+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19

Thread: Stock repair and fitting

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #1
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Last On
    Today @ 11:11 AM
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,517
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    11:33 AM

    Stock repair and fitting

    Stuck at home too much this year is putting a dent in my backlog. Up next is a Gibbs repro 1903a4. The stock has a CMPicon cartouche. The rifle shoots just fine - pretty good as is, ~1.25" at 100yds. But,
    1) Under the front band, the hole for the screw was mis-drilled (even nicked the barrel), and then just opened up to fix it. Now it looks like it was dug out with a spoon.
    Attachment 112279Attachment 112280
    The band is very tight - takes a nylon punch and love taps to get it on and off. However, the required small gap between the top and the barrel is there.
    I have debated on how to clean it up. I've thought about drilling it out, gluing in a dowel, and redialing the hole, or filling it with epoxy, or sawdust+glue like you would any other application.
    2) The stock is fat. The forearm sticks out well proud of the handgaurd, and the barrel bands need driven on/off with nylon love taps. It is also fat in the other direction, the walls of the barrel channel are high. When the action is screwed in, the the handgaurd base ring sits so low that there is stress on the base of the handgaurd.
    Attachment 112281
    The tight fit on the front band (covering the botched hole) is due to the high wall as well. So, if I fix the outside profile, I'll need that screw hole snug as the band is likely to fit normally when I'm done.
    3) lastly, it's fat in it's magazine to action fit - way to big a gap between the magazine and the receiver. The follower easily gets stuck at the top, causing the last round feed difficult if at all, and loading the magazine takes a delicate balancing act.

    I plan to attack one thing at a time - advice for fixing that hole first?
    After that, I'll carefully check the bedding before I start releiving material at the trigger guard to bring the magazine up. Next I'll follow Chucks advice on trimming the tang bushing 1/8" to improve metal-wood contact. Lastly, I'll lightly sand down the outside, and relieve the upper surface of the forearm. Still debating wether to inlet the hand guard for the little clips, but that is mutually exclusive from anything else.
    Information
    Warning: This is a relatively older thread
    This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

  2. # ADS
    Friends and Sponsors
    Join Date
    October 2006
    Location
    Milsurps.Com
    Posts
    All Threads
    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #2
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 11:07 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,838
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    08:33 AM
    Drill and dowel the front hole. Drilling is done very carefully...
    Regards, Jim

  4. Thank You to browningautorifle For This Useful Post:


  5. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  6. #3
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Last On
    Today @ 11:11 AM
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,517
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    11:33 AM
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    Drill and dowel the front hole. Drilling is done very carefully...
    That was my instinct. What worries me is the hole is so close to the top and weirdly shaped. I suppose I can make a jig to clamp the top part of forearm to a fence on my drill press, and go very slowly with a forstner bit to keep it from pulling off-center. The top of the dowel will protrude significantly into the barrel bed area, and have to be inletted. I'm a bit worried getting it nice and smooth without affecting the bedding. I suppose if I can get it close chisels, I can afford a couple thousandths all around smoothing it out with sandpaper. probably good to tape off the area around where the dowel protrudes initially to make it harder to get carried away.
    For quick reference, here is the discussion with chuck's posts about his simple bedding improvement by trimming the tang bushing. I'm not sure what happened to the pictures he showed, but I'm sure his targets looked nice.
    https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=11313
    I'll post back pictures of my progress, and lessons learned along the way.

  7. #4
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 11:07 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,838
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    08:33 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ssgross View Post
    I suppose I can make a jig to clamp the top part of forearm to a fence on my drill press, and go very slowly with a forstner bit to keep it from pulling off-center. The top of the dowel will protrude significantly into the barrel bed area, and have to be inletted. I'm a bit worried getting it nice and smooth without affecting the bedding. I suppose if I can get it close chisels, I can afford a couple thousandths all around smoothing it out with sandpaper. probably good to tape off the area around where the dowel protrudes initially to make it harder to get carried away.
    Yes. Lots of gentle strength and a sharp bit. Only one opportunity to make it right...it'll work fine. I'd clamp the front in my cross slide vise so it's absolutely captive for the operation...
    Regards, Jim

  8. #5
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Last On
    Today @ 11:11 AM
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,517
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    11:33 AM
    Thread Starter
    the buggered hole at it's worst is 0.445, and only 0.232 away from the top. I'll go very slow indeed, and likely sand my dowel to not fit too snuggly, and pressure could split/crack the little bit remaining on the top wall.
    Looks like I'll need to buy a walnut dowel online, and wait to finish my job. I could use oak or poplar, which the big box has, but I'd prefer walnut to maximize my chances of hiding it as much as possible.

