p14 cocking piece safety issues

Hello - new member here. Just picked up a new to me p14 sporter custom chambered in 358 norma. It's a beautiful gun but there are a couple issues. Foremost I'm having an issue with the safety not working. The top photo has two bolts - top is the custom, bottom is my p17 - both are stamped E if that makes any sense. Last photo is of the p14 safety engaged.
Guess I'm kinda wondering which direction I should go to get the safety fixed - replace the cocking piece, or go with a speedlock kit with a Dayton Traister trigger? Can I even do that in this rifle?
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../02/p141-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../02/p142-1.jpg

Just wondering if I have mismatched parts here or a gunsmith that didn't know what he was doing

Change out the cocking piece A.S.P. the safety should work than . It is very unsafe as it is now .

I think it might have a cock on opening conversion though and the trigger isn't a two stage anymore either. Looking for someone with extensive experience with these bolts.

You need to change the cocking piece out, the safety has all been removed.

Your cocking piece is at fault. I've never seen such a horrible looking example.
Attