That's a website warning from your anti virus protection.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
Printable View
That's a website warning from your anti virus protection.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
I received it on another thread I tried replying to on another thread here on this site also...
maybe my computer has a glitch. (Although this reply had no issue.)
he let his certificate expire...yesterday in fact.
Attachment 125411
Ahh, OK, I thought that might have been the case. Hope he intends to continue production since I've paid for an adapter a month ago.
hopefully if I call on the phone and convince him of what a nice guy I am...he'll put me in the queue :).Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
Let me know if he answers the phone....
LOL...you sound like you've already predicted my future.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
His website is back up - I feel a bit of relief over that. Three months more to go for the adapter and shield...maybe less with some luck.
I finally decided to try bending one of the flats with just a hammer and a couple short lengths of steel pipe. It took some time and effort but it didn't turn out too bad.
It needs some final adjustments including the obvious "bow". The left side holes got misaligned when I absentmindedly reversed my template but considering everything else it came out OK ...sort of.
"Dimples" on both sides between holes #7-8 (counted from rear) need to be applied and a final version may be ceracoated or parkerized to match the adapter.
My sincere gratitude to rccathy for his generosity in providing these to experiment with.
That really doesn’t look terrible at all.
I think you get there with a couple more practice attempts.
This is a fun project, for sure. Laser cutting, 3D printing, and other modern manufacturing techniques have a lot of promise to help our hobby!
Yes sir, and thanks to folks that help out along the way really means the most...
Next attempt hopefully will be more sophisticated. I'd like to have the pipe cut in half and use it to make a die of sorts. I'm not sure how soon that will be - I need to locate a shop and band saw that will undertake a small project.
Meantime I'll check in time to to time...
Dick
well done. I knew you would do it fine...now if I could get a bayonet adapter(s), I'd ask Ryan make me some too.
Does anyone know what type rivets are used to attach the shield.... brass or steel...?
For all the world, I thought they were electro spot welded? Permanent fixture...Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
You may be correct. I thought I'd seen some that were riveted but they may have been repros...
I realized how easy it could be to roll the rear edge and add the two dimples so I couldn't resist giving it a shot. A ball peen hammer and the steel pipe easily rolled the rear edge. I learned something else in the process and I'm really pleased with how finished it looks.
A 5/16" hole was drilled into a piece of PVC pipe to capture the dimple as it was pounded in with a drift punch that was ground flat and filed round.
Some Perma Blue was applied and I was surprised how quickly and extremely well the metal accepted it and reacted.
The bow in the shield bothers me but there must be way to deal with it somehow. This is just trial piece anyway so hopefully the next one will be a more improved model.
Best
The drawing’s done and filed. I’d be happy to send it to anyone that wants it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgross
The laser cutter, SendCutSend, is super easy to order from.
---------- Post added at 06:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:48 AM ----------
You should be! A couple more tweaks and you’re there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
I’m impressed!
Really only thanks to your interest and generosity has this been anything at all. It's been interesting and a good learning experience for me and I'm looking forward to doing some refining when I can get to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by rcathey
Dick
Only thanks to your interest and generosity could it have gotten anywhere at this point. It was a bit intimidating for me to start on it without more tools but as it turns out I had all that was needed and has been a satisfying learning experience. It reminded of my dad working in his basement shop most nights after work years ago. I think I must have inherited that part of his DNA.Quote:
Originally Posted by rcathey
I'm treating this first piece as a trial and look forward to some refining on the next one. As a note I think the one longer flat may be a more correct length but I want to see how the next short piece turns out first.
Dick
Finally got together with a friend early this afternoon to rout a groove in a 2x6. The idea is to press a 1" pipe down onto the flat that will be held centered with some nails both sides or whatever. Next step is to visit another friend with an hydraulic press and force the pipe down over the flat into the basic shape needed for the heat shield.
Additional final fitting probably will be required plus the rear of the shield end will need the rounded edge.
Not sure when I'll get to the next step of using the press but will get back with results sometime soon. If the second one turns out as good as expected the third, and slightly longer flat will be shaped at the same time.
Dick
That might do it...
