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  1. #1
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    No32 replacement advice

    Firstly, apologies if this is posted in the wrong place.

    I have an original No32 Mk3 scope mounted in one of Roger's brackets on my No4 T. I posted a thread on this a few years ago.

    After some initial help and a little TLC from Peter L, the rifle and scope have peformed faultlessly for a number of years but, after having little opportunity to use it over the pandemic, and taking it to Bisley last weekend, the reticle is not adjusting even though the drums, locking ring and lead screw,on both windage and elevation are moving as before and clicks are tangible.

    I am hoping it is only a minor servicing issue and that a solution for this can be found in the near future.......

    In the interim I am considering buying a reproduction and have narrowed it down to two options:

    1) The Numrich Mk2 repro
    2) The RSM Mk3 repro

    I acknowledge both (in their natural state) seem to have mixed reviews and somewhat erratic performace without undergoing major rework by Warren.

    I am not sure that this would be an option for me being in the UKicon so I would welcome any real world owner/user feedback from members on their experiences with either of these scopes.

    Thanks in advance

    Andy
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    Last edited by OxfordAndy61; 11-04-2022 at 09:48 AM.

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    My advice would be to repair the original and forget the reproductions. Just my two cents!

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    Thanks Brian - that is my intention but easier said than done...at present, I'm not sure there is anyone available in the UKicon to repair or service it. I have spoken to all the people I know and trust and am drawing a blank.

    A reproduction is NOT my first choice but I have to consdier the option

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    I second what Brian has said.
    The repro's are just a stop gap but even a relic 32 is better, as they can be rebuilt.
    I have done a good number of the repro scopes over the last 10 to 15 years and they do not appear to be getting any better.
    The best ones were from Belarus and some that came out of Taiwan at one time, but even they needed extensive reworking and I almost have to break them apart to get inside of them.
    I have made parts only to have them twisted and broken off as most who try and assemble a T just screw the pads to the action and they try and bring the POI in with the adjustments.
    It is just not going to happen without something shearing, snapping or bending.
    The scope, mount and rifle must be fitted together and colimated almost perfect and then use the adjustments to tweak it in.
    Holland and Holland knew what they were doing and had custom equipment for the set up and adjustment of the bases, mounts and scopes. They were the masters of the art.
    Some craftsmen have also been very good at making up a good T but the majority have just made a mess and then blamed the scope.
    I have a few repro reworks out there, that the owner mounted, but the person assembling them understood what to do. Several have endured thousands of rounds and hundreds of miles strapped on the back of an ATV in the Canadianicon wilds. I just rebuilt the scope and they mounted it with the directions they got off here in one of Peters "how to do it" missals. Take your time, understand what has to be done and then DO IT!!!
    ANDY: if you have a chance, just sit and excise the turrets a bit and you might get it working. A GENTLE tap with a plastic mallet might help, but VERY GENTLE
    it sounds like the reticle has just seized up a bit and I know there are a few chaps in the UKicon taking on some work now. I will ask or they might reply here on a PM.
    cheers,
    Warren

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    Thanks Warren. I really appreciate both Brian's and your advice and will gently exercise the drums as suggested

    I would much rather get the original scope repaired - even if I have to sentdit you in Canadaicon. If that is not possible and you can help put me in touch with someone nearer home, that would be very much appreciated.

    My interest in the repro's is only to try to cover all eventualities and my hesitance in rushing down this route in not snobbery, just I've not read anything that indicates them (as yet) being a satisfacrory or guaranteed solution (focus issues, problems holding zero/weak springs, overall build quality etc)
    Last edited by OxfordAndy61; 11-04-2022 at 05:25 PM.

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    A shop that repairs instruments such as theodolites should be able to handle this no problem at all; particularly if you provide them the drawings from Peter's book(s).

    The turret assembly/block is brass so you might try playing a hair drier over that portion and warming it up a bit in case lubricants have gone hard? Would take a while for the heat to migrate through the 1/2" or so of metal so patience will be needed.

    After that perhaps the gentle taps with soft-faced hammer as Warren suggested; and he meant only on the rough-cast areas of the turret, not the drums!
    “There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”

    Edward Bernays, 1928

    Much changes, much remains the same.

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    Andy, I've pm'ed you. You can use gentle warmth to free things up & it may work, but be very careful. Canadaicon Balsam starts to melt at 39 degrees. That's only slightly above body temperature!

    The lenses are held in place within the ocular cell, the erector cell & the OG but I still wouldn't want to push my luck......
    Last edited by Roger Payne; 11-05-2022 at 08:38 AM. Reason: addendum

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    I have to say that I can't remember having a totally jammed up Mk3 that didn't take a LOT of heat to free off. The jammed up turrets usually migrates to the front shade too. To be honest, I just bite the bullet - if you'll excuse the phrase and if it DOES need plenty of heat, then I save myself a lot of time and aggro and dive in. If the lenses separate, that's tough!

    The absolute worst one I ever saw was a month or so ago. Where despite the tales of horror, someone had just would the thumbscrew off.............. taking with it the grubscrew which pretty well destroyed the centre spindle.


    Another point to be aware of all you home DIY'ers is that while we usually had longer grub screws for the turret thumbscrew, we often had the very short ones too (used in the backlash spring cage and tensioner plug). In these cases it wasn't unusual to insert TWO short grub screws. Take the top one out not knowing or ralising that tyee's anotger secondary screw deeper inside

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    Thanks Peter - absolutley NOT a DIY'er when it comes to optics - and especially not when they are 78 years old.

    If anything (as I've said to Roger in PM), I'm guilty of babying this scope and any talk of mallets, dremels or heat gets me a little nervous!

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    Good reading some of this guys, based on the members contributing here, theres a wealth of knowledge. Relatively new to the forum, and due to my location my No 32 won't be out for the next while, any comments on the general maintenance for the scope drums? mine seem to working and free and clear and I would love to keep them that way!

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