Working on a long range K-31 Swiss

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...8/03/k31-1.jpg

Here it is in it's stock configuration.
For all you purist out there, I too am mostly a purist, so I have no intentions of altering this rifle. I do plan on doing some things to see how I can do at the 400-500 meter range.
I have ordered the clamp-on scope mount, rather than the Scout-type mount. I have the Scout-type on an SKS with a non-magnified M16 type electric optic sight. Eye relief is not an issue with that, and both eyes can be kept open. With the K-31, I will be using a regular, magnified scope, so I wanted it closer to the eye (where a scope normally is.) I have order a Tasco 6-24x40 scope. Tasco isn't the "top end" but they are okay as far as budget priced scopes go. I have also ordered medium height 3/8 dovetail steel rings, which should give me sufficient clearance with the 40mm objective. I seriously thought about getting a muzzle brake, but couldn't currently justify the $70 cost for it. I have ordered a slip-on recoil pad from Yakpads (Shooterpad.) I know that finding a properly sized recoil pad for the K-31 can be an issue, but this one is "universal" and it appears that it will work nicely. It feels nice.
I'm waiting on the items to get delivered, and it appears that I may be waiting a few more days to try it all out because of weather. Seems like when it warms up the wind blows 30mph.
This will be the first time I have scope a rifle like this. Any tips or advice?

Nice looking K31 and a very early date .... :thup:

I'm not really a Swiss shooter, although I do have a virtually unfired ZFK55 sniper rifle (click here) that I've never even taken to the range. :p

I'm sure diopter on here, who's a Swiss rifle guru amongst others, will be able to answer your questions... :)

Regards,
Badger

1) Shooting jacket instead of recoil pads. One jacket fits all of your rifles. Canvas jacket about $100.00+
2) I see no reason for a muzzle brake myself.
3) Center the scope adjustments first. Try to mechanically align the rings with the bore, if possible.
4) Have an good, experienced shooter spot for you.
5) Make sure your action screws are tight before you start.
6) Keep a log of every-shot fired.

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1) Shooting jacket instead of recoil pads. One jacket fits all of your rifles. Canvas jacket about $100.00+
2) I see no reason for a muzzle brake myself.
3) Center the scope adjustments first. Try to mechanically align the rings with the bore, if possible.
4) Have an good, experienced shooter spot for you.
5) Make sure your action screws are tight before you start.
6) Keep a log of every-shot fired.

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Thanks, Diopter.
Jacket = $100 Shooterpad = $20.00
The shooting jacket is a good idea, but since I've already got the Shooterpad (which fits very nicely and is good and soft) I'll try using it.
Yeah, I really can't see where a muzzle brake would make $70 worth of difference.
I have a bore sighter due in any day now, and the rings I have allow some windage adjustments.
The fellow that has the range is a long time shooter, so he will be helping me.
Roger on the action screws.
I've never logged my shots. I'll try that. Thanks.

What a great looking rifle! Mine is 1941, but it has a beech handguard. Sure looks funny, on the walnut stock! The rifle is so accurate, I just can't bring myself to change anything on it. I did try temporarily floating the barrel, following the advice of an internet expert. Waste of time! Shoots much better the way it was built. They are sensitive to where you hold them, always rest the forearm directly in front of the mag. Have fun! A friend once told me that the Swiss cleaned up at every 600m shoot, out shooting all the other armies.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...IMG_0065-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...IMG_0067-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...IMG_0068-1.jpg

Here it is for its "dress rehersal." In these pics, nothing is tightened down or aligned, but just demonstrating. I also got an Allen rifle case. This things is VERY thickly padded and is roomy enough for a scope.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by K31

What a great looking rifle! Mine is 1941, but it has a beech handguard.

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Check the Switzerland - Milsurp Knowledge Library (click here)

There's an MKL entry for a 1941 Swiss Model 1931 Short Rifle (K31) (click here)

The rifle displayed in the picture virtual tour there has "all matching" serial numbers, including the bayonet, scabbard and frog. Even the sling is manufactured and marked "E. Wirthlin, Mohlin 1941".

Regards,
Badger

That made me drool on my keyboard.

The knowledge library says that the K31 had a floating barrel. This is incorrect, the K31 was floated to the front band, then tightly bedded with upward pressure. Similar to the LEE ENFIELD No.4 bedding. This info is from the Swiss manual on the K11 and K31.

Floating....non-floating. As long as it goes bang and hits where I aim it.
Here she is with everything securely mounted and ready to go. Just waiting for good weather and time.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../k310001-1.jpg

I have a k31 that bubba re-worked the stock for me. My buddy at work wants me to turn it into an F-class rig for him. In return I get a Tikka tac rig, hum, he's got to buy the parts. I'll post it when complete. My personal K31, shoots 1.5" @ 100 yards doing my part. I think hand loads could bring that down a bit-SDH

I've changed my opinion on the muzzle brake over the last two years.
It is a definite help to get recoil sensitive shooters to shoot the K31 often and do it very well to boot. Really helps prevent flinching.
Brings recoil level down to about 6.5x55 level or less.

