Well I handed it off and hoping for the best.
Printable View
Well I handed it off and hoping for the best.
It'll be fine.
I was going to ask the same as BAR LE. Not the steel as it's only a tad more than good mild steel, thick walled tube and thinking at a bit of a tangent, it'll get pretty stressed every time it's fired..... JM and Breaky, you're the metallurgists. What do you both say?
My local guys refer to significant walking zeros when a barrel has been straightened and not stress relieved afterwards.
Most to all of the custom barrel makers I know stress relieve their barrels in some way (I know of several different methods are used) after completing operations.
One fad from a few years ago was cryo (cold) treating barrels, new and old to reduce fouling, (allegedly) increase barrel life and mean accuracy, over "hot" stress relieving.
One local barrel maker "seasons" his material by storing it outside (in the weather) for at least 1 full seasonal cycle before he will deep hole drill or rifle the barrel. after boring he will heat stress relieve the barrel blank, then he cuts the rifling. This gentleman uses single point cut rifling and is extremely well known in the schutzen (and benchrest) circles.
I've also seen several custom barrels which were not stress relieved after manufacture which split (thankfully not during firing). I believe 2 of the barrels were from the same barrel maker (who retired @ 7 years ago) who has an good accuracy reputation. One of the 2 split during final contouring, and the other split at an unknown time from the muzzle (about 28") to the threads held captive in the receiver.
I'm not a metallurgist, but I do work in heat treating...
Still, I'm thinking since it's a #5 and they don't have a stellar reputation for holding zero, and it's not exactly a match rifle...he can probably skip it...
Yes I would be interested how this is done also I'm sure it will be a while before he gets it done. He's good but takes for ever.