Just a brief update on the heat shields once again - the opportunity to get back to the project has to wait on a couple other priorities but I'm looking forward to getting back to it soon as possible. I have a yard sale coming up next week and and some VA appointments to deal with but soon as that stuff is out of the way I''l get back on it.
Stay tuned - :thup:
Madcap
No opportunity to get back to the flat shield project yet...soon as some things settle down I'll get back to it...just wanted to let everyone interested to know I haven't forgotten about it.
Thanks,
Dick :)
My initial order from Parts for Antique Guns or Ease Taylor arrived today after waiting the requested 16 weeks "IN ORDER TO MAINTAIN QUALITY." It's beyond my comprehension how anyone with any honest self respect or pride could betray customer trust like this. If this is an example of his work I'm extremely disappointed. It literally looks like it came for some back alley shop in Pakistan - not even China.
The heat here and some medical considerations have left me stifled on further work on the flats. However I promise to get back to them soon as I possibly can. If "Parts for Antique Guns" won't offer a refund I'll remove his hand shield and attach it to my original adapter. His adapter is junk.
Over and Out
Sad, I was one that recommended his parts before. I had a set here that looked good but wouldn't fit anything but the correct diameter barrel. Sad...disappointing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
You don't suppose you ended up with a return from a user do you? Tried to fit but couldn't so returned it?
The photos don't actually show how ugly the work really is. It's is so bad it's difficult to think he expects to be paid money for it. I don't like having to mention it but the only explanation I can think of is he must be an older man possibly suffering dementia and eye problems. In any case the disappointment is pretty overwhelming and I've decided to call tomorrow and return it for a refund. I also ordered one for a model '97 as well a few days following this order.
Probably best then, hope the other one is better. This isn't what I expected.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
I emailed him yesterday cancelling the '97 order and he replied that is was cancelled and the amount refunded. After considering the painful reality of the M12 that was received I emailed him that it needs to be returned for refund also. This is such an unfortunate disappointment both sides but that's the way things are these days I guess. but can't quite understand what might have happened in his shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
Anyway I'll continue ahead with the last couple flats whenever I can and post the results.
All be safe,
Dick
my 97 adapter and heat shield should come in next month. I'm surprised at your experience. Being the only person making these parts, I'd think there would be an attempt to keep the market cornered. I was also surprised that there were no Chinese knockoffs on the market yet.
Maybe he was in a hurry to clear his backlog? Is it close enough that you could finish it with some handy file work? I've run in to this before, where repro parts are only 90% finished. threads need deburred, that kind of thing. Normally I'd complain, but if its the only available replacement, I suck it up, pay my fee, and pour in the sweat equity to finish it correctly.
Sorry your mount was bad. My M12 was substandard also but East Taylor is the only guy building them. I was more concerned on the correct diameter for my barrel which was dead on. My unit had a run out so that the bayonet pointed to the side. Attachment 127743
I admit to being critical and for expecting reasonably good work. I try to take most projects pretty seriously but appreciate not everyone shares that same intention. However there should have been no excuse for allowing that work to leave the shop. My bayonet wouldn't possibly fit onto that lug without corrective filing and by then any corrections to it would have caused the bayonet to be completely loose. In truth I expected he had the tooling that machined the parts to proper specs. Apparently that can not be the case. Even that being the case, proper hand filing could still have provided the correct fit and finish.
Less than perfect products have to be expected sometimes especially these days. In this case I'm still in shock over the catastrophic results waiting over 16 weeks provided.
Supposedly cancellation was approved refunding the M97 adapter order and I notified him the return of the M12, sent yesterday hoping he'll refund that amount also.
As a comparison a SARCO repro example that was formerly sold on GUNSAMERICA is attached. The lug clearly appears more usable. Too bad they're nit available.
Sadly, more and more common; unrecognized strokes? Even before Covid I knew several machinists who were real craftsmen, but whose work suddenly went to pot - and worst of all, they were clearly unable to tell that it had!Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
I never could have expected how difficult this would process would have been. I'll continue to follow up forming a handguard from the the flat stock rcathey generously provided. The first chance I can get to my friend's shop and use his hydraulic press I'll post results. They've been dealing with a pretty serious wild fire where he's located out in the country for the last few days and he's one of the fireman involved.
Anyway I'm inspired to get this over with.
