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  1. #1
    Legacy Member Dpniwa's Avatar
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    Ishapore Project

    I've been working on an Ishapore build for several weeks. I decided to fabricate the front hand guard with some walnut I had left over from another project. Next step is to make all the parts the same color. I was thinking of bleaching and staining. Any other suggestions on how to color match?
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    I can't help you on your color question but your wood shaping looks really nice! I just bought a well-preserved 2A1 and understand how complex the fitting is. Hopefully someone like Rick Bicon will wander along and help you with the coloring. Are you planning to make the stock parts look new or hoping to add a little relic patina?

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    When I have uneven color I use a leather die if it's too light and won't take stain or use the appropriate Watco Danishicon oil stain. You could use two different colors... As for bleaching, I am reluctant to use bleach on walnut or wood work of any kind.
    Regards, Jim

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    Bleach before coloring

    "I was thinking of bleaching and staining..."

    My preferred method, too. With metallic spirit dye you can usually just keep reapplying dye to the lighter wood until you reach the color match you desire. The advantage of bleaching before dye-ing is to be able to add the same "tone" to each stock part which helps match up the coloration after final finishing.

    Best wishes. Dave

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    Contributing Member Singer B's Avatar
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    My only question is did Ishapore 2A's and 2A1's all have matching wood sets? The wood on my all-matching 2A1 doesn't match up in color.

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    I am new to this but have done some research. Some sources have said that Ishapore recycled surplus No. MkIII stocks when they started producing 2As and 2A1s. That would militate for mixed stocks. Of course, HERE on the adjacent Jay Currah Enfield site it shows that there are six places on a Mk.III where the serial number is stamped and one is the fore-end of the stock. Of course, you couldn't put a stock with one serial on a rifle with another. I don't know whether they sanded the serial off or didn't reuse that part or what. That would be a lot of wood to remove. If the Indian manufacturers were anything like the U.S. field armorers the color of the stock components meant little to them when they were putting together a working rifle.

    Bob.
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    Legacy Member Dpniwa's Avatar
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    Thanks for the suggestions. I just ordered some leather dye. We'll see how well I can match the colors. All my wood parts are from different sources. In addition to fabricating the front hand guard I patched the rear handguard. Fore end and butt were in good shape by soaked in oil.

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    I finally got the stock finished. I used leather dye as suggested (Fiebing's). I did not bleach.
    After a little experimenting on pieces of scrap wood I decided on 4 parts Cordovan to 1 part Oxblood, and then diluted the mixture 1:4 with denatured alcohol. Finish is 3 coats of Danishicon oil.

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    Looks pretty good too. The alcohol cuts it enough to let it penetrate and then evaporates...very nice.
    Regards, Jim

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    Wow! Very nice!!

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