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Thread: SMLE No.1 Mk.3* Locking lug surfaces

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    Legacy Member CanadianLanBoy's Avatar
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    SMLE No.1 Mk.3* Locking lug surfaces

    Hello, Im working on remedying a severe headspace issue with my Canadianicon 1918 SMLE. The previous bolt was not matching, produced excessive headspace, and seemed very worn. I recieved an extremely good condition aussie bolt from a bloke online. I am working on getting it fitted to my reciever. The long lug barely engages, and the small lug doesnt engage at all. I understand the next step is to remove meterial from the long lug, until both lugs are evenly bearing, but I dont know of the best way to do this. Jewelers file, fine sandpaper, fine stone? This will be my first time working with locking lugs, so I intend on taking my time, to end with the best result for me and my rifle.
    I appreciate any responses
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Legacy Member Bruce_in_Oz's Avatar
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    Also note that, for MOST No1 rifle production, there was ONE size of bolt-head.

    HOWEVER, there was enough "tolerance" in the production method to functionally produce a small "range" of sizes. The entire thing was classic 19th Century hand-fitted craftsmanship, because simultaneously, the process involved:

    1. Achieving nominal bearing on the right and left locking shoulder and lugs,
    2. Having the bolt-head correctly index to the bolt body,
    3. Having the bolt body and bolt-head assembly achieve headspace spec with the barrel.

    The helical locking shoulders on the body were cut to final dimensions using a hand-driven "shaving tool" running in a special jig that provided the guide for the helix cutter, There was an incredibly expensive, specially-hardened, "master bolt" used to evaluate the location and accuracy of the finished shoulders. There was an "allowance of a whole FOUR thousandths of an inch offset between the shoulders. The tolerances on the locking surfaces of the two lugs on the bolt body were also VERY small.

    Bear in mind that some of this "setting up" of headspace, engagement, etc, involved the firing of proof rounds to aid "seating". Wild times!

    The only "special" bolt-heads of my limited acquaintance are the small run made at Lithgow post WW2. These were analogous to the "numbered" bolt-heads for the No4 rifle and appear to have been intended to keep Australiaicon's fleet of rifles going until the "new" cartridge and self-loading rifle were well in place. I have never actually noted one in the flesh, but have references to them in a couple of slightly fuzzy copies of "issue" maintenance documents.

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    Legacy Member Bruce_in_Oz's Avatar
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    Advisory Panel Surpmil's Avatar
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    The way I would do it, if doing by hand, would be to cut the base off a fired case, find a suitable coil spring to go up inside it, butting against the case neck while pushing back on the bolt head face. Lapping compound on all four surfaces (unless two look "high"), and work the bolt handle up and down allowing the spring to push the lug bearing surfaces together for as much of their travel as possible.

    Anyone who has worked with lapping compounds will know how surfaces look when they start to wear in to each other.

    Slow, and not much fun, but much less likely to screw things up than the alternatives, in less than experienced hands.

    IMHO
    Last edited by Surpmil; 06-25-2020 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Typos
    “There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”

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