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  1. #1
    Legacy Member Dknight's Avatar
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    SMLE Disassembly, Cleaning, and Conditioning

    Hey guys. I recently acquired a 1918 Lithgowicon SMLE Mk3*. I plan on taking her apart later and scrubbing away some of the grime. My question is, are there any online resources for disassembling a SMLE, cleaning it, and then conditioning the parts before reassembly? I plan on using Simple Green on the metal parts and Murphy’s Oil Soap on the stock. I believe I smell cosmolineicon in the stock. Is that possible? If so, I may want to try to clean some of that off (it was oozing out under the warm sun earlier). Should I spread Vaseline or silicone grease between the barrel and the stock during reassembly? Any advice would be appreciated.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Legacy Member AFJon's Avatar
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    Here's a link to dropbox on the No1 mk3 disassembly and reassembly.

    If you have cosmolineicon in the stock wrap in paper towel, stick in a black trash bag and leave on the dashboard on a sunny day and let the heat do the work for you. use linseed oilicon on the stock to condition it.

    Dropbox - Enfield No. 1 MkIII - Simplify your life
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    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
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    Welcome to Milsurps a simple search on this web top Rt will yield all the info and more from the right people giving it trained and experienced but what ever you do never ever try to remove the butt before taking all the fore wood furniture off first otherwise you will split the bottom wood like the grand canyon and then my friend your in the sh*t...........Enjoy you wont stop at one allot of us here are aflicted with Enfielditis not a bad affliction but.

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    Contributing Member mrclark303's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CINDERS View Post
    Welcome to Milsurps a simple search on this web top Rt will yield all the info and more from the right people giving it trained and experienced but what ever you do never ever try to remove the butt before taking all the fore wood furniture off first otherwise you will split the bottom wood like the grand canyon and then my friend your in the sh*t...........Enjoy you wont stop at one allot of us here are aflicted with Enfielditis not a bad affliction but.
    I concur with Rons sage advice, more Enfield information here than you could digest in a lifetime and some of the most knowledgeable Enfield experts you could hope to meet in residence.

    To add to Rons forend comment, Lithgowicon's are stocked with coachwood that tends to be softer than European/American walnut.

    Add decades of age and use into the equation and the reason for great care in disassembly becomes obvious.

    Never try to remove the forend by pulling/ levering at the muzzle, you need ensure you don't damage the draws, gentle tapping with a rubber wedge or hammer at the top rear (either side) after component disassembly will shift it down and off.

    It might be very tight if it's been in place for years and great care needs to be taken not to cause damage.

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    Legacy Member Homer's Avatar
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    A 1918 Lithgowicon almost certainly would have been stocked with Qld maple originally, although it could be coachwood now. Same rules apply though.

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    Legacy Member Bindi2's Avatar
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    The best tool for removing the forend is a block of wood with a U shaped piece cut out that closely fits over the rear of the action on the furniture that can be hit with a hammer pushing the forend down allowing it to move forward as it moves. This is how the armourers did it, the block was standard in Aussie tool kits.

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    Legacy Member Roy's Avatar
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    Skennertons "Small Arms Identification" booklet on the SMLE is inexpensive and includes the armourers method of disassembly. It also has a history guide and parts identification.
    Keep Calm
    and
    Fix Bayonets

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    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
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    This is the book you need that Roy was talking about give directions begining on Pg 42 onwards plus other very useful information within.
    BDLicon or Brian Dickicon should have some on his shelves they are not expensive and a must have.

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    Thread Starter
    Thanks for all of the great advice!

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