Madcap
I finally got out to work on the last two flats this afternoon with use of a hydraulic press. The temp was couple degrees cooler today so wasn't too oppressive. The first attempt was only practice getting everything set up since I over stressed one of the two dimples on that flat before working n it t the house. The second attempt and the longer of the three total flats was turned out perfectly. All remains is the two dimples and attaching it to my M12 original adapter.
Photos will be posted hopefully by next week.
Thanks to all for hanging around and waiting this process out.
Madcap
Does it feel stiff/sturdy enough now that it’s bent?
Hello rc - yes, It appears perfect so far. I think it'll work. I still need to add the two dimples or whatever they're called and match drill holes to the adapter. After that take it to a local shop and have it welded or silver soldered to the adapter. I'm not certain yet how they did it originally.
I'll check back in soon as possible with the results maybe next week. At any rate thanks to you this project looks very successful.
just thinking out loud - you need a form, and a rounded punch to get it perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00819DRNE
I bought these when making and attaching clips+rivets to new krag handgaurds.
For a form, you could make your own - drill a hole in a block of hardwood or aluminum, and carefully round over the edge of the hole with a needle file, chamfer tool, whatever works.
Or, maybe a round rivet-set form would work too?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QWE5PR6
repro adapter and shield auction now. expensive.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/942452529
And appears to have been thrashed once. Typical.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgross
After studying a few original examples I'm pretty confident they were riveted. What I'm not sure of is if they were also silver soldered and the heads dressed down because the edge appear too uniform..
Some good pictures of what is hopefully an original here
https://www.gunsinternational.com/gu...n_id=100668926
I thought you were talking about making the standoff "dimples", like you see here
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...A5168JPG-1.jpg
Attachments to the bayonet adapter in the above look like obvious flush rivets. Lots of other pics they look like tac welds. Makes me wonder if they used different means between beginning and end production.
Winchester did rivet the heat shield to the adaptor. They then filed the rivets down. If you look at a WWI 1897 heat shield you can't see the rivets on an original condition gun. On the WWII Model 97 and Model 12 trench guns you can see the rivets. They apparently did not take the time and effort to file and smooth the rivets down like they did on the WWI guns. I could show you photos of the difference, but I don't know how to post photos on this webste.
Click the "Go Advanced" button when drafting your reply, then there is a paper-clip attachment icon that will allow you to upload photos. There is also a sticky-thread in each forum with instructions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Doniphon
I would be very interested to see your photos here, as well as some for your informative response to my 1897 buttplates question (sorry MadCap for plugging my project ;) )
I can do it for you Tom, we'd love to have the pics for future reference...see your PM.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Doniphon
So, here's what I've received.
I’ve attached the following Winchester trench gun photos of the heat shield rivets:
1. WWI Model 1897 adaptor (this gun is in about 98% condition. See how the rivets have been ground down flush with the heat shield so that when blued they do not show).
2. WWII Model 97 adaptor (notice how the rivets are visible).
3. WWII Model 12 adaptor (this gun is an unissued Model 12 in about 99% condition. The rivets are also visible).
Fascinating. Thanks Tom! (and Jim!).
Curiously, the first 1897 has muzzle roughly flush with the bayonet guide. The second 1897 it's proud, and the model 12 it's recessed. This means many of the "rules" the internet experts peddle are suspect (Say it isn't so!). In particular this one https://gunmagwarehouse.com/blog/the...o-get-scammed/
I greedily would love to see many more pictures of these guns. With repro and fakes abounding, and pictures of verifiable originals hard to find or confirm, milsurps is the perfect place to discuss, as I trust pictures of our members' guns much more than the above link. Maybe a new thread if Tom is willing? I have a copy of the old Poyer (not the newer coffee table book) and Canfield on the way (knowing that there may be a few "softer facts" there too).
And trying to make sense of them makes your head hurt.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgross
Thanks Tom, I was pretty sure after studying some original M12 heat shields they were riveted. I plan on taking the adapter and homemade heat shield pieces to a local shop here to have them attached. After talking to the shop owner earlier in this project, he mentioned he's a US Military collector so I'm hopeful he can get the job done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Doniphon
I'll post whatever the results later on...thanks for all information and help form other members as well.
