Receiver and trigger housing stock clearance differences?

[painter777]

Matt,
Is your stock a IR replacement?

Was hoping the Recoil Plate replacement would have helped. Too bad it didn't.
Your likely looking at having to clear some wood out from where the 3 circular impressions I noted above are located.
It must need some relief, with it showing that much compression.

What do you think? A little at a time? I'd try a Dremel where the drain hole end of the integral housing tube is hitting with a rotary type sanding bit.
And maybe some 80 grit wrapped on a file on the back / where the 2 circular impressions are.
Maybe try some flour or chalk on the wood or metal to pin point the contact area's first.

Just some thoughts......

Safe Weekend,

[Matt_X]

'fraid so. Something about how the mortice was cut as its not quite square, or recoil plate and escutcheon are too far back. Maybe a Win receiver and trigger housing would clear??? But seeing the the cut is angled makes me think the issue is the stock.

Attachment 120843

Attachment 120844


It's a midproduction Winchester stock. The GHD part of the acceptance stamp can still be made out.

A Midway Italian Return Details - The Carbine Collector's Club

[eb in oregon]

Maybe try some flour or chalk on the wood or metal to pin point the contact area's first.

An old trick to make a bedding compound is to mix a little liquid black shoe polish in some vaseline. Smear a light coat on the portion you're trying to bed and insert the assembly. Remove it, where the vaseline is is the place to remove some wood. Repeat until the vaseline doesn't transfer to the stock.

[Matt_X]

Just to wrap this up, shaved it back in both locations so there is a bit of clearance. The receiver fit to the recoil plate is real tight now. We'll see if it leaves a new impression after shooting, but I doubt it will.

[USGI]

The receiver fit to the recoil plate is real tight now.

I'm curious now, if you actually tried the fit of the recoil plate to the receiver when you had it removed from the stock? The reason I'm asking is that my Underwood had a "sloppy" fit at the recoil plate - I tried all my spare recoil plates on the receiver and all were loose, but some not as bad as others. I attempted "tightening" a nice PR-B recoil plate using a CMP suggested method, and broke it in half! I ended up using the same method on a cast Post War recoil plate and was able to get the fit I wanted. This was dealing with the actual fit of the recoil plate to the receiver tang, and had nothing to do with the clearance of the the receiver or TH to the stock, though. - Bob

[painter777]

USGI BOB,
I sent him a different recoil plate. His IR stock has (Had) some messed up inletting. See the pics earlier to see the compressed areas when the action was installed. He's working on relieving this compression and trying to get some barrel hang for this...... His Shooter Carbine.

[USGI]

Charlie, Yep I've been following the thread from the beginning. Didn't think I'd missed anything, but may have. I thought you were confused about the stock, but maybe it's me - did Winchester use some IR stocks? I might be getting this thread confused with another one. It's getting late - I don't know. - Bob

[Matt_X]

Guess I better recap and clarify.
The carbine is a recent Midway Italian return. (I'm the second owner but the first owner made only one possibly two changes; the rear sight, and possibly the sling swivel.)
It's an Underwood with IBM brazed type trigger housing. The stock is a WRA low wood with a revised recoil plate originally from an Inland.

Yes. I did remove and test fit the Inland recoil plate to the receiver.
There was no play, but also no interference. Niether tight nor lose.

Then Charlie sent me an AU recoil plate. Fit of the receiver to AU recoil plate was very slightly snug. Not tight. It would go into place with just a small push.
With the AU recoil plate mounted in the stock, the back of the trigger housing was still contacting the wood stock. I did not notice any real 'hang' of the barrel/receiver at that time.

----->Fastforward to yesterday when I got my basement shop cleaned up and could work on this project again....

First step was remove the recoil plate and cut the woodwork back maybe 1/32". I used a knife, a firmer and mallet, and for the top corner an x-acto curved gouge. This worked for me, but I wouldnt recommend this method except for those already practiced in joyner's work or similar.

Second step was tighten the recoil plate'sfit to the reciever. It's not related to the carving work, except that if I didn't provide the clearance, it wouldn't seat fully.
I understand but prefer not to attempt the hammer method. Someone - somewhere posted that they used a press or vise. I have a BIG machinist vise at the house, so that's what I used - very carefully. I know its possible to break a vise, and its possible to break a recoil plate. Didn't want to do either! The AU plate is the nicer one, so I kept that in reserve and used the other.

To protect the recoil plate I used a scrap of copper sheet. Took a couple tries to get the recoil plate so the flat stayed flat against the one jaw, but once it did, then it was a matter of a few rounds of adding pressure, measuring how much it closed up, remove and check fit on to receiver. When I got an interference fit, I called it done.

The trick when using a press or vise is to just get to the border of the elastic limit of the steel. Can't really see that, so its a matter of feel and for me using calipers to know how much I closed it up in the vise the previous time. - then adding just a little more.

I have some photos, but not of the vise. If you want a pic of that let me know.

[Matt_X]

Suppose now I should explain what I'm doing with this carbine. It was offered for sale with accessories as a "good shooter" and I thought it was worth a shot. If it really was/is I'll use it for CMP type matches instead of my more collectable SG.

After documenting the parts, I swapped the early extractor and firing pin for later types since reliability and safety are more important than preserving this one as the Italians sold it.

I "think" the barrel band is original. The sling swivel was not, although I don't know if it was an Italian substitute or something the previous owne installed and forgot to mention...
That swivel was thin and the inside edge was sharp. It probably would abraid the sling which is not a good thing in my book. The sling it came with looked to be a cobble job - probably good enough for a WW2 reenactor but I think its a fake not a field repair.

The swivel in the photo above is from Northridge and may need some tweaking but is made of the thicker sheet and has no sharp edges. I bought a surplus slighty used D-tip sling to go with it.

[USGI]

Matt, Thanks for the pics and explanation of your work - clears up a lot of questions I had. I've had (2) of those repro slings, one had still had a sticker on it showing it was made in India - got rid of them both.

The main reason for my earlier question was I had the problem with the fit of the recoil plate on my UEF receiver and thought it could be related to them having made a few that were slightly out of specifications. Also, wondering if your 1st "hang" measurement was made after "bumping" the butt of the stock on the floor (while holding the action in place) or before? I haven't seen anyone mention that procedure lately. Thanks! - Bob