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  1. #1
    Legacy Member CHUCKW's Avatar
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    M1905 Sling Needs Restoration

    Hi all,

    I've got an M1905 sling dated 1919 that is in dire need of restoration (cracked). Can anyone recommend a good leather restorer?
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    Legacy Member CHUCKW's Avatar
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    I should have been more clear, I am looking for a leather restoration expert or shop that can do the work for me. I'm afraid I would make it worse and don't want the cracks to break the sling.

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    Legacy Member CHUCKW's Avatar
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    Can anyone recommend a good leather restoration shop/expert for this job?

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    Need photos

    Hello Chuck,
    I would need to see a few pics before considering. In some cases, the leather is too far gone and is best left alone. So lots of clear close ups of your sling, especially at the folds and cracks. Also pics of the backs of the rivets and stitching. Maybe I can help.

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    Legacy Member CHUCKW's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply Kevorino and sorry for my late reply. I just got done cleaning the sling and applying pure neatsfoot oil to it. I'm going to give this a try myself. I plan on ordering some 1-2mm pigskin and gluing it to the back of the sling to provide strength. I'm working with a leather crafting supply company for ideas. I'll be ordering some contact adhesive used for leather. I may use leather filler paste to fill in cracks. I'll keep you updated on my progress. Thanks again.

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    Legacy Member CHUCKW's Avatar
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    I have completed my sling Conservation (I believe is the proper term). This M1907 sling was very stiff and almost cracked in half so I was looking at a last resort situation to keep it functional. It had no remaining collector's value due to it's condition so I had no reservation about gluing pigskin lining leather to the back to keep in it one piece. For those that maybe in the same predicament, this is what I did.



    Items needed;

    Pigskin lining leather 1-2 mm thick
    Barge cement (contact cement for leather)
    Wallpaper seam roller or other type of roller
    Leather hole punch

    I cleaned both sides of the sling with Lexol leather cleaner.

    I then applied four coats of Pure Neatsfoot Oil to the sling to restore some of its life.

    I went onto the Weaver Leather Supply website (Weaver Leather Supply - Leathercrafting and Leatherworking Supplies
    ) and selected the "chocolate brown" 1/2 pigskin lining leather. This leather will have a smooth side and a "rough" side. Since the leather will be attached to the back (rough) side of the sling, you will be gluing the "smooth" side of the pigskin to the "rough" side of the sling. This will closely replicate the original back of the sling. Weaver Leather has a contact for their "ask and expert" for guidance. I also purchased a can of "Barge" cement.





    I cut a strip the length I need but about 2 inches wider. Place the sling on top of the pigskin leather (back of sling against smooth side of pigskin), centering it side to side leaving the excess on each side. Using a pen, I traced the sling onto the the lining leather. This will act as a refence when applying the cement. Remove the sling and using the included brush, "paint" the cement on the back of the sling and set aside to try for 5-10 minutes. While the sling is drying, apply cement to the smooth side of the pigskin leather ensuring to brush the cement past the traced lines. This will ensure that the sides of the sling are glued to the leather the entire length. Set the leather to the side to dry for 5-10 minutes. When both the sling and leather are dry but tacky to the touch the sling can be placed onto the leather. Using your hand or a rolling pin (I used a wallpaper seam roller) press the two materials together to bond them. Be sure to take your time and be careful as this bod will be permanent. Set the sling aside to bond for 24 hours before use.

    When bond is complete (24 hours) it is time to punch holes through the pigskin leather. Use your leather hole punch to punch your holes in the attached lining leather. My hole punch came with several different sized dies for different sized holes. Find the right size die to match the existing holes. Using the existing holes as a guide, punch the holes in the attached leather.

    That's it. This sling will never be in a museum nor will it be sold at a Sotheby's auction as a great historical find but it is a rescued 100 year old sling that I can use on my '03 and I am pleased with the results.





    Last edited by CHUCKW; 04-25-2022 at 06:20 PM.

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