Stock Finish

[PhilipSpanky]

Okay. I get it. The original M1 Carbine stock finish was Raw linseed oil (RLO). However, the CMP indicates that real Tung Oil is a suitable finish/refinish for the M1 Carbine stock. Is the use of only RLO an attempt to maintain the authenticity of the stock? Or, is real Tung Oil a problem? I find it hard to believe that real Tung Oil will in any way hurt a carbine stock (although I am essentially a novice).

I would appreciate your thoughts on this subject.

(And yes - based upon the CMP site info, I have already used real Tung Oil on a stock - and it looks great).

Thanks in advance for your comments!

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[eb in oregon]

In regards to different oils (RLO, BLO, Tung oil) the finish is essentially the same. The oil's purpose is to permeate the outer surface of the stock to protect it from moisture. It was originally done by dunking the stock in warm oil for a specified time, let the excess drain off, and to allow it to dry. That time period depends on whether air dried or forced drying in an oven. But essentially (regardless of those who claim "expertise) the type of oil is irrelevant as essentially only a chemical analysis could tell the difference. Oil looks different on most any different wood so claiming it looks different because of grain and such isn't much use. Tung oil works as well as any other stock oil so you have done nothing incorrect.

[usabaker]

I find it hard to believe that real Tung Oil will in any way hurt a carbine stock (although I am essentially a novice).

It's not so much the oil that will "hurt" the stock, it's using a chemical finish remover and sandpaper that does that. The oils are different in appearance a raw linseed oil "shine" will be more subdued than Tung or BLO (unless Tung and BLO are made satin with steel wool or rottenstone) and less resistant to the elements unless many coats are put on.

[jimb16]

Tung oil was originally used, but during the war it became very difficult to obtain so RLO was used instead. It was found to be just as good.

[usabaker]

Tung oil was originally used, but during the war it became very difficult to obtain so RLO was used instead. It was found to be just as good.

Hi Jim, This is the second time I have heard this. I have been looking for this reference for a very long time, do you remember where you read it, was it a paper or service manual? In all of the US Military military papers and manuals, I have gone through as far back as the Spanish American War, the only stock oil I could find reference for is RLO. Thanks for the help in advance..

Bill

[Singer B]

While researching replacement finishes for my M39 (I'm still not sure what that original finish should be), I learned that BLO contains an oxidizer which helps it to dry and set up quicker. You rub it in by hand so the heat from you hand and the rubbing friction activates the drying agent. Over time, that oxidizer will reportedly turn an orange color. I went ahead and used it on the M39 since it has a dark colored stock and covered it with a couple coats of homemade Gunny's wax. I personally have never seen this change of color happen but I have only been doing this for a few years.

[eb in oregon]

It's not so much the oil that will "hurt" the stock, it's using a chemical finish remover and sandpaper that does that. The oils are different in appearance a raw linseed oil "shine" will be more subdued than Tung or BLO (unless Tung and BLO are made satin with steel wool or rottenstone) and less resistant to the elements unless many coats are put on.

An oil finish stock (regardless of the oil used) was intended to be applied regularly. It was not and is not a one time deal. The difficulty is that's only done off the front line as trying to do on the line isn't a good idea. Many guys were on the front lines for a considerable period hence many stocks were not re-oiled on a regular basis. I've also found that using a heat lamp is best for an oiled stock. It bakes the oil out and you just wipe it off, though you do have to be careful about getting the lamp too close as it can scorch the stock if too close for too long. Oh, by the way, an oil finish stock using RLO/BLO can be made to look like varnish. But it takes time, numerous coats, and lots of hand buffing.

---------- Post added at 03:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:31 AM ----------

While researching replacement finishes for my M39 (I'm still not sure what that original finish should be), I learned that BLO contains an oxidizer which helps it to dry and set up quicker. You rub it in by hand so the heat from you hand and the rubbing friction activates the drying agent. Over time, that oxidizer will reportedly turn an orange color. I went ahead and used it on the M39 since it has a dark colored stock and covered it with a couple coats of homemade Gunny's wax. I personally have never seen this change of color happen but I have only been doing this for a few years.

I've used BLO for over 40 years and though I don't have all the rifles I've used it on anymore, I've a few that I've had for over 20 years and I've never seen one of those stocks turn orange.

[jimb16]

Tung oil was a preferred oil, but since the majority of it came from the Philippines, it wasn't available after the Japanese took the islands. Tung oil was generally preferred due to the fact that is left a softer non-reflective finish. RLO was used as a preferred alternative because it was less expensive and more available.

[Weaverj]

I don't want to sound ridiculous here, but be careful with linseed oil. It's probably been mentioned before, but it spontaneously combusts.

My neighbor burned his garage down a year and a half ago by throwing rags in his garbage can.

[browningautorifle]

My neighbor burned his garage down a year and a half ago by throwing rags in his garbage can.

We still had separate garbage cans with tight fitting lids into the '70's for the steel wool, clean rags and soiled rags.