Dick
The photos Jim posted for me are all from original trench guns. That it how the bayonet adaptors fit on the different guns. On the WWI 1897 trench guns the bayonet adaptor stud is flush with the muzzle of the gun. On the WWII 97 trench guns the mounting stud extends beyond the muzzle. Not sure why this is. Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that the WWI guns were solid frame and the WWII guns were takedown models. On the Model 12 trench guns the end of the bayonet adaptor that slips over the barrel is flush with the muzzle with the bayonet mounting stud protrruding beyond the muzzle. See attached photo. Notice how the muzzle of the barrel is in the white.
I took my original adapter and the heat shield to the local shop here. He looked it over and suggested that heads of the steel rivets were probably inserted from inside and peened over on top of the adapter. My thoughts are that original examples look a little too uniform to be peened over but inserted from the outside top of the adapter. What he said does seem to make sense too though.
Anyway he didn't didn't have any steel rivets and couldn't attach it so I need to find some 5/64" steel rivets somewhere and if so I think I may be able to eventually attach it myself.
I'm curious if the original trench gun barrels were slightly thicker to compensate for the grooves for the adapter screws.
The sporting barrels are completely different. Thinner and tapered. The riot and trench are almost a straight taper and thick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
Look on Ebay. There is a guy who makes/sells steel rivets of all sizes for making medieval armor. I ordered from him to fabricate my Krag hand guard clips...lemme find the seller...here you go. loveduckleather https://www.ebay.com/usr/loveduckleather If you need what he doesn't have, shoot him a message and he likely be able to make it happen for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
Actually, on the Model 12, the sporting and riot barrels taper. The Model 12 trench gun barrels do not taper. That is why when the Military converted some Model 12 riot guns to trench guns they had to use a sleeve on the muzzle end of the barrel to make the bayonet adaptor fit properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
I took my original adapter and the homemade heat shield to the local shop here. He looked it over and suggested that heads of the steel rivets were probably inserted from inside and peened over on top of the adapter. My thoughts are that original examples look a little too uniform to be peened over but inserted from the outside top of the adapter. What he said does seem to make sense too though.... I can't really tell for certain.
Anyway he didn't didn't have any steel rivets and couldn't attach it so I need to find some 5/64" steel rivets somewhere and if so I think I may be able to eventually attach it myself.
I'm curious if the original trench gun barrels were slightly thicker to compensate for the grooves for the adapter screws.
Dick
---------- Post added at 01:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:57 PM ----------
Thank Jim...I forgot about that - do you know if the grooves for the adapter screws compromise the barrel strength on a sporting barrel as long they're not over done?Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
Why would they? This ain't goin' to war and I doubt you'll really overuse it... I've never heard of one going to pieces whilst in use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
Forgot about that, that's right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Doniphon
Only reason I asked about the barrel strength was just as a possible consideration.....I'm not that experienced and all it might take is one time for whatever reason to be enough to destroy a lot of hard work and a nice gun.
---------- Post added at 08:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:55 PM ----------
Thanks - I'll check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgross
After studying the original photos I'm not at all sure how the rivets were attached now. The heads could have been inserted inside the adapter but then it seems the holes would need to be counter sunk from the inside wall, and I totally don't understand how that could be done. So, they must have been inserted from the top and a mandrel inserted inside the adapter to flatten the shank and the heads dressed with a file. Then the inside would have to reamed out to smooth everything out. That's all I can see it done - maybe silver soldered as well for added strength(?) First item is to find the rivets and go form there.
That photo above the left rivet looks peened, and not ground flush. After peening, it would be fairly easy to make them look perfect..chamfer the hole in the heat shield to leave enough meat on the rivet, then when you file it flush it will be perfectly round like the hole. much harder to prepare the inside, but would be need to be done no matter how you inserted the rivet. if the holes are aligned both sides, you could insert rod through one side to drive a tool against the inside of the other to create a recess. If not, then maybe some kind of pull through tool was used?Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
What does the inside of your original adapter look like? is the hole flush or chamfered on the inside? In your case I'd worry more about function then duplicating the original method. When you finish filing/sanding/grinding, the outside will look right no matter what direction the rivet goes.
