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Advisory Panel
Importer didn't bother to try matching up the bolts on these rifles? A foolish mistake if so. With a PF one would expect a post-WWII No.4 MkI or possibly Mk2.
“There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”
Edward Bernays, 1928
Much changes, much remains the same.
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11-02-2022 02:02 AM
# ADS
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Legacy Member
Originally Posted by
Surpmil
Importer didn't bother to try matching up the bolts on these rifles? A foolish mistake if so. With a PF one would expect a post-WWII No.4 MkI or possibly Mk2.
That PF number will be from a Mk.2 probably made around late 1952. I've seen PF263301 on a 12/52 dated Mk.2.
Just the thing for putting round holes in square heads.
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Advisory Panel
Yes, we see quite a few of those out here too, but I was reluctant to be more precise than that in case the series was not confined to them.
“There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”
Edward Bernays, 1928
Much changes, much remains the same.
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Legacy Member
be aware that P L has quoted No4 parts were used to repair and keep operational No5s in Malaya.
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Legacy Member
Originally Posted by
Bindi2
be aware that P L has quoted No4 parts were used to repair and keep operational No5s in Malaya.
Totally correct - but he also said that they would be properly installed and numbered to match.
He would not have left a 'used' bolt with a No4 serial number 'sat laughing at us' from a No5 body.
Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...
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Legacy Member
you are very correct AdE. The bolts would have been renumbered even on the No4 bodies to match.
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Contributing Member
Thanks to all of you for the great information that you have provided to me. Just a clarification on the butt stock. The butt stock is the correct stock for this rifle. The dimensions and contours are all correct and so is the metal end cap with a well worn rubber butt pad. Someone in the past has added a lower sling attachment. The vendor has made good on their promise to provide a correct bolt and I will be taking the rifle to my local gunsmith, who specializes in vintage milsurp rifles, to have the bolt properly fitted to the rifle.
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Legacy Member
Originally Posted by
rm31859
I will be taking the rifle to my local gunsmith, who specializes in vintage milsurp rifles, to have the bolt properly fitted to the rifle.
Just be aware that the Lee Enfield is not a 'typical milsurp' and unless your local gunsmith has knowledge and experience of Lee Enfields it'll probably be nothing like anything he has worked on before.
How many other rifles manufacturers have to have the bolt numbered to match the body because they have to be individually hand fitted ?
If you look in the Library under Peter Laidlers posts you will see a series of 'lectures' on fitting up Lee Enfields - there are one of two that cover 'how to fit and instal a breech bolt'
Last edited by Alan de Enfield; 11-04-2022 at 08:46 AM.
Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...
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Contributing Member
Hello all, Sorry to have taken so long to reply. I work 12 hr night shifts. I printed out Peter's articles on fitting the bolt and took it to my gunsmith along with my rifle. He already had this article in his possession and knew all about properly fitting the bolt. I have another question though concerning the buttstock cap screws. I went to remove the buttstock cap to change out the worn buttstock pad and the top screw is unlike a normal wood screw. It is some type of small diameter machine screw with a larger shank. Has anyone seen this type of buttstock cap screw before? thanks
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Advisory Panel
Why replace the original pad? If the "toe" is worn you could invert it. If shooting comfort is the issue a slip-on butt pad will be cheaper, easier and better. The purportedly softer repro pads make very little difference IMHO.
As for undoing the bolt, if you have the original "Chicago bolt" fastening in there, just unscrew a few turns and tap down gently to see if the long shank will move; it might be rusted in. No point trying to force it to rotate with a driver, you'll only b-----g up the slot.
Repeat the undo and tap process until the long shank is about 1/4" out at which point you should be able to pull it out by grabbing the head in soft jaws etc. The threads are fine so too much hammering will ruin them, especially if unscrewed too far. Likewise the counter-bore on the long shank is thin walled, and careless use of a drift/punch will potentially b-----r that up as well; use only a brass one if required.
As for which end of the bolt is which, logically the short end would be uppermost, but you'll only find out when you start to undo them.
My two cents.
“There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”
Edward Bernays, 1928
Much changes, much remains the same.
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Thank You to Surpmil For This Useful Post: