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  1. #1
    Legacy Member mauserdad's Avatar
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    P14 head space

    I have a Eddystone P14 with a * and a 2 on the receiver. The mismatched bolt that came with the rifle, did not have the * on the handle. I had fired about 50 rds through it with what appears to be no head space issues. I had no extraction issues, the cases had no bulged primers and no discoloration around the case necks. I had stripped the bolt of its internals and extractor. Using my Foster field gauge the bolt closed completely with no resistance. That usually indicates a bad head space. So I bought 2 Eddystone stripped bolts with the * on both of them. Again using my Foster field head space gauge, both stripped bolts closed with no resistance. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to keep buying bolts until I find one that does not close on the Foster field gauge? Also using a black felt pen I colored the locking lugs on these bolts. I worked each bolt 20 times in the receiver. I see no wear on the black marking on any of the bolts. Next I inserted each bolt and closed the handle down all the way. Two of the bolts had a very slight play when pushing the bolt in the closed position forward and back. The third bolt had no play. Also I have done a search on the internet for a Britishicon 303 Milspec field gauge .074. No luck. What is the length of the * left locking lug? Can any one help on any of these issues? Thanks
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    Last edited by mauserdad; 07-16-2019 at 01:02 AM.
    mauserdad
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    Legacy Member mauserdad's Avatar
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    I have just been informed that a Mosin coin style gauge will work. I have one of those.
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    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    You can shim up a Clymer or Forster SAAMI Field gauge. They are .070 and .071 depending on which manufacture. Just shim it to .074 and Bob's your Uncle.

    I steer clear of coin gauges. Too many inconsistent readings over the years.

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    Legacy Member mauserdad's Avatar
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    Thank you Sir. Glad to know I have that option.
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    Legacy Member mauserdad's Avatar
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    Just finished measuring using my Mosin coin Field Gauge. Brian that is all I have at this point. All three bolts passed with flying colors. Before I found out that you could use the Mosin gauge, i was going to make my own. I found that a U.S. coin nickel is the same thickness .074. It is larger in diameter so I would have to reduce that. Would still like to know the length of the left locking lug on a * bolt. Thanks
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    Legacy Member Salt Flat's Avatar
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    According to Charles Stratton's "The Pattern 1914 and U.S. model 1917 Rifles" Pages 57-58. The Variation 1 (MkI) left lug is .625. The Variation 2 (MkI* and MkII) is .10 longer. Salt Flat

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    Legacy Member mauserdad's Avatar
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    Thank you. I am confused on that. I just acquired 2 Eddystone * marked bolts. Both measured at .0633. Am I measuring these wrong? Thanks
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    Legacy Member mauserdad's Avatar
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    Here is a posting where I posted pictures. Thanks
    Head spacing a P14
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    Legacy Member oldfoneguy's Avatar
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    A bolt may not necessarily have to have the asterisk to be correct. The * indicates the bolt was used for a Weedon type referb. Any bolt manufactured after December 1916 which was the change over date will have the longer lug without the *. The asterisk didn't appear until the late 1930's when these rifles were referb'd for WW II. The post 12/16 built rifles became MkI's.

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    Mauserdad-- I am a bit confused with your reference as to the length of the locking lug on the bolt and headspacing. The only concern you should have is in the distance from the face of the bolt to where the rim of cartridge case rests on the barrel. That is the only distance you should concern with. The REAR of the locking lugs and their interface in the receiver is a major factor in your headspace. Obviously this is where a lot of wear takes place especially for a rifle over 100 years old. Replacing a bolt is just not a simple task that it turns out to be. The rear two locking lugs on the bolt should engage both recesses in the receiver at the same time if not then the bolt has to be lagged into the receiver thus creating greater headspace on the front of the bolt. So you see it is not just simply matter of dropping a spare bolt into the rifle. The P14 is notorious for hand fitting of parts even within the same manufacturer. I would recommend taking a black magic marker and coloring the back of the locking lugs on a stripped bolt. Next I use a washer type go headspace gauge and use that to provide tension between the bolt face and rim in the chamber. If you the locks up OK with no play you are good to go so far in this step. Next remove the bolt from the rifle and observe if the rear of the bolt lugs show wear marks where you covered over with the black magic marker, if both lugs show wear marks you are good to go. I have used this technique for check bolt action rifles where the bolts have been switched for whatever reason. I believe i found my .303 Britishicon head space gauges on E-bay.

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