1947 No 5 Mk 1 resurrection attempt (parts needed)

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

This No 5 followed me home recently The least butchered of the two I was offered.
No real need for a heart transplant as all the serial numbered parts save the magazine match. Just a little cosmetic surgery. I thought the barrel had been cut as the crown looks boogered.
I don't think she was fired much as it is quite clean with as nice a set of timber as I have seen.
The previous owner installed Williams sights but most of the the bubba holes should be covered by the upper handguard and flash hider. The missing handguard should be easily replaced with a modified #4. I have a repro flash hider I polished most of the casting marks out of which will do if I cant find an original. I see some rear 800m sights on e-bay etc.. which I fear may be reproductions.
Any advice as to were to obtain an original flash hider and or 800m rear sight would be appreciated.

Information

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[BurtonP]

Ooh, I've been looking for real flash hiders for 3 No5s, without luck. I settled for repros from Numrich after looking for ages. I've even considered welding missing sight protectors and bayonet lugs back on.
The sight should be easy to find, they seem to be more common on Ebay than No4 ladder sights for some reason. I suppose look for stamps on the Ebay versions to indicate repro or not.
If anyone has a small stash of these parts, I'm interested too.
Cheers,
Burton

[browningautorifle]

I thought the barrel had been cut as the crown looks boogered.

I think the muzzle is OK, just messed with. Wouldn't matter so much as the FH covers it all. You may as well go ahead with the fitting of the repro FH as even one you buy as original may be spurious. Sights are available...on open market.

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

I think I used up all my good luck when I found this one for another rifle. It was sitting on a table at a gun show. I almost fainted. Notice properly marked and no pin holes. What are the odds? I think the repros will look a lot better with the casting marks polished out. We shall see.

[browningautorifle]

no pin holes.

From what I understand they were fitted, drilled and pinned in one rush. A new original to me would be void of holes. Yours is even marked to Shirley. You'd need to jig it up so it would stay vertical and aligned while it was drilled. They used taper pins too... Don't know how the new repros will be, I've heard bad things.

[72 usmc]

Libertytreecollectors has some of the parts you need, but boy prices have risen in the last 15 years>
see https://www.libertytreecollectors.co...idCategory=128

On flee bay there is currently a JC aftermarket hand guard from Canada. Only one.

[Bruce_in_Oz]

If the replacement flash-hider is a good fit on the barrel, making it stay put for drilling / reaming the pin holes is straightforward.

Get yourself a small bottle of Loctite 290 (Super Wick-in) It does what it says on the label. It is runny like water. Once the mating surfaced have been thoroughly degreased, (I use Carby cleaner and finish with Acetone or lacquer thinners), get everything lined up and assembled exactly as required.

Apply several drops of 290 to the junction between the barrel and the flash-hider and CAREFULLY place it somewhere to set for the next 24 hours. It actually takes less time than that to set fully, but, why rush it?

If you are cutting NEW holes in the barrel, do NOT use an ordinary twist drill bit to get started. The ideal tool is an end mill of suitably small size, applied to the larger end of the proposed pin hole. Do not even think about doing this job by hand. A rigid machine and a firmly fixed vise are minimum requirements. Once you have the "flat:" successfully machined, change that cutter out for a drill bit a little smaller than the "exit hole on the other side. As for tapered pins, there are Imperial and Metric sizes. Decide what you need and ensure yo have a tapered reamer that matches .

WITHOUT changing the setup of the machine and vise, ream out the hole, initially a little smaller than indicated by a test run with a tapered pin. Pins are usually much longer than required. Once finally fixed, lop the excess (those dinky Dremel cutting wheels are good), and clean up. Gently drive in a pin and then do the other hole. Tiny tapered pins do not need to be bashed in with a sledgehammer, nor do you want to distort the barrel.

In many non-cosmetic, not highly stressed applications, tapered pins can be replaced by nested roll pins, but that's another story.

[breakeyp]

Pin size/taper can be determined by taking a set of number drills and using them on both sides to determine the difference in diameters. A machinist can then cut the taper on a lathe.

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

I've heard bad things.

All true.

[pisco]

I’m actually surprised no one has started making flash hiders with all the Cnc machines