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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Yes another Bluing Question

    Has anyone used Brownells Classic Rust Blue? it's a might cheaper than Pilkington (that I use) and Rust Blue American.

    If not, maybe I'll try it on the Ishapore .410 Musket I ordered from Century Arms just to see how it works out. Well that is if I don't Parkerize it though. Could try it on one of the Remington 511's I have too I suppose.
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    Legacy Member RCS's Avatar
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    finish types

    When I was working on my Uberti Colt 1851 conversion to cartridges, I had to make the ejector housing and a plug for the place that the loading lever was located. I figured that cold blue would wear fast and really did not want to send the parts out for a hot blue. I just heated the parts and dropped them in good oil. I did this in 2008 and the finish is still good.

    Photos show the conversion parts and a Conversion next to an original Italianicon 1851Attachment 110555Attachment 110556Attachment 110557Attachment 110558

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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCS View Post
    Photos show the conversion parts and a Conversion next to an original Italianicon 1851
    Nicely done!
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCS View Post
    I just heated the parts and dropped them in good oil. I did this in 2008 and the finish is still good.
    Yes, how hot did you heat them?
    Regards, Jim

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    Legacy Member RCS's Avatar
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    heating parts for oil quenching

    I did not not heat the parts too long and when dropped into the oil there was alot of smoke.

    The ejector housing and loading lever block were low grade steel.

    Also tried the same thing on a M1icon rifle gas trap front sight that I made and the oil quenching also worked out quite well and appears to last for years

  8. Thank You to RCS For This Useful Post:


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    Contributing Member Singer B's Avatar
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    What oil did you use? Sounds like a great process.

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    Legacy Member RCS's Avatar
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    I used a mixture, mostly motor oil and some other oil. I still have some sulphur oil which can work well too

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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCS View Post
    I used a mixture, mostly motor oil and some other oil. I still have some sulphur oil which can work well too
    When I am hardening steel used motor oil is what I use.

    ---------- Post added at 05:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:17 PM ----------

    I'm guessing that no one has tried Brownells Classic Rust Blue since I haven't got an answer to the original question.
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    Legacy Member RCS's Avatar
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    I wanted to check my work area, here is what I have used as a cold blue touch up: Brownells Oxpho_Blue creme formula and
    recommend it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RCS View Post
    I wanted to check my work area, here is what I have used as a cold blue touch up: Brownells Oxpho_Blue creme formula and
    recommend it.
    I was looking at rust blues, but for really small things, minor scratches, Mosin spike bayonets, swivels, and the like, I prefer Van's Instant Blue. Because of how it goes on I'm able to match the exiting blue without issue, I can even bleed it so it blends into troublesome areas. A 4oz bottle lasts me years... wish there were smaller bottles.
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