once the timber is nice and dry and clean, you then do the BLOicon/Turps 50/50 application. Again, and again until the timber won't absorb any more. Clean the residual oil off with a turps soaked lint free cloth. Allow to dry.

    You now have a standard Service finish, you haven't sanded, haven't abraded, haven't damaged the timber. You have not detracted form the colour and grain of the timber.

    You can leave it there.

    Or....

    You can go one step further and follow what the Yanks do with their Garands. And it's a great idea and very safe and protective. (Well done Garandicon lovers!)

    Melt pure beeswax (Bunnings, paint aisle) and mix 1/3 ratio of wax, BLOicon and Turps. Allow to cool and solidify.

    Wipe the wax on a small portion of the stock, work sequentially through connected areas, small parts at a time. Say, start on the flat right side of the butt. Wipe a liberal amount of wax compound on the timber, completely covering the area to be worked in one go. Follow the grain. Like planing, work with the grain. Work the wax in until it becomes difficult to rag in.

    When done, here's where the sweat, muscle cramp and hard work comes in. Using the heel of your leading hand, work the wax in in long strokes following the grain. You'll feel that the effort increases as the wood "dries" or actually has the wax worked in to the pores. Keep going until you've got a hot and sore pal heel. The temperature of your skin will tell you how things are going. You're melting the wax and filling pores while this is happening, so no stops to cool down. Defeats the purpose.

    Keep working throughout the entire furniture.

    when you can't wax any more, because it won't absorb, that's it. The finish should be a sheen off matt but not gloss.

    This is a natural protective coating that emulates decades of grease and grime that gets built up in Service. It does not damage the timber or the grain, it protects it with natural lubricants from oil, moisture and grit ingress. And looks brilliant.

    So there you have it, an option.

    Others may disagree and I completely accept their choice to do so.

    But as a means of protective, preserving and highlighting the beauty of the timber, I reckon it's the Dick's Guts.

    I've done a couple of late No 4's in Birch and Beech. The outcome is just brilliant. Not flashy, not glossy, but stops water ingress at the range and makes routine maintenance and cleaning a breeze. And it's replicating Service condition, only cleaner. (The waxy glossy look of old rifles is grime, oil and wax build up anyway)

    Your call as to what to do. And as stated before, I'm not trying to force my view on anyone, only sharing what I've learned, done and like. Again, my thanks to the Garand enthusiasts that described the waxing technique.
    Thank you for your very informative reply

    You have given me much food for thought.

    The beeswax option is tempting, but at the same time, daunting.

    Let me muse on this...

    ---------- Post added at 03:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:52 PM ----------

    [QUOTE=Fruler;455107]I think it looks great as is. Just be sure you have the experience to take on the job. Congratulations on your purchase, beautiful rifle.[/QUOT

    Thanks ! It us a lovely rifle and the wood is exceptional. You dont see nice wood like that anymore.

    ---------- Post added at 03:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:53 PM ----------

    [QUOTE=Fruler;455107]I think it looks great as is. Just be sure you have the experience to take on the job. Congratulations on your purchase, beautiful rifle.[/QUOT

    Thanks ! It us a lovely rifle and the wood is exceptional. You dont see nice wood like that anymore.

    ---------- Post added at 03:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:54 PM ----------

    [QUOTE=Fruler;455107]I think it looks great as is. Just be sure you have the experience to take on the job. Congratulations on your purchase, beautiful rifle.[/QUOT

    Thanks ! It us a lovely rifle and the wood is exceptional. You dont see nice wood like that anymore.

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  13. #8
    Legacy Member 22SqnRAE's Avatar
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    Florey55,

    Thanks, just sharing what I've leaned, tried and seen. The motivation is preservation of the rifle in valid condition, while protecting. The timber gets a much better look when waxed, than just oiled. But, as stated, it's your rifle, and I'm not about to tell you what you "have" to do!

    Can share a couple of photos of recent works to show you how it can result, if interested.
    Trying to save Service history, one rifle at a time...

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    Here's a more lazy suggestion:
    Whilst I fully agree with the advice about wax, for such an early rifle the semi-gloss finish it has right now doesn't seem like a major crime.
    And the wood grain really looks nice. The glint of the camera may be making it appear glossier than it is - the finish in the last picture in your series [showing the fore stock] looks absolutely spot-on to me.
    So... you could try rubbing it and buffing it with beeswax [or another microcrystalline wax] to get a finish approaching the effect 22SqnRAE describes, but without doing any of the stripping... anyway, that's what I'd do first of all...

  15. #10
    Legacy Member Florey55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 22SqnRAE View Post
    Florey55,

    Thanks, just sharing what I've leaned, tried and seen. The motivation is preservation of the rifle in valid condition, while protecting. The timber gets a much better look when waxed, than just oiled. But, as stated, it's your rifle, and I'm not about to tell you what you "have" to do!

    Can share a couple of photos of recent works to show you how it can result, if interested.
    Please do. I would live to see them. Now I have a question about linseed oilicon. Why would you use a 50/50 oil and turps mix as opposed to just oil. Or the quick drying linseed oilicon? The one with the drying additives. Im really curious about this.

    ---------- Post added at 03:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:53 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by RobD View Post
    Here's a more lazy suggestion:
    Whilst I fully agree with the advice about wax, for such an early rifle the semi-gloss finish it has right now doesn't seem like a major crime.
    And the wood grain really looks nice. The glint of the camera may be making it appear glossier than it is - the finish in the last picture in your series [showing the fore stock] looks absolutely spot-on to me.
    So... you could try rubbing it and buffing it with beeswax [or another microcrystalline wax] to get a finish approaching the effect 22SqnRAE describes, but without doing any of the stripping... anyway, that's what I'd do first of all...
    Thanks for your input Rod. What you suggested makes a lot of sense. But I would, with the aid of the carpet steamer recently bought to help with rust blueing (have just done my P14), love to get rid of most of the wood dents.
    Last edited by Florey55; 07-05-2019 at 02:13 AM.

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