Shooting Cast Bullets

[Jonzie]

With the prices of powder and availability I have been thinking about casting some of my
own rifle bullets and using some of the Red Dot that I have plenty of.
I want to try the Lee C-309-150-F and C-309-170 molds, in Lymans Casting Manual
3rd Edition it list Red Dot starting at 11.0 Grains , anyone have any experience with this
load or any advice they can share . Thanks for any help

Information

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[Parashooter]

Take a look at Ed Harris's classic article on using Red Dot in rifles - The Load . . . Is 13 grains of Red Dot

[Jonzie]

I have been doing some reading on them and it seems there is more involved in there use than the Lyman I have used with no issues .
Being the availability of them right now I may just save for the Lyman. With summer in Az. my garage gets 110-120 so I have plenty of time.
I will do a follow up down the road, Thanks again for the help.

[Wineman]

For 100 yard matches I exclusively use cast in my M1903A3. Believe it or not my favorite bullet is the LEE 312-160TL (tumble lube). I size at 0.312" and add a gas check. My go to load is 16 grains of Alliant 2400, but 13 gr of Red Dot (in my case Promo) works too. I have also used 311299, 311284, MX30-196 and Saeco 315. My two keys are a shorter front sight, so I have more room to play on the rear sight, and finding the bullet that "fits" best. Too small a diameter is an exercise in frustration. A short cut is to measure (with a pin gauge if possible) the inside of a fired case neck. Use that diameter as your starting point. Most things sized spring back, case necks, bullets etc. Take that into account when sizing. I shoot for a 0.310" neck ID and the bullet at 0.312". That usually gives me 0.002 to 0.003" of neck "tension". I seat to fit the magazine but as long as possible. With the LEE too deep is never a problem. My go to lube is White Label 45:45:10 Alox, wax, mineral spirits tumble lube no matter which bullet I use, just two thin coats. The other thing to be careful of is that now you have a much slower bullet, so any barrel movement is exaggerated on the target.

Have fun!

Dave

[Jonzie]

Thanks for the help Dave, I have never tried sizing the correct bullet to cast I always went with known info. Your knowledge will be very helpful .

[Racepres]

Don't be a Snob... Learn to use the Lee Mold... may even try reading the Instructions.. I have been using them for Over 30 Years.. and Prefer them!!!
But... They are Not Iron...
BTW... My K98 is an RC so... I do Not know all there is to Know!!!!

[Jonzie]

I will take your advice Racepres besides reading the instructions any tips you can give me

[Wineman]

If I did not mention it, hardness can also be an issue. When shooting in the low to mid teens, you probably want something with a BHN of 12-18. Firm but not hard. Lyman #2 is on the high side, clip on wheel weights (the old kind) or 1:10 tin:lead are on the low side. If you have a hard alloy, you need to give them more of a push. Softer alloys can shoot all day once the barrel is "conditioned". Have fun.

Dave

[Jonzie]

Dave I have a good amount of wheel weights I was thinking of going with them and try dropping in a bucket of cool water from the mold.
Thanks for your help Richard

[Wineman]

That water quench will add 5+ BHN. If you need more speed then the water quench is the way to go but at 1,500 fps you don't need it. I would just let them cool on an old towel. Age for a couple of weeks and shoot some. Liquid Alox diluted 50/50 with mineral spirits (I use about a teaspoon for 100 bullets warmed with a hair dryer). Two coats should be enough. I would melt the WW's separately, flux a couple of times and skim any non metallic crud off the top. If it looks like a metal scum, stir it back in and add more flux (wax, sap, sawdust etc.). When "clean" pour into moulds. I have a cast iron muffin maker from a garage sale. Makes 2# ingots. These I use in my electric pot. Your mileage may vary. If a wheel weight does not melt, it is probably Zinc. Skim it out and toss it!

Dave