Photos of the inside of the adapter -Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgross
those look to have a chamfer for part of the head to reside. When bucking a rivet, the shank will expand and "flow" to fill the space and tighten the joint provided it was clamped together tight. insert rivets from inside. tap in a slightly tapered mandrel to hold it the rivet extra tight in the hole, and peen over the head from the outside. when you drill the hole in the shield, be sure to bevel it well...like a flush rivet on an airplane. when you grind it smooth, it will become as perfect as the circle and the bevel will give it enough meat to hold. That's how I did my krag handgaurd clips. much thinner metal than your shield, but a slight chamfer was enough. now, a hand guard clip doesn't have to be as strong as your heat shield, but same principal I think. When tapping the rivet by hand, you can tell and feel how tight the joint is becoming by the sound of the hammer. On the hand guard, tops on my test pieces would gradually increase in pitch until "pop" the wood split from the rivet expanding.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
Measure carefully!
That's such thoughtful info and I'll try to follow it - thank you. I'm a little familiar with aircraft riveting and understand some of what you say. I orders some 3/32" x 5/32" steel rivets from eBay last night and will wait till they arrive and try to go from there. I' not sure where to come with a the correct mandrel at this point but will try to find one. I have a few connections at the local airport.
Thank you again...I'll get back soon as I find out more to work with.
Dick
I would think a fat hardwood dowel with a piece of sheet steel as a shim would do the trick. Could use one of the tabs from an electrical box as the shim if you need something harder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
While you are at the big box store, get a flat piece of steel, cut some squares off, and practice your technique with flat pieces before you try to do the deed on your parts. lots of light, squarely placed, taps. Your rivets will be softer than you think. Take your time setting them.
I'll need to study what you've said so far and get back sometime after the rivets arrive.....thanks so very much for your help.
The rivets are here but may be slightly short...diameter seems fine but I think the length on these will provide enough to gain proper strength. The measure 3/32 X 5/32...(?)
edit to prev post: ...diameter seems fine but I think the length on these will not provide enough to gain proper strength.
Hello -
My apology for any apparent lack of follow up on this project. A few interruptions and various priorities took precedence. Anyway, I think the answer to the original heat shield attachment question was recently solved. A good friend with years of experience in the engineering and mechanics profession revealed that silver soldering the rivets was probably the answer. That sounds like the most logical and simple solution.
So, the next step is to clean up the matching holes, trim the length of the rivets and solder the buggers in. The entire shield and bayonet attachment will be blued - not sure if I'll cold blue myself or have it professionally rust-blued. Meantime the bottom of the barrel needs the grooves added also.
Results of each process should be within the next couple weeks.
Hope all is well with you guys,
Dick
Photos of the rivets installed but not soldered yet. The one misaligned hole will be filled in. Interior shot shows the rivets needing to be trimmed prior to soldering.
They look good. After trim they would be about right.
Thank you Jim...after this week I hope to work toward finally completing the project. I have a local friend that bought a repro heat shield and attachment for his M12 conversion from the same individual I immediately sent my order back to....it was so ugly. His lug is hand filed (rather than machined) the same as mine was and pretty crude in my opinion but he's satisfied with it, I guess.
Anyway, I'll check back in on occasion with any further.
Dick
In case you didn't see in another thread, Jack Schwarz passed away a month or so after you sent your's back. He was 84.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
No, I wasn't aware...thank you.
Depending on availability of a friend's shop I hope to get the rivets soldered in this week. On another note, I realized the magazine plug I intended to use is for a M97 and isn't compatible. It's an original so I hope it may not be too hard to find a trade for M12 plug. I'll try a notice in the classified.
Follow up on the above post:
I was mistaken about the mag plug. Apparently, both e M97 and M12 are the same. I was always curious about the hole through the main portion of it and apparently it was meant to allow any pressure built up in the tube to be released.
The rivets are trimmed now to fit flush and been inserted into the adapter with the heat shield in place. Everything looks good to go for soldering. The tapered barrel should be shimmed prior to attaching the adapter. I may send it off to have that done since the taper has to be compensated by shimming the outside diameter of the barrel and then turned down after silver soldering the barrel and shim together.
That's about it for now.
