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Thread: My 2nd Krag

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  1. #21
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    Pics are misleading. I still haven't given it a scrub yet. Need more hours in the day this summer.



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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Have you tried the varsol and M16icon toothbrush yet? Hard to say what'll liquify and come off.
    Regards, Jim

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  5. #23
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    Have you tried the varsol and M16icon toothbrush yet?
    never heard of Varsol, so no. my go to deep scrubber is mineral spirits and an old toothbrush, dry, then soak in wd-40 for a while for half an hour or so, wipe dry, coat in RIG and rub off excess. I'm still waiting on my loading gate to come in with my furniture, then I will test assemble everything and test for fit and function before soaking in rust remover and lightly sanding the outside with 400 grit. I have some experimenting to do before making a final decision on bluing. Much to do still.

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssgross View Post
    mineral spirits
    Same thing, Varsol is a trade name.
    Regards, Jim

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  8. #25
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    As I said, Dunlap Woodcrafts in Chantilly VA has blanks and semi-insetted Kragicon stocks, and will make me a stock. They can also duplicate a handgaurd, but not the metal clips and rivets. Looking around, partsforantiqueguns.com makes new complete handgaurds. I emailed him to ask if he could supply me with the clips, but he said no. Has anyone made the rivets? I have a chance to have a perfect stock made, with whatever figuring I want or don't want, with a matching handgaurd but I will need to do the rivets and spring clip myself.

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssgross View Post
    I will need to do the rivets and spring clip myself.
    I'd take time and make up a hand rivet set. Look up how to set rivets by hand...I think these are termed "Roll rivets" aren't they?
    Regards, Jim

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    Advisory Panel Parashooter's Avatar
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    Didn't save an interior photo, but here's the outside of a handguard I made from scratch a few years ago. The clips were easily fabricated from steel packing bands, riveted with cut-down common nails. Wasn't terribly difficult and it held securely.



    To expand the small end of the mild steel cut-down nail inside the handguard I fixed a flat-ended punch with nearly the same diameter as the (outside) nail head upright in a bench vise and used this as an anvil, holding the handguard (with nail and clip in place) so the punch-anvil supported the nail head and then peened the small/inside end of the nail with another punch. If you enlist a third hand to hold handguard or operate hammer and punch, it's likely easier - but I managed with just two hands by going slow and ensuring the punch-anvil was in the right position before each tap of the hammer on the inside punch. (Drilling the hole in the clip for a close fit to the nail/rivet shank ensures it won't take much peening to hold well.) Here's a rough sketch -


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  12. #28
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    exactly what I needed! thanks. I have an original for the stockmaker to use as a pattern. what gauge steel do you think your material was?

    I'm cleaning and de-bluing the receiver and parts this weekend. I tested some 1903 bottom metal with evapo-rust and it it seemed to work well. These parts had been refinished by someone with a very thick layer of dark straw collored bluing. The evapo rust turned it into a black, loose velvety slime that then scrubs off easily with brush, fine wire on a dremmel, cloth, etc. It leaves the underlying metal a bit grey in color, but that goes away when scuffing the surface for final prep. The directions on the evapo-rust state that dark-greying is normal on high alloy or high carbon steels as the chelating process pulls the residual carbon out of the rust layer (not from the underlying metal) - the rust is dissolved in the solution but the carbon remains on the surface - this is why the "rust" turned to black velvet in my experiment. The carbon kind of stains the surface metal after its scrubbed away, leaving the greyish color wherever the bluing was removed, There was no color change or darkening on the areas I already sanded and polished. I should take pictures.

  13. #29
    Advisory Panel Parashooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssgross View Post
    what gauge steel do you think your material was?
    Common steel packing bands. Maybe .025" thick?

  14. #30
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    Bluing experiment today.
    I have the black oxide kit from Caswell Plating https://caswellplating.com/black-oxi...-1-25-gal.html. I also have the "Activator" they sell for high carbon or other alloy steels.
    I had some very rusty m1903 bottom metal that I de-rusted with evapo-rust, and sanded and polished the visible areas - floor plate and trigger guard. I then degreased and gave it a go.

    Following the instructions...5 minutes in the activator, rinsed in distilled water, then 5 minutes in the black oxide solution came out matte in spite of the original high polish of the metal. After rinsing in distilled water, I soaked it in their "penetrating sealer" for 20 minutes or so. They say to shake off the excess, then let fully dry before handling. After hanging up and letting the excess drip off, I put the parts in my case dryer on low. The floor plate was already mostly dry, with an even, smooth, matte finish. When they come out of the drier and are safe to handle, I'll give them a burnish with 0000 steel wool and see what I get.
    I also blued a follower this way. Will see how "durable" the finish is when lightly greased and bolt cycling above it a hundred times or so.

    I figured the test was worth a try if it will avoid boiling the barrel in a rain gutter somehow.

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