No32 Scope Paint & Screws

[Roger Payne]

I think the pins were there from the word go, though no doubt someone will correct me if I've got it wrong.
I renovate scopes, but only for myself. I don't have the training or the experience of PL & others, so i work on the basis that if I bugger my own up it's bad, but not as bad as if it were to be somebody else's pride & joy entrusted to me. (I'm also in the lucky position of having some tatty scopes to practice on!).

[Scout Sniper]

Thats a nice position to be in, have a play about with a few No32's.

I appreciate your help and im sure are call upon your help again...

Dont suppose you have any of the sliding sun shades at a loose end. I know they were not liked and removed but they do look cool.

[Roger Payne]

I'm afraid I don't have any that aren't needed, but one of our regular UK based forummers did have some truly superb copies made not long back. I don't know if he has any left, but perhaps he'll chime in if he can help....

[Scout Sniper]

That would be good, im happy to buy a reproduction.

Thanks

[Scout Sniper]

Random question...

Why do the lead screw adjuster have a hole in it? Does it go right the way through? Sum have it, sum dont, and sum only have it on one?

[Roger Payne]

Sorry, I'm no doubt being thick, but I don't quite get which part you mean by the 'lead screw adjuster'. The range lead screw screws into the little swinging link that is attached to the grat block. The deflection lead screw screws into the cursor (not sure if that's the official name for it) that moves the entire grat block assembly from side to side. The lead screws are each locked up by the lead screw locking nuts; the two round discs with the thread on the underside & the hole though the middle.

Not sure if that will have helped or confused you......the former, I hope!

[waco16]

I'm afraid I don't have any that aren't needed, but one of our regular UK based forummers did have some truly superb copies made not long back. I don't know if he has any left, but perhaps he'll chime in if he can help....

I struggled to source one for the Mk1 scope on my trilas T, so had a very small batch made around 5 years ago (to have one made just wasn't cost effective). They were exact copies, but a huge amount of work was involved in making them - they were turned out of solid brass bar stock.
As a result they were quite expensive.
I sold the 'spares' out 'on that site,' generally for a lot less than they cost to have made.
It was a typical example of the market value not standing the actual cost.
I have one left (that I was going to keep in case I needed it for another Mk1) that I could let go at a push.
PM me if interested

[Scout Sniper]

Thank you waco16, i have dropped you a PM... Thank you for getting in touch.

Roger... i have added a picture, please excuse the child like arrow, i drew it on my phone with my finger. The part in the centre of the adjustment drum has a small hole in it. In one of your previous pictures you could see the same part from behind and looked like the hole went all the way through it? My initial thought was its a location hole for a live centre to support it while the tread is cut but its odd its not on all of them?

Attachment 103172

[Peter Laidler]

That is a 'centre' used to turn the thread part between centres to accurately ensure concentricity if the thread in relation to the shaft. Just a manufacturers way of doing things that was acceptable and as you said.

Those turret locating pins you spoke of....... Yes..... They are OK if you are simply stripping and reassembling the same scope with the same parts contained within the turret. If not, they are a real pig! You will soon see that on the Mk1 and 2 scopes that the 4 screw heads are smaller than the head cups in the index plate. Thgis is to allow a small, approx .015" fore, rear and side to side movement. This is in order that when you set up the azimuth - or deflection - the lead screw can be set perfectly and EXACTLY in line with the deflection cursor. Even the slightest misalignment and the lead screw WILL bind. This is even MORE critical when the over enthusiastic amateurs over tighten the front shade. Dear o' deary me...... This tightens down on the OG lens which tightens down on the inner tube which houses the deflection cursor which is directed left and right by the lead screw which can't take up ANY slack UNLESS YOU ALLOW IT TO FIND ITS OWN CENTRE via the index plate screws and oversize cups. And if there are locating pins present, you can't. ONLY tighten the front shade until it touches the OG lens then lock up. And ALWAYS make sure that the OG lens is locked against rotation within the inner tube. If not, you'll never achieve optical collimation

So get rid of them, fill the holes with luting, and locate the plate with the screws ONLY.

You find that some Mk3 countersink index plates also have locating pins. Quite why is a mystery that has never been explained. Countersunk screws always find their own centres in countersunk holes by default! And in any case there is a tad more leeway in the Mk3 than with the more expensive-to-produce Mk1's and 2's

There, another bit of useless Enfield information

[Scout Sniper]

Cheers Peter, my suspicions were correct then. The thing that made me doubt it was that sum scopes have it and sum don't. Sum also only have it on one which is even stranger.

Information no matter how small or insignificant is all worth knowing...