    EDIT: While I wait, I decided to check the inletting in the forearm. Wiped some jerrow's inletting black around the whole barrel (a little goes a very long way!), and gently put the action in, followed by handgaurd and bands. No black on any wood except the bedding area pictured below, and a smidge on the front band. I think there is room for improvement there after fixing the hole. that high spot in the right of the pic is causing the other side to contact that little spot on the band.
    I went to double check since I didn't have the action screws in (which would change pressure)...and to my surprise there is no rear bushing! Good thing I've only put maybe 50 rounds through it tops. One is on the way.
    Attachment 112313
    Last edited by ssgross; 11-17-2020 at 05:27 PM.

  9. Thank You to ssgross For This Useful Post:


  10. #6
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 11:07 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,838
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    08:33 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ssgross View Post
    I'll need to buy a walnut dowel
    Originally I thought of just using a plug cutter for that but you need a decent piece of walnut to be donor and getting it to cut and not slit apart while you work could be close to magic...so dowel it is I guess. Yes, walnut dowel. Make blending easier.
    Regards, Jim

  11. #7
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Last On
    Today @ 11:11 AM
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,517
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    11:33 AM
    Thread Starter
    the nose is ~1inch wide, so I would need a 2x2 piece to make a plug. You have a point - using a plug I can cut it cross grain so it matches the grain direction on the stock, as opposed to using a dowel and having the end grain showing, but I don't have a plug cutter that can go 1", so dowel it is. I think is to cut a clean and uniform 1/2" hole, and sand my dowel so that it just barely slips in with little effort, and use plenty of wood glue, or epoxy, to fix it in place. I've never done such a delicate repair up against a delicate edge. Should I worry about future expansion/contraction of the repair splitting the stock?

    UPDATE: Here is the patient, before and after surgery. Only the slightest tearing on the exit wound.
    Should I use wood glue or epoxy on the insert?
    Attachment 112358Attachment 112356Attachment 112357
    Last edited by ssgross; 11-18-2020 at 05:52 PM.

  12. Thank You to ssgross For This Useful Post:


  13. #8
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 11:07 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,838
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    08:33 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ssgross View Post
    Should I worry about future expansion/contraction of the repair splitting the stock?
    I don't think so...other opinions may vary but no one has chipped in so far. Too bad too, there are a few here that have committed magic with utter field trash...

    Final hole looks good and clean. After is a touch of fine paper anyway.
    Regards, Jim

  14. Thank You to browningautorifle For This Useful Post:


  15. #9
    Legacy Member Daan Kemp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Last On
    Today @ 06:54 AM
    Location
    Centurion RSA
    Age
    73
    Posts
    1,392
    Real Name
    Daan Kemp
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    05:33 PM
    That hole looks like an excavation!

  16. #10
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 11:07 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,838
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    08:33 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ssgross View Post
    Should I use wood glue or epoxy on the insert?
    I just saw this question, I would have used Brownell's microbed and that's a two tube epoxy...so I guess it should work. If it's clean a carpenter's glue should work too. It's more of a filler plug not a working area so it's just going to be held in place.
    Regards, Jim

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. GEW 98 stock fitting
    By gsg1981 in forum Mauser Rifles
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-07-2015, 10:40 PM
  2. Fitting an unissued stock on a No.4 MK1
    By ksdaddy in forum The Restorer's Corner
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-12-2013, 09:29 PM
  3. Fitting a New Stock
    By reed12b in forum M1903/1903A3/A4 Springfield Rifle
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 06-29-2010, 02:24 PM
  4. Need a little help fitting My CMP C stock
    By Truman in forum M1903/1903A3/A4 Springfield Rifle
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 05-12-2009, 11:55 PM
  5. Fitting new stock?
    By billy82269 in forum M1 Garand/M14/M1A Rifles
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-05-2009, 10:41 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Raven Rocks