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Thread: Hot dunking in Linseed oil? Anyone done it?

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  1. #11
    Contributing Member W5USMC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singer B View Post
    but I also know that linseed oilicon is very expensive (I pay $8 per 2 ounce bottle)
    $8 for 2 ounces is a crazy price. It is much cheaper on amazon.
    https://www.amazon.com/SUNNYSIDE-COR...2884408&sr=8-5

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    Contributing Member Singer B's Avatar
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    Thanks!!! That will save me a on of $$.

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenOC View Post
    I was speaking of the original US contractors/producers.
    Excellent, have a read of this thread then. Lots here to help. 1903 Stock question. - Gun Hub
    Regards, Jim

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    I did this with a Kokolus reproduction M1903 stock and got good results. I would not do this with an original military stock.

    Get a big garbage bag, long enough to hold the entire stock in it. Wrap it tight on the outside with duct tape to reduce the volume inside the bag down. Doesn't hurt to roll up the bag first, as I recall. Support the stock with the open end up, carefully pour RLO until the bag is full, allowing time for air bubbles to escape. Seal it up and leave the stock in there for a good long while to soak the oil--a couple weeks maybe.

    To extract, open the bag and pour out the oil. Most can be recovered for subsequent use. Devise some means for supporting the stock, preferably horizontally, and with some ability to rotate, because that stock will drip for a very long time and benefit from periodic wiping. An M1903 stock is easily supported on a length of 1/2" EMT conduit from the buttrap storage area.

    Eventually it does stop dripping and cure, and subsequent applications of RLO do not immediately disappear into the wood as happens with a raw stock.

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    ROUGH DRAFT

    Quote Originally Posted by tenOC View Post
    Hot dunking in linseed oilicon? Anyone done it?
    Yes, to both questions.
    I highly recommend you try a small scale test. Before jumping in head first with the costs, man hours etc.

    You can heat and submerge in a deep pan using basic description/directions below..
    Or- Make up a PVC tube with glued bottom cap and on top glue a threaded coupler you can screw a cap on. Wrap electric heating tape around the tube and pipe wrap insulation over it to hold heat in. Use heat on a medium setting or lower. You'll be just trying to hold the heated oil temp near steady you poured in before capping it. A old used Heating pad would do the same thing and probably cheaper.
    Pour enough 'OIL' in a used pot and heat on a single electric hot plate to a "Yep that's warm" when touched by a finger.
    You'll need to reduce the 'Oil' I'd use Mineral Spirits..... 20% mineral spirits to 80% 'Oil'.
    Pour about 1/2 of the uncut 'Oil' you'll need in your tube, then add the full 20% mineral spirits in with it.
    Dip a clean stir stick in and dip and stir briefly. Screw the cap on and shake / mix it.
    Pull cap back off and drop in your handguard(s), top it off with the rest of your 'Oil' and tighten.
    Be it heat tape or heating pad.... just keep it at a warm setting.
    Big enough to do 1 or 2 hand guards at a time.

    Ten,
    This is just a simpler plan so you'll see how well the heated oil penetrates, how long they need to be submerged and how much follow up ragging, dripping, draining, wiping, recoating ... etc will follow.
    Keep rags policed and be cautious of overheating a closed container. Don't need a pipe bomb, you can drill a vent hole it the top screwed cap on the edge, even rubber plug it .... just becareful when shaking. Don't shake when wood is in- to keep from beating them together.
    Use electric heat source so you have no open flame.
    Charlie-Painter777

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    Legacy Member INLAND44's Avatar
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    While it can be done, it would be pointless. First, the stocks dipped in hot oil were brand new stocks with a 'distressed' surface from the machining operations which would soak up the hot oil (hot to reduce viscosity for better penetration) quickly and deeply. On a typical used military stock of today, its not going to accept much of the oil since its typically fairly soaked in it already.
    You would have to strip the stock with something like lacquer thinner, which is going to require staining too, then it could take on some RLO or BLOicon cut with turpentine.
    If I saw 5 gallons of linseed oilicon being heated up over a fire or some kind of burner, I would call the fire dep't because there's probably going to be a fire.
    If you want to oil used stocks without stripping them first and you don't want to rub them, you can simply make up some RLO/Turp and slop it on with a brush, then wrapping the stock in a trash bag or cleaner's bag, setting aside for a few weeks. Honestly, this is going to make more of a mess than anything else.
    There's really no substitute for rubbing the oil into the stock with a cloth, then handling the cloth as mentioned above because it will spontaneously combust.
    'Really Senior Member' Especially since I started on the original Culver forum. That had to be about 1998.

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    Thread Starter

    Smile

    Thanks, but I didn't state if they were stripped, sanded or raw. Nor anything about method of heating the oil. But I do always call the fire dept when I see someone deep frying their Turkeyicon.

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