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  1. #1
    Legacy Member mnmkeller's Avatar
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    No4 Mk* Restoration Help Needed

    So I have accumulated all the parts need to unsporterize my LongBranch No4 Mk1*. I am ready to assemble it and just keep looking for the few non Longbranch parts I am lacking.

    The last prep work I have to do is drill the holes for the forecap pins and also for the tieplate and rivet as it is called by BRP.

    So my questions here is simple though I fear the answer is not...how do I disassemble this tieplate and rivet?
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    Contributing Member smle addict's Avatar
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    You'll have to take a small grinder or file and grind down one side of that long, tie-plate rivet that runs through the rear of the forend. Depending on the condition of the wood, you may be able drive it out with a slightly under-sized punch. I had to do the same many months back, and spent about 15 minutes tapping on the punch as it slowly pushed the long rivet out the opposite side. Be careful not to hammer too hard, as you could "mushroom" the rivet end, making it harder and harder to remove.

    Good luck!

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  6. #3
    Legacy Member mnmkeller's Avatar
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    Well the good news is that I was able to purchase one which kept me from having to cut the one out of the Sporter stock.

    So I have the part but once I grind off one end how do I secure it after I put it on the new forend,?

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    Contributing Member Doco overboard's Avatar
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    I robbed a tie plate from a sporter stock to build up another.
    Because the rivet was brass and more like a nail, I used a small hardened chisel to make of the end of the rivet using the plate a guide, removed the plate and just grabbed it with a quality pair of needle nose pliers and luckily it pulled right out. It was soft drawn wire or a nail.

    Not having another "nail" of the same diameter handy. It was very small actually and really didn't expect to find that.

    When I reinstalled the plate to the other stock, I drilled the holes to a larger diameter, carefully fit and marked either side taking care to mark the plate for orientation, inlet the stock slightly so the ends of the plate could be slightly forced inwards which grabbed the new brass pin which became very slightly inwards instead of exactly perpendicular to the holes in the plate.

    I annealed the new "pin" with a bench torch to make it soft before installing so I didn't have to pound the heck out of the ends to peen/expand it.
    The inwards tension by moving the tie inwards created just the right amount of tension to secure the pin in the stock at the tie plate as well as the wood from being carefully spotted and drilled making both the pin and plate tight.

    Afterwards I Oxpho blued the plate ends to tidy it up from being worked over a slight bit when I stripped it from the other rifle. Brass black from a RC airplane model shop will dull/age the bright brass ends if you care to, it turned out well for me.

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  9. #5
    Legacy Member mnmkeller's Avatar
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    I was looking at a brass screw I removed from an old door knob the other day and all I could think was...what if I ground the threads off that but I realized it was still too thick to use.

    Fortunately I do have the sporter stock that came with rifle intact and it has a tie plate and rivet so I have two shots to get this right since I bought another tie plate and rivet online.

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