Soaking old stocks in kersoene to remove years of diet, oil, grease, etc.

[1903Collector]

I am looking for constructive comments and informed critique to an old practice used to clean dirty, dusty, greasy, grimy, oil stained, sweat stained and just plain well "used" wood stocks to military long arms up to 150s year old.

Ive been soaking old stocks in kerosene to remove years of dirt, oil, grease, etc. for many years with very good success. Note that my intention is to return the work pieces to bare untreated wood since the original finish is long gone. Some preparation is often required to remove cosmoline and excessive and loose grime. A certain amount of brushing with soft bristle brush is often needed, but Ive noted no bad effects of the wood. There have been no issues with repairs that require glue of any kind and the stocks take staining when used (dont use it unless is was used by the military). I never sand wood stocks and the kerosene soak does not seem to effect the pores of the grain. Once dried the wood often takes on a faded gray tint. When I apply BLO (to all but the Russian Mosin Nagant, which were originally left looking rather dry) the original color of the wood blooms, the color darkens and the effect is remarkable. Ive recovered some nasty looking stocks over the years. I dont try to take out dents, nor make the stock look new, just a hard used rifle well cared for (all things considered) and for the most part, I seem to achieve jut that!

Ive seen a few articles discounting the use of kerosene, but Ive also seen continued accounts of the use of the long disproven application of oven cleaner. Ive even seen accounts of placing stocks in dishwashers (but no comment of the cleaner used).

So what facts, good or bad are available about applicability of kerosene for cleaning old wood stocks? What other methods are considered better or "correct"? Ive got three new projects on stocks over 00 years old each. If there is a better way, Id like to hear of it and consider it for use on these projects.

Information

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[Bruce_in_Oz]

This bloke has a few clues on stock work:





DAYS of educational videos

[1903Collector]

This bloke has a few clues on stock work:





DAYS of educational videos

First off, I want to know what cigar he smokes! Second, I want many of his cool tools. I ordered a Shinto rasp on Amazon as soon as he described it. Third...using files that were never used on metal before! Good advice.
I do a fair amount of wood repair like he showed but I need to be more patient, slower, and will employ some of his techniques.

HOWEVER, I still need advice on the relatively simple cleaning of old wood stocks of any state of repair or disrepair! It just so happens that one of the stocks were of his Majesty King Edward, a 1902 Lee Metford, and the other, an Ishapore No1 MkIII that was in the service of King George, if I am not mistaken. These need cleaning, especially the Metford as it found its way to the states from Ethiopia. The third is a Czar Nickolas M91 that has spiral cracks long the upper stock and a sheared crack almost thru the receiver mount area, but both clean breaks and repairable with prospects of good to very good cosmetic results in my opinion. THAT beings me back to the first step needed. Deep and thorough cleaning. Kersosene, anyone? ;-)

[Woodsy]

What I have done with great success over the years is to go over the stock (stripped of metal parts) with a heat gun to bring the oils and grime to the surface before wiping off with a rag soaked in acetone (available in hardware stores). It may take several applications to get most of it out. A wash with warm soapy water and a clean water rinse, then put aside for 24 hours to dry before rubbing down with OO steel wool. Follow this up with a few well rubbed in coats of Artist's linseed oil over a period of a few days till well dried, then polish with a dry cloth.

[muffett.2008]

The only drawback I see on kerosine, is that it causes metal to rust if not oiled.
Timber absorbs Kerosine, so if some leaches out it may cause problems under the woodline later on.

[1903Collector]

The only drawback I see on kerosine, is that it causes metal to rust if not oiled.
Timber absorbs Kerosine, so if some leaches out it may cause problems under the woodline later on.

I dint mention, but yes, the wood is completely stripped. Perhaps the sun and heat in Dallas is a factor, but Ive not an issue with kerosene being absorbed let alone blooming later. Still, Ive found some posts that discount the use of kerosene and I am looking for technical reasons why. I have wondered if I should use mineral spirits, Simple Green (I do like that idea) or even turpentine, but for some reason kerosene has been my solvent of choice.

