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Hi folks,
I recently acquired a repro No 32 MKII scope from Numrich. I notice there are screws under the turrets as well as a need for a tool to make adjustments. Also, the windage turret is hard to turn. Is there a way to loosen it?
I have looked all over the internet, but can find no info on how to make the adjustments. Is there a manual somewhere?
Thanks in advance for any help.
I have no idea whether it's relevant to the Repro No.32 Scopes being sold now, but there's an excellent pair of books for the Enfield collector who has a real No.32 scope, and both can be ordered directly from Brian Dick at BDL .... :)
Thanks for stocking these for everyone Brian ... :super:
Regards,
Doug
Quote:
In addition to being a trained and highly experienced military Armourer, he has authored two excellent books about the No.4(T) sniper rifles and their No.32 scopes. They are titled "An Armourer's Perspective: .303 No.4(T) Sniper Rifle", which he co-authored with Ian Skennerton and his own dedicated work, "Telescope Sighting No.32".
If you're really interested in some in-depth learning about the No.4(T) sniper rifles and the No.32 series of scopes, their history, evolution, repair and adjustments for shooting, we'd highly recommend those two books, which are pictured below.
http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...Laidler-HC.jpg(Click PIC to Enlarge)http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...32-Laidler.jpg
Purchase the adjusting tool from where you bought the scope and then buy the book mentioned above, or check on the net. The adjusting sequence is there someplace. Or, make your own tool
The windage should not be tight. If anything most of the repro's I have looked at, the windage adjustment is quit loose and I have had to correct the condition.
Just out of curiosity, what do you have the scope mounted on and how is it mounted?
Or better still, if Warren doesn't mind me butting in.............. sorry Warren! Don't bother with the adjusting tool. Just slightly loosen the outer clamp ring so that it's tight enough to hold the inner lead screw but loose enough to allow you to adjust the inner lead screw. Then adjust the graticle using the lead screw. Whe you've done it and it's zeroed, then leave the bloody things alone!
To be brutally honest and frank................. And I know it's always clever to be wise after the event.......... I'd have saved for twice as long and paid twice the price for the real McCoy because once your repop goes wrong, and as sure as god made little green apples it will, then you are fu............. Er, what's the word I'm looking for? Anyone help me?
The reason I suggested the tool is most of the repro scope lock rings are locked up rather tight (some VERY tight). Also, the repro lock rings are brass and not steel as the originals so they will easily mark up if you don't use the tool or at least make a wrench to unscrew the ring first. Once it is loose then as Peter says, just finger tight will do and you can make a wrench out of an Allen wrench with a slot cut in it to adjust the scope. Or, if you do buy the tool just pull the centre out of it and just use it. You do not have to lock up the lock ring with a pipe wrench.......good finger tight is more than sufficient.
I have actually bent the arms on the adjusting tool tommy bars trying to loosen up some locking rings. They must have used a pipe wrench to tighten the locking rings.
It's going on a No 4Mk1. I'm using a mount and pads from Accumounts. Drilling and tapping the receiver isn't a problem, but from reading some of Peter's articles, it sounds like getting the adjustments correct is not for the faint hearted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren
Will lossening the outer clamp ring allow the windage turret to turn easier?
Peter,
I really couldn't see spending that much for an original to put on a $150 rifle. I read your articles on making a No4 Mk1 into a sniper and since I have a K98 Mauser and a Yugo M24 set up as snipers, with ZF41 and ZF39 scopes respectively, I thought I would give them some company with the Enfield.
Just to be sure I'm on the same page with you, is the outer clamp ring the one with the slots opposite one another and the inner lead screw the one with the rectangular protrusion?
Yes - got it in one. The OUTER clamp ring simply locks up the inner rectangular headed LEAD SCREW and it is this LEAD SCREW that operates on the internal lead screw nut and cursor that give the adjustment when you rotate the drum(s)
Loosening the outer clamp ring/nut will not (certainly on a standard No32 scope.....) slacken off or loosen the rotation of the deflection thumbscrew
If you have a turret adjustment that is tight and does not go the full travel. I'd suggest loosening the four screws holding the plate to the turret. Rotate the adjustment to make sure it is loose and not binding then tighten the four screws all a bit at a time. Before doing this however make sure that you have the outer jam nut loose a 1/2 turn or so. Just loose...then tighten the four plate screws.
Remember to tighten it up again and test. If still a bit sticky repeat the procedure.
Thanks Warren, problem solved.
gunsmith63,
May I ask how much a your repro was ? only ask as it seems more and more are buying the repro scopes rather than looking for an original, can understand the point of view of the rifle was only $150 but an original scope will only ever go up in price. I purchased another Mk11 recently for £620 and its excellent apart from some light pitting.
I must admit buying it on the aution site can be a gamble at times, I,ve had two that needed work but was simple enough to remedy and the sellers did say what was wrong, the Mk1 had a strange site picture (It had the eye lens the wrong way round), and the mk11 had a seized drum, with the advice from Peter and Warren you cant go wrong, plus apart from Peters excellent books there is his article in the stickys regarding buying a No32 scope. even for anyone who hasnt got a No32 scope I certanly recomend the books, they wont break the bank and are a must for any colector shooter etc.
Peter,
I have a couple of questions. In your 4 part article on converting to a sniper, you talked about some ranges. 1Km, 250 yards etc. In my neck of the woods, (literally) it is heavily forested. I can get a clear view only to 100 yards or so. Any suggestions for shorter ranges? Also, the receiver is hardened steel. Would you be able to recommend what type of drill bits to drill the through holes, carbide, cobalt, hss. Could I anneal the pad areas to soften them and heat treat again later after the holes are drilled?
All help is appreciated.
bigduke6,
I got the repro from Numrich here in the US. It was $400. I have looked for an original, but all the prices I found were in the $1000 and up range. This is going to be a range and hunting rifle so I would hate to bang up a very expensive scope. Also, there have been tales of sellers that claim the scope to be an original, only it isn't.
I will be ordering both of Peter's books and yes, Warren solved a major headache for me.
Gunsmith. The rifle body is not hardened steel. Whoever gave you that idea! Use bog standard modern HSS drills and taps. Sorry to sound brusque, but if you ain't got the distances I suggest, then go somewhere where you have! A distant aiming point is a distant aiming point