Dick
I didn't have the chance to do anything further yet. Plumbing and vehicle maintenance got in the way. However, I've been in communication with Tom Wilkinson at "Bull Creek Arms" who has kindly taken time to explain the possible need to shim my barrel before attaching the adapter. This is something I was aware of earlier concerning commercial barrels but had forgotten about it. The military apparently had to do the same thing when they were forced to use commercial barrels to keep up with the trench gun production.
I'll be back with more info soon as I can. Meantime I highly recommend Bull Creek Arms and Tom Wilkinson for any honest, quality work. He totally cleared up the question on the correct original rivet attachment to the adapter which was not silver soldered but traditionally riveted. I may solder mine out of simplicity since it won't appear or make any difference to me.
Getting closer despite the time taken....
Winchester used special purpose barrels for the Model 12 trench gun. These barrels do not have a taper like the riot barrels do. I have never heard that they used commercial barrels on trench guns to keep up with production nor have I ever seen an original production Model 12 trench gun with a commercial barrel. After WWII the military decided to convert many of its riot and long barrel Model 12s to trench guns. They brazed a sleeve on the muzzle end of the barrel to make the bayonet adaptor fit properly. The sleeve had the three transverse groove cuts on the bottom for the bayonet adaptor screws.
Tom,
You are no doubt correct, thanks for the clarification. I think I got the Trench Gun barrel confused with the commercial ones. It's been too long since I read about it. My conversion recently progressed to the point of sending off to have barrel sleeved. Tom Wilkinson at Bull Creek Arms is handling the work for me and I cannot say enough of how impressed I am with him. He took time on more than one occasion to talk to me about how the adapters were attached and the need for a sleeve on my commercial barrel. He even called me a couple nights ago to let me know it arrived. I can't say enough about how confident I am with him doing the work and will post any further info. He also was impressed with the home made heat shield which I am so thankful for the help and generosity of rcathy without whom this project probably would never have happened.[COLOR="black"]
I'll post anything further of interest that comes up.
Dick
Hello all -
My project should be completed following receipt of the barrel and adapter from Bullcreek Arms. The barrel was sleeved, grooved and apparently re- blued. Soon as it arrives and assembled to the receiver photos will be posted.
Dick
Looking forward...
The barrel and adapter arrived this morning and is now finally attached to the receiver. I'm pretty happy with it considering all the effort and period of time involved.
Not real sure about the rerpro sling - I think it's ok late for post WWII (?)....I had a 1907 sling but sold it before the conversion.
Comments or questions are welcome.
It's feels good to be a kid...:)
Dick
It looks good...the sling, I had a flat slider sling that I think was a Danish made that I used on my 870 Remington. It looked better I thought than a later M1 type. I wouldn't use the 1907 sling myself, they're so heavy.
Thanks Jim, I sorta wish I still had that 1907 sling just for comparison, but that's about all. The web sling is good enough and still looks period correct I believe. I'm just as proud of everything after all the time and effort anyway. The only bit I regret is the misaligned hole I drilled that I may try filling in with a modified rivet and very carefully trying to smooth off flush without messing up the bluing...just a thught.
Dick
Maybe...Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
Not a priority at the moment but sometime..."maybe". I'm happy with it time being anyway.
Congratulations on your completed project.
She is definitely a thing of beauty!
Hats off to you sir for a job well done! :clap:
Much thanks RAM1ALASKA...I'm very happy I finally was able to complete the project.
What are the thoughts on a repro M1907 leather sling as compared to the repro WWII cotton web...? One of those things where I can't decide. The leather 1907 is more desirable I guess - problem is for some odd reason I sold one I had on eBay a few months ago...don't recall why, I have no clue. :rolleyes:
"What are the thoughts on a repro M1907 leather sling as compared to the repro WWII cotton web...? One of those things where I can't decide. The leather 1907 is more desirable I guess - problem is for some odd reason I sold one I had on eBay a few months ago...don't recall why, I have no clue. "
edit: looks like the original photos on the web indicate a cotton web style so that's what I'll continue with for now.
Like I said, I had a repro made in Demark for theirs, flat slider canvas sling. It worked great and looked the part.Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcap
It looks like the canvas sling will be just fine...thanks!
The rest of the story, or some of it.
Appreciate the added information...thanks!