The Muzzle break for me is more important to took the gases away from the bullets back. It gives a bit of more accuracy. But it isnt so with every barrel, some barrels dont like it and gives you a bader grouping after the use of an Muzzle break. Its a bit of an lottery.

Regards

Gunner

The steel shim under the receiver bolt comes in different thicknesses. You change this shim to control barrel tension. You should address the barrel fit at the end of the fore-end, the barrel needs to be able to move and return to the same location after every round fired. You can experiment with the torque on the rear trigger guard screw. With a good bore the K-31 is an amazingly accurate rifle with GP11 ammo.

There are plenty of K31's with muzzle brakes at the local Military Silhouette shoot in Sacramento CA. Mine does not have one and it is not much fun shooting next to the people that use them. After 10 shots if you don't have a flinch you will. I try to get my firing point as far back as I can and not present a danger to others. I also wear plugs and muffs. I much prefer to be next to the M91/30 Mosins as the long barrel and no brake is not as noticeable.

Wineman

Quote:

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Originally Posted by diopter

I've changed my opinion on the muzzle brake over the last two years.
It is a definite help to get recoil sensitive shooters to shoot the K31 often and do it very well to boot. Really helps prevent flinching.
Brings recoil level down to about 6.5x55 level or less.

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I'm going to look at a K-31 this afternoon. It's super cheap because it has a threaded muzzle, 14X1 I believe. What brake are you using? If I get this rifle I well be looking at the Swiss products brake. Are their others?

I didn't think I was recoil sensitive until I started shooting the Swiss K-31.

M14x1.0mm is the correct thread and pitch used by the Swiss Products thread on brake and also their dampner.

I've been trying out the clamp-on muzzle brakes. I do have one K31 reserved for use of the threaded brake and also the dampner, if I ever get the time.

I bought that K, $175, could not say no at that price. The threads for the brake are galled but well clean up fine. It's a 43 with a nice walnut stock, nice sling, muzzle cap and 30rds of GP11. I'm doing the happy dance.

It's almost finished, scope, brake are mounted, working on the recoil pad adapter from SP.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../brake04-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../brake03-1.jpg

So how aobut some range reports?
:confused:

What kind of a scope is that?

*Forgot to mention.... Gunner, our Clamp On Muzzle Brakes don't affect accuracy at all, at least we've never had a report of that happening.
They definitely reduce felt recoil by a bunch.
The difference between the Clamp On and the Threaded Brake is that the Threaded Brake has a smaller diameter opening. Its perfectly concentric to the bore if the threading is done properly using the Bore Pilot, and the Clamp On depends on the OD of the barrel. Not all k31 barrels are exactly alike, so the opening of the Clamp On is slightly larger to prevent any uneven gas upset.

Latigo

I sold my harley yesterday and after cleaning up a credit car with a couple of M1 Garands on it I will be seriously considering a k-31 from J&G. How does that scope mount ,is it made only for the K-31 and where would I get one and how much will it set me back?
I would like to know sources for the scope mount parts. Also it was mentioned to Aline with bore and it seems the scope is off set.

Your not leaving that recoil pad on there are you? that would certainly discolor the wood over time. Also be careful when removing it as it may wear down the finish near the butplate if it overly tight. Otherwise congrats on a nice looking gun!!! Let us know how she shoots.

First of all.......A clarification from our Distributor in the Netherlands

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It shows that it hardly touches the receiver so no worries for any bluing damage.

Guisan.

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As for where to get it........ Swiss Products
Scroll to the bottom for our US Distributors.

Note that there is a Buttpad Adaptor shown on our website. It allows you to install a Pachmayer or similar without altering the buttstock at all.

This is a link to the discussions about off-set mounts. Remember the M1-D Garand? No difference.


Decent Scope Mount for K31 in Straight-Pull Rifles Forum

Latigo

Very nice thankyou latigo for the pictures and details (that look simple for even me) whether I go to that extent or just buy and shoot iron sights it is info i still enjoyed learning.

My pleasure, Dave.

Latigo

Well, this is what I did: ($245 shipped scope rig)

Scope: Burris 2-7X35mm Fullfield II
Mount: Swiss products clamp on
Rings: Burris Signature Rimfire/11mm med height
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../01/0032-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../01/0021-2.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...1/01/004-2.jpg

Irons still have 400m and it is pretty cool being able to "slide" over and have a nice magnified optic sight picture!

Whoa! Beautiful!

Latigo

Nice! I have two K31's, I need to scope at least one of them.