Bren MKII rescue~

[cal50]

Starting work on my 1943 Inglis MKII Bren.

Nice center section from BRP.
Early MKII with the dual row gas ports on the gas cylinder similar to my MKI.

Winter has to let up sometime!



---------- Post added at 08:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:53 PM ----------

Rear section jigged up , pinned and ready to weld.
This sets the length to factory spec.

Get some good tack welds , remove alignment rail from top then finish welding.












---------- Post added at 08:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 PM ----------

Welding is more fun than painting a couple bedrooms...........
Burned a couple sticks and roughed in. Fresh eyes to hit the low areas I missed.

Information

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[AmEngRifles]

I am happy each time I see an old war horse but back into action. Hate that all the history is turned into so much scrap.

[cal50]

Been a long break since I had play time to work on my MKII.
Long hours at work and home stuff is a lot less fun but pays the bills.

Got around to turning bolt denial pins, machined holes then welded them in place along with the filler welds for the lower frame and carrier denial.

Cooling off on the patio...



---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:35 PM ----------

Grunt work with quality hand files.
Cleaning up welds so the rear section slides fully on the lower frame. If this binds or does not fully fit correctly welding the next section to it will only make it harder to work correctly IMHO.

Mill smooth, bastard and a with a safe edge (does not cut) makes it a simple job. Once both sections slide on the frame I will face them off, measure OAL then correct for the required dimension on the drawing, then weld. Sharpie lets you know what's rubbing , or not.



---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:36 PM ----------

Have sections cut to correct length and ready to weld rear section.....



---------- Post added at 07:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:36 PM ----------

The little details are what makes the build fun.
Selector stop to block the evil FA position.





---------- Post added at 07:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:37 PM ----------

Had some play time and my MKII is now back into a single piece and closer to being back to life.

[browningautorifle]

Laborious and slow but nice work. This will pay off too...

[Flying10uk]

On the areas of the receiver where you have welded it back together, have you found that the weld and the areas around the weld have become harder than areas of the receiver that have not been welded?

[browningautorifle]

that the weld and the areas around the weld

We did this quite a bit here at one time and used to see a difference after refinish, blue or parkerizing. Sometimes it would hide and sometimes it would show darker, whatever that meant.

[cal50]

On the areas of the receiver where you have welded it back together, have you found that the weld and the areas around the weld have become harder than areas of the receiver that have not been welded?

Not on several of the receives I have welded back together.
I use ER70-S3 TIG filler rod and it machines as nice ( a tad nicer) than the original receiver metal. You will still typically get a heat line if you blue or park it finish wise. A hot black oxide finish gives it a 100% coverage if that is the goal.


My Bren MKI double dovetail , minimal heat line in the surrounding metal.

[CINDERS]

I gather the copper in first lot acts as a heat sink to try and combat any affect on the heat treatment of the parent metal, looks good I gather the selector has to be gated for repetitive and not F/A mode.
I envy you, in the US being able to have things like that.
If I lived there I'd be broke as, but I would have a gaggle of F/A's and suppressed weapons and .........! well the list is endless although I don't think I'd need a Tiger tank!

[browningautorifle]

I don't think I'd need a Tiger tank!

You know that's a load of shyte, you'd have one...

the copper

Keeps the weld from sticking to your jig.

[cal50]

The welding jig helps with alignment and the copper inserts soak up extra welding heat and control any puddle flow into the receiver. I made the main area with a copper insert that can be replaced and the aluminum jog body really transfers heat.

Ideally I like to bevel / angle both parts to weld and weld from the root up for 100% weld coverage with no voids. When I have a large gap to fill I build up the edge on both sides until they meet.









Welding against copper backers usually gives a nice weld but sometimes it needs touched up and I use a long nozzle on my TIG torch.