-
Legacy Member
Epoxied and clamped. Ran a brass rod through the tie plate pin hole a couple timesto ensure it's clear to avoid having to redrill through epoxy. When set I'll lightly flush surfaces for the squeeze out (all gluing hidden when assembled) then place the tie plate and thread in an epoxied brass screw rod. Trick will be getting the "peen" right to flatten both ends neatly flush. Tricky to dolly one end, peen a head into the other side, then repeat. Originals at least had a head on one end.
-
-
10-10-2020 04:45 PM
# ADS
Friends and Sponsors
-
Legacy Member
Sounds like its going well, If you can, perhaps you can create a head on one end of the wire before setting it in the stock. It will be tricky setting the heads as the wire can buckle inside the stock.
Keep Calm
and
Fix Bayonets
-
-
-
Legacy Member
Glue job is SOLID. Now I know what makes airframe adhesive. I mixed way more than needed and let it set up in small cup. Broke it out and for curiosity's sake, gave it a solid whack with a hammer. Not brittle at all. First snag, realized "ears" on tie plate were slightly spread (going back to cause of crack in first place). In trying to gently persuade one back to 90% using a plier, turns out the metal was really brittle. Snapped right off under moderate force. Was holding piece in my hand, not vised. Already ordered two plates with pins but two weeks for arrival. As per your thought, I had thought to use screw wire from Brownell's (have it) but as you say, the risk of bending trying to head both ends after inserting with glue seems high. Using threaded can't really "pre-make" a head as I'd still have to screw it completely flush somehow. Original nos plates and pins coming, we'll go with the NOS approach.
-
-
Legacy Member
How is your forend repair coming along, Have you got some pic for us?
Keep Calm
and
Fix Bayonets
-