New to me Trapdoor

Hello everyone.

I've perused the info and impressive rifles here for a while, and I recently purchased this Model 1884 Springfield. It has an inspector's mark and serial number production year of 1888. Looks good overall, although the inspection mark seems almost too clear compared to what I have seen on other rifles.

Rifling looks good, and at some point I plan to hand-load some rounds to put through it. I've looked at developed loads elsewhere (the Trapdoor Collector website, most notably). Anyone here have any favorite loads they'd like to suggest?

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Welcome to the forum, you should have a look through a few books and see what they recommend, some will come to you here but check them against verified information. Nice looking rifle. You say the barrel is good?

From what I can see, yes. I don't have my good bore light on hand, but I can't see much (if any) sign of pitting and the rifling looks reasonably sharp.

Nice. I've never been so lucky.

I have to say it's a very crisp looking example, lovely piece for any collection.

I'm not too up on these trapdoors, surprised they were still being made at that point, were they directly replaced by the Krag?

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Originally Posted by mrclark303

I have to say it's a very crisp looking example, lovely piece for any collection.

I'm not too up on these trapdoors, surprised they were still being made at that point, were they directly replaced by the Krag?

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They are a lovely rifle John, mine is on Gunstar at present at a very low price.....

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Originally Posted by mrclark303

surprised they were still being made at that point

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1888? The Krag didn't come into service for some time...5 years is a space age in the military and government.

Before handloading, slug your bore as most shooters require a .459 dia bullet for best results. If loading black powder, a drop tube is nice to use for the powder.

Some late trapdoors were made in 30-40 Krag caliber but did not work out, these actions were very weak compared to the Martini of the same period

I've heard of drop tubes, but never seen one. How difficult are those to come across? Also, I've heard of people using a blow tube during shooting - what's that for?

1+ on slugging, mine requires a .460 bullet to stabalize. ..458s went sideways through the target. I used a Black Powder compression die instead of a drop tube. Either method gets you there. Best advise is no air pocket between powder and bullet. Couple good books on the topic is 40 Years with the 45-70 by Paul Matthews and Loading Cartridges for the Original 45-70 Springfield Rifle and Carbine by J.S. And Pat Wolf. Skip experimenting and read the books first then get your loading stuff and take off. I did it backwards, can't recommend that. Mine is very similar to yours but born 1 year later.

Thanks, I will definitely check it out

Between 1890 and 1892, Springfield made 15 .30-caliber rifles. Most are accounted for, in museums and private collections. They used a special strengthened action with a slightly different locking cam. The so-called "positive cam" was first tested on just 100 .45-70 rifles (which have serial numbers in the 4155xx to 4156xx range, in 1888). Their blocks are marked US/Model/1888. This is all covered, in detail, in my new book just published last week - "More .45-70 Springfields 1873-1893" which is available on Amazon.

I figure, why re-invent the wheel when it comes to loads for our rifles? I too have an 1884. I use the "carbine" load. No sense in trying to make it into a cannon with the full-power rifle load, and my shoulder is not up to it anyway. I use the Lee 405 grain bullet mold (which is a hollow-base bullet), with melted wheelweights and no hardening. I size .001 or so above my land diameter (I forget what it is right now), but slugging the barrel is a definite requirement. I drop 55 grains of blackpowder into a cartridge, place a corrugated cardboard wad over the charge (to ensure there is no air space), drop a touch of lube over the wad, then press that slug down over it. Been happy with this load.

Wondering what your average group size is at 100yds. off a bench, as you (if I read your post correctly) seem to be "breaking" two of the "rules"?

One, the suggested use of only soft lead, on the order of 20-1 or 30-1, which wheelweights are definitely not, and then sizing .001" over land diameter. The best groups seem to come from sizing .001" over the bore diameter.