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Thread: Picked up an Inland stock at a show today with a cracked stock

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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimb16 View Post
    Never mind. Repairs completed.
    I know what Painter and Frank D would tell me. I've asked them before. Guess Jim isn't going to tell us what he used until he see's if it holds. - Bob

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    If you must know, after degreasing the wood involved. I put gorilla glue in the cracks and clamped it so the glue couldn't expand the cracks as it dried. Then I used a piece of broken glass to carefully scrape the excess glue off the wood before treating with raw linseed.
    When they tell you to behave, they always forget to specify whether to behave well or badly!

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    Wouldn't simple wood glue work? Or would it be too thick to put in the crack?
    "good night Chesty, Wherever You Are"

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    Legacy Member jimb16's Avatar
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    Wood glue doesn't hold well if there is any residual oil in the wood.
    When they tell you to behave, they always forget to specify whether to behave well or badly!

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    Legacy Member jond41403's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimb16 View Post
    Wood glue doesn't hold well if there is any residual oil in the wood.
    Thank you, I did not know that about residual oil which would certainly always be present in used Milsurp rifle stocks of any kind I would imagine.
    "good night Chesty, Wherever You Are"

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    I cleaned and cleaned a flaked out piece near a recoil to repair with Superglue. It didn't hold.
    Idid the same in a couple high wood areas or low wood in the same regioin. They don't hold either. Gorilla Glue or Acraglas would have to work better.
    The Superglue would look okay until you flexed it.
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    In my experience there is no Super in Super Glue. I've heard it was invented to close flesh wounds quickly and without stitches, don't know if that's true. It has two redeeming qualities: it dries very fast and it is light weight. That makes it popular when building RC airplanes and models from balsa wood. From every other standpoint, it sucks. Open a tube, use enough to cover the head of a pin and in a week it is all dried out. It is now sold in tiny tubes which are the cat's meow. It has some utility when working with mechanical watches as it is a substitute for quality Horology craft lathe work and is light enough to not ruin the work of the balance. I suppose it makes a decent thread locker, but Loktite works better. The ads showing a man hanging from his helmet that is glued to something are probably BS as I've easily broken a bond made with the Super stuff. I would imagine that a cracked stock repaired with super glue would work well until it breaks or comes off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimb16 View Post
    If you must know, after degreasing the wood involved. I put gorilla glue in the cracks and clamped it so the glue couldn't expand the cracks as it dried. Then I used a piece of broken glass to carefully scrape the excess glue off the wood before treating with raw linseed.
    I would have used two part epoxy, but I hope that works for you. However I have used a CA glue called "Hot Stuff" for hairline cracks with good success. First cleaning out the oil in the crack with acetone several times and clamping or strapping the piece with surgical tubing. The glue flows into the crack for good adhesion.
    Last edited by eb in oregon; 06-19-2021 at 06:18 PM.
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    Super glue was invented less than 2 mi away from where I live at Eastman chemical company. It was discovered totally by accident. I think they were working or trying to make heat resistant jet canopies and while testing it, they put a sample of it between two slides and ended up ruining a very expensive piece of equipment at the time at Eastman. Later on it was in fact used to treat wounds in combat in Vietnam. This is what I have always been told growing up in school
    "good night Chesty, Wherever You Are"

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    I have had great results with https://www.jbweld.com/product/kwikwood-epoxy-putty-1oz The benefit is "dries to the same density as wood". of course different woods have different densities, but you get the point. My main use case for this has been plugging and re-drilling stripped out butt-plate screw holes. Any run-out is easily shaped by chisel, files, rasp, sandpaper, etc. just like the surrounding wood.
    Last edited by ssgross; 06-21-2021 at 12:42 PM.

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