Problem with No. 4 Mk1* Trigger

Maybe it's time to just send your rifle to a KNOWN, GOOD, REPUTABLE armourer who can do the job. Here's the straight answer to the quesdtioin in straight talking.....................................

IN answer to your last question............ You CAN have a double stage trigger when the bolt is open and single whan it's closed. But the double stage trigger is purely and hopelessly useless when the bolt is open because you don't FIRE the rifle when the bolt is open. So forget the red herring that you're looking at. You MUST concentrate on the CLOSED bolt scenario and you are only using the LOWER rib of the trigger against the sear. This rib is too proud and as such, the sear is beign pressed down and around this rib. Before the sear gets to the top rib, it's dropped off the face of the cocking piece. You sort out the lower rib as per the detailed instructions and you WILL correct your dodgy pull off

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Originally Posted by limazulu

How can it be more turns with the collar installed then without the collar?

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Because the collar hasn't yet been shortened to suit the wood, hence it needs a trim...

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Originally Posted by tbonesmith

Because the collar hasn't yet been shortened to suit the wood, hence it needs a trim...

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If the collar is longer then the number of turns would be fewer. You can't turn more then the distance to the wood. In my case it was 3/4 of a turn too tall and reducing that amount did absolutely nothing.

---------- Post added at 02:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:55 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Here's the straight answer to the quesdtioin in straight talking.....................................

IN answer to your last question............ You CAN have a double stage trigger when the bolt is open and single whan it's closed. But the double stage trigger is purely and hopelessly useless when the bolt is open because you don't FIRE the rifle when the bolt is open. So forget the red herring that you're looking at. You MUST concentrate on the CLOSED bolt scenario and you are only using the LOWER rib of the trigger against the sear. This rib is too proud and as such, the sear is beign pressed down and around this rib. Before the sear gets to the top rib, it's dropped off the face of the cocking piece. You sort out the lower rib as per the detailed instructions and you WILL correct your dodgy pull off

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Thank you Peter. That answers my question.

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Originally Posted by tbonesmith

Because the collar hasn't yet been shortened to suit the wood, hence it needs a trim...

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Since the collar hasn't been shortened it takes fewer turns to bottom out then more turns. What part of that don't you understand?

Read the instructions again. It says remove the collar and lock washer, then count the turns. This will be the most turns you can get. If the collar is taller you would end up with fewer turns.

In my case I bottomed at 6 3/4 turns and with the collar only 6 turns so I had to shorten the collar. In fact, with closer inspection, who ever worked on the collar didn't true it up. By truing it up I got the right number of turns.

Limazulu ,

me also had the same problem ,

you shoud control ( ONLY CONTROL ! ! ) the contact surfaces ( cocking bent of the sear
and sear ) - may be the angle was changed ( by stoning ) to ligten the trigger ?

the minimal difference of the quote of the trigger guard between the fitting / unfitting forehand ,
(if the angle of the cocking bent of the sear is altered ), may cause the problem

......i solved by the substitution with two new pieces

good look

CC