No1 trigger in no1mk3

[pisco]

Has any one done a conversion with changing the trigger assembly I had a bloke tell me it works I tried it and it was bloody heavy has the sear got to be reworked

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[Bruce_in_Oz]

Do you want "slick" racing-spec or Mil Spec?

Is the collar around the front trigger-guard screw present and of nominally correct length?

Is the sear / mag catch spring up to original spec?

Has anyone else "fiddled" with the trigger, cocking-piece, sear or sear spring?

Unclear on what you mean by a "conversion". I have seen the guts of a LOT of "sporterized" and "range tuned" No1 and No4 rifles. It is a bit of a worry to see some of the "improvements" some people made over the years.

If ANY of the "working" surfaces are given more than a light polish, there is a good chance that critical, and I do mean CRITICAL dimensions will have been altered, and NOT for the better. One of the ugliest ones id the practice of "regrinding" the front face of the cocking piece to a different angle to "reduce" trigger pull.

ALL parts in a No1 are made from Carbon steel, variously and sometimes, like the cocking-piece, differentially heat treated to achieve the desired hardness and or TOUGHNESS. Often the "hardness is literally only "skin deep". if you wipe away that few thou of hard skin, not only will you be altering critical dimensions, but exposing "softer" metal to interaction with properly hardened components; for example the thin end of the sear bashing away at the "full-bent" face of the cocking piece, every time the action is cycled.

Fooling around with the dimensions of the two "bumps on the trigger is also not a wise move. A light swipe with a loaded small felt bob in a Dremel will smooth out the remains of the slightly lumpy and spongy "blazed-off " oil used to blacken many small components in the factories. A few. carefully laid, light swipes with a dead-flat, fine diamond tool, as per "Ezi-Lap" "Blue", will smooth (but not butcher) the sear surface that engages the "bumps" on the trigger.

If you lack the tools, experience and/or confidence to play this silly game, seek out a gun-plumber who has all of the above. Some of them contribute to these pages. Raw, unmolested original replacement parts are getting harder to find and quite expensive. Still cheaper than an "accidental discharge" causing damage, bodily harm or death.

Finally, be aware that ALL of these rifles are OLD. Millions of cycles of the action will have worn EVERYTHING in the mechanism. Whilst there are still spare parts, even the odd NEW bolt body out there, once the body is flogged out, nothing will bring it back. A badly worn body will give poor accuracy and erratic performance of the entire trigger and sear system because the bolt will be acting like a frog in a sock.

[Bruce_in_Oz]

In retrospect, did you mean "No4" trigger in a No1?

Never tried that, but have done several fittings of the "groovy" No.1 trigger in No.4 rifles, including No.4 Mk ll types. I just prefer the feel of the No.1 trigger, probably because I grew up with it.

The essential geometry is the same. Same fitting and tuning caveats apply.

[pisco]

Thanks for the reply Bruce it is a no1 trigger and put it in a no1mk3 ,I have only ever had no1 mk3 s and some of the triggers are good some are terrible
I have used a no1 and found the trigger very nice to use and was wondering if it could work in a no1mk3 I fitted the trigger and sear and it was bloody terrible
Any how I put it all back to original after a clean up and used it today
I fully under stand what you are saying about getting parts they are bloody exspesive

[Alan de Enfield]

Bruce it is a no1 trigger and put it in a no1mk3

Which rifle do you actually mean when you say a "No1" ?

Do you actually mean a ShtLE 1 ? (often called a Mk1 and mistakenly a No1 MK1)


Picture from Google :

[muffett.2008]

The early ball and socket are often used to give a single stage trigger, both my Lithgow HT's have this configuration, along with a couple of my Range rifles.
The thing to note is the position of the bent in relation to the sear, you may need to adjust this a bit finer, otherwise you will have a very heavy trigger.

[pisco]

The no1 I am referring to is a shtle no1
Thanks muffet

[muffett.2008]

I knew that Pisco.

[pisco]

Only tinkering around with it as I have the parts on hand

[Alan de Enfield]

The no1 I am referring to is a shtle no1
Thanks muffet

There is no such rifle as the ShtLE No1.

Do you mean the ShtLE 1 (no number and no mk)