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Thread: SMLE Trigger work and handguard question.

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  1. #21
    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    It's all moot unless you fit the forend correctly with no shimming of cork or cardboard and adjust the front guard screw collar first following Peter's instructions posted here on this site. Then disassemble, reinstall the collar and trigger guard without the wood and take on the fitting of the trigger/sear/cocking piece engagement. It's tedious and time consuming but that's the correct way to do it.

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    Legacy Member Daan Kemp's Avatar
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    Replaced the sear?

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    Legacy Member tsquared82's Avatar
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    I had fiddled with following Laidlericon's instructions regarding the collar but with what I'm seeing, the collar would end up being cut down by half before allowing proper function. I understand what you are all saying. I'll take another look at the fitment of the forend... it's not as bad as I described earlier, I hope. And I'll see to Laidler's directions. I still strongly feel that filing on the trigger nubs will be in order... or other metal in the area. I have another sear, I'll slap that in and see what happens as well. I may disassemble a wall queen enfiled that I have which I know functions and compare the two.

    Question: by shortening the collar if prescribed... the trigger guard screw will have some slop in it after being fully tightened. How could I remedy that?

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    Deceased August 31st, 2020 englishman_ca's Avatar
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    Oh ok, I missunderstood. There is still some bedding to be done and finished up? Let's take a break on the trigger pull until bedded.

    No point in fiddling with the trigger anymore as bedding can move the relative position of the guard. Things will change for better or worse. Who knows? Fettling the bedding might even cure your trigger problem.

    Everything is very much inter-related. Adjusting the action down into the fore end will let the receiver sit down and bottom out in the wood, which might give you the trigger clearance that you need.
    Something simple, such as adjusting the bedding to increase the upwards pressure on the barrel at the muzzle can and will throw trigger pull right off. It is a big cycle, first things first and work through the process. Sometimes the process takes you back to square one or two a number of times, but patience is key.

    IF I were making a stock from scratch for this one and I had this problem with the trigger when stocking up, I would be looking at the trigger guard inlet for giving me issues. Even factory stocks sometimes need a little adjustment here.
    However, I would not worry about that and the trigger pull off until the bedding is rock solid to my satisfaction. Trigger pull off is one of the last things to tune. Follow the sequence.

    But this is a factory fore end, correct? Britishicon? Not repro?

    The action is not a drop in fit in a new stock, not even a factory made one.

    I seem to be the go to guy for Lee Enfields around here. Some locals lads have started to bring me their newly acquired Lee Enfields that they cant keep on a paper target, or their rifle has developed a crack (yes, the 'damned crack' is very common) in the wood. There seems to be a new generation of interested shooters. Bubba is still alive and well.
    The problem is usually because they bought a restored sporter that looks like a pretty, but has badly fitted wood, or not fitted at all. I have also found the wood simply hogged out with a Dremmel in places where the metal touched so that the wood will go on and the bands will fasten up, that's it!. EEEk! for such a case I refer them to somebody who does glass bedding. It is too difficult (but not impossible) to put wood back once removed.
    The best tool for fitting the draws is a sharp chisel and a scraper. The draws can't be fitted well using a Dremmel!

    This is over simplifying, but the entire action pivots on the front trigger guard screw bedding like a teeter totter. You have fat wood to fettle.
    Often I find that it is something so simple as the receiver ring and barrel reinforce fit that wont let the receiver bottom out. These have to be worked in unison with the draws. Check all the inlet corners for binding. Black the action with candle soot and see where it is touching. The draws could be holding the wood up proud and causing you grief.

    For final fitting, I use sharp shaped steel scrapers to shave off wood the tiniest amount at a time.

    As for shortening the trigger screw bushing? If you had to shorten it enough to allow the screw to bottom out, there is something very wrong.
    Last edited by englishman_ca; 08-20-2019 at 02:04 PM.

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