No4 Bolt Advice

[Singer B]

I have a No4 that I obtained a couple of months ago. It is nothing remarkable and based upon past assistance on this site, I know it was made in 1943 and spent time in Turkey. The bolt serial number does not match the receiver serial number. After a few days of work, it cleaned up pretty well. It was definitely uncared for for many years.

The rifle shoots and functions fine except for 2 problems -

1. When pulling the bolt back, it seems to stick at a certain point and requires extra effort to pull all the way back. I have 2 other Enfields (a No 1 and an Ishapore 2A1) and they do not do this. I have tried oil, grease, and functioning the bolt rapidly many times, but it still hangs up in that one position (please see photos).

2. During firing, the bolt will sometimes stick in the down/closed position and will not move upward and back to extract the spent case. Application of significant force is needed to function the bolt. It does this every few rounds but functions properly (other than Problem 1 which is also noticed during use).

I am new to No 4's so any knowledge or advice would be helpful in solving these issues. Thank you!

Information

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[Daan Kemp]

Bolt isn't matched to the action, and binds? Try another bolt and see if it does the same.

Bolt/head too long?

[RobD]

Two different problems, and I'm sure there are many ways of approaching them. Here's my 5c:
- The bolt sticking when moving back and forth: is this the bolt head in its guide that's sticking, or the bolt body? Sort this out by trying the action with the bolt head removed; if still unclear, I'd colour the whole surface of the bolt a felt tip permanent marker in a dark colour e.g. blue, move the bolt in and out several times to get it to stick, and see where the blue has worn off.
-If primary extraction [i.e. lifting the bolt] is too hard this may indicate your chamber is a bit rough or pitted. A peep with a $10 bore scope may confirm this. If so, there are many ways to polish the chamber. One method is to spin in the chamber a fired case smeared with metal polish - see Polishing A Chamber With A Fired Case?
If doing this method, I suggest trim the fired case at neck before using.

[CINDERS]

RobD advice is a good starting point but if its not serialed to the rifle then is the bolt fitted correctly! As they are not plug and play like say a Barnard action think one of the more experienced here said they are a helical lock up with certain points needing to engage equally to be safe. One wonders if the barrel has been replaced by a bubba and the action has been slightly twisted as PL said they twist like spaghetti if you set it up wrong with the incorrect gear. PL also suggested using a slave bolt in the action whilst doing the barrel change I seem to recall.

[Roger Payne]

There is a whole variety of possibilities that I can think of, & I'm not an armourer. One thing I have discovered from bitter experience over the years, & which no one has yet touched on, is that the original bolt is mated to its particular body by careful fitting in the factory & then by proof firing to 'set up' the fit of the bolt lugs in the corresponding locking lug recess/against the resistance shoulder. Just putting in any old replacement bolt is likely to result in a difficult or sticky cycling, especially the initial uplift from the closed position (primary extraction with a cartridge in the chamber). Careful hand fitting by very gentle stoning, &/or the luck to have a plentiful supply of replacement bolt bodies is a big help here. Over the years I have amassed a number of 1941 to 1945 produced BSA Shirley bolt bodies for exactly this reason, for the rebuilding of 4T's. You will likely need to hand fit to some degree regardless, but a bolt from a rifle from the same factory & made the week before, is quite likely to be a lot closer than one made elsewhere years earlier/later.

I would also endorse the above posts about how easy it is to distort a rifle body if attempting to rebarrel it using inappropriate tools.

[Singer B]

I have some time today so I will look into those suggestions. I don't think the barrel has been replaced as there were no markings or indicators that the barrel and receiver had been separated. The wear/patina matches throughout. My thought is that while in the possession of the Turkish army, the bolt was lost and replaced with this bolt. Can I test the fit using the bolt from my No 1?

[Daan Kemp]

It won't fit.

[Singer B]

Would a bolt from a No 5 serve as a good test?

[Alan de Enfield]

Would a bolt from a No 5 serve as a good test?

To test for 'fit' ............... Yes it will fit.
To use it to test firing the rifle ........................... NO, it will not have been adjusted to properly fit your No4

[Singer B]

Thank you sir. I just won an auction for a No 5 and hope to pick it up tomorrow so I will try it when I get home.