[ssgross]

years of diet, oil

Auto correct strikes again!
For what it's worth, the correct solvent to use depends on what is already on the stock and what you want to do. There is chemistry to consider. Different solvents dissolve different chemicals, and some that dissolve a given compound will do so better or worse than another. Some faster or slower too. It is known that petroleum based products will weaken the wood fibers over time because they all will evaporate over time - some products will deteriorate the wood immediately, other petroleum products will take decades to do it. Take a look at old milsurp stocks up around the woodline of the action. The wood is generally softer their than other places further away from lubricated areas.
Was the stock lacquered? lacquer thinner or acetone, the latter will work very fast. be careful. Was it stained? mineral spirits or stronger versions for oil based stains, alcohol for alcohol based stains after removing the upper finish, etc. Turpentine is a basic solvent for linseed oil, but is slow. The "feel" of the stock before you start will tell you if the layers on top were linseed oil, often regularly lightly wiped on during normal care over the years. Some would use CLP, grease, or even Hoppe's for wood during regular maintenance (just because it contains banana oil to make it smell oh so sweet doesn't mean it is the best product). Not a good idea, but needs to be removed with a petroleum solvent. Kerosene works, but is it the best option?
I shy away from arguments of "I use this method all the time because it just works". Every patient is different, and thinking like this will make you get it right and perfect every time.

An old furniture restorer's trick for stains...Make a paste of acetone and chalk dust and cake it onto the wood. It dries fast, dissolves the compounds making the stain, and the chalk sucks it out and locks it in, preventing the wood from re-absorbing it.

EDIT: longterm preservation...read here https://www.nramuseum.org/media/1007...20wicklund.pdf

[Brian Dick]

I've put this out there before. Here it is again. Try Dollar General or Dollar Tree clear ammonia. I learned it from a guy in Florida who specialized in restoring antique rifles when I was a kid. I have a Brownells plastic tub long enough for forends. Soak the wood, let sit a few minutes, then gently sponge and clean with a fine Scotchbrite scrub/sponge pad. Use a soft toothbrush for the inletting, nooks and crannies. Rinse with clear water and dry. Your wood will be ready for glue, patching if necessary or other repairs. Then just treat with raw linseed oil, or stain first if you want. Been doing it that way for 30 years. I work outdoors with it. It's cheap and easy to do and won't hurt a thing. Try it on a handguard or scrap if you don't believe me and see for yourself.

[1903Collector]

I've put this out there before. Here it is again. Try Dollar General or Dollar Tree clear ammonia. I learned it from a guy in Florida who specialized in restoring antique rifles when I was a kid. I have a Brownells plastic tub long enough for forends. Soak the wood, let sit a few minutes, then gently sponge and clean with a fine Scotchbrite scrub/sponge pad. Use a soft toothbrush for the inletting, nooks and crannies. Rinse with clear water and dry. Your wood will be ready for glue, patching if necessary or other repairs. Then just treat with raw linseed oil, or stain first if you want. Been doing it that way for 30 years. I work outdoors with it. It's cheap and easy to do and won't hurt a thing. Try it on a handguard or scrap if you don't believe me and see for yourself.

Ammonia, Ill check it out, but that smell! Kerosene smells properly industrial to me, simple green is, at least to me, a pleasant nostalgic smell Ive never identified, mineral spirits and turpentine, meh. I know smell isnt a practical indicator, but it will just take some getting used to!

Ive got three important projects, but a goodly number of old '03 stocks (S, Scant and C of '03 and A3 configuration) that needs work, so I may have to try a number of these methods. I refer not to apply heat, but all of these suggestions sound worth a test. It should ben noted that the stocks that need cleaning have simply been used, oiled, greased, dragged in dirt, sweat upon, etc. for decades. These are battle hardened military stocks and for the most part made of a decent grade of Walnut.

I thank you all for your input

[limpetmine]

Back in the day (1980's) when good stuff was coming in, I had the guys in back build me a sheet metal box the length of a rifle. Stripped metal would soak in kerosene for a week, get scrubbed and oiled, while the wood rested on the dash of an inoperable car, wrapped in newspaper and a nasty wool blanket. The oil and crud would rise out of it, then a good scrubbing with murphee's oil soap. I'll have to give Brian's method a go.