I'm going to re-barrel my Ross Mk III

[tiriaq]

"...have read they are 12TPI..." That doesn't mean much. There are Withworth threads(square) and American that are not the same thing. I'm not sure which the Ross used, but it matters. Rumour has it that at one point they used Withworth and left hand threads but switched to American at some point.
So does your smithy having the proper tools to remove and install a Ross barrel. Mostly the correct bushing and, more important, the correct action wrench. A pipe wrench or adjustable wrench is not the correct tool.
There are some guys here who discussed it in 2012/13.
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=41835

Obviously a proper barrel vise and action wrench are required if a barrel is to be removed and replaced on a Mk. III rifle.
Ross Mk. III barrels can be in tight.
Mk. II (except for the II** rifle) have a unique rapid twist modified buttress left hand thread. There is a set screw which locks the barrel in place, properly indexed. Once the set screw is removed, the barrel will unscrew without difficulty, frequently without the use of a barrel vise or action wrench. The barrels were designed to be changed without difficulty.
The Mk. III is different. Its barrel has conventional right handed square threads. I have a Mk. III barrel in the shop. If anyone is interested, I could take measurements of the shank.

[browningautorifle]

to see if that's "available" in .303 brit.

Now I get it, he meant if the LINER was available in the caliber desired. Had to read it again.

If anyone is interested, I could take measurements of the shank.

I too have line drawing of said barrel shanks...could post them.

[tiriaq]

With respect to .30/.303... This is certainly a workable option, which allows a wide variety of excellent bullets to be used.

[Abitnutz]

The barrel came off but it had to be back cut on a lathe...whatever that means. I was warned by those who know that's what would have to be done. So I'll be sending the barrel off to Krieger shortly to be copped and chambered.

I've decided to go with a 303 British with a .308 bore with 5R rifling and 1 in 10 twist. My experience with 5R rifling is that they're easier to clean, and with a 30.5 inch barrel and a guy that hates to clean guns it was a easy decision.

[browningautorifle]

I just turned down the expander ball in the .303 dies and loaded normally. The cases held the bullets fine.

[tiriaq]

I suspect that the shoulder of the barrel was relieved to relax the torque, and make the barrel easier to remove. Mk. III Rosses and P'14/M1917 Enfields have a reputation being challenging to de-barrel.

[Abitnutz]

I've just ordered the custom reamer from Clymer Tool. It'll be the standard 303 British with a .308 bushing. This will create a 30/303 British. Bothe Clymer Tool and Krieger Barrels are just awesome companies to deal with. Incredibly knowledgeable people with unending patience in dealing with an idiot.

[browningautorifle]

Not an idiot, just the first time you've done this.

[22SqnRAE]

[QUOTE=Abitnutz;461237 Incredibly knowledgeable people with unending patience in dealing with an idiot.[/QUOTE]

Hey, Abitnutz, I'd like to follow Jim's acknowledgement and congratulate you on:

1. Your manner of researching first, then asking
2. Your appreciative communication
3. Your listening and consideration of suggestions
4. Your persistence
5. Your considered approach to resolving your situation

You've presented an excellent study on how to get on with others with more knowledge and to demonstrate a genuine learning process. This is rare in the selfish 'me, me, me, now, now, now...' world we live in. I'm really impressed with your story and the journey you've shared.

Thank you. I think you're a model Milsurps member.

I hope others can learn from your example.

[browningautorifle]

Once it's done maybe we can have a look. Also the ammo once loaded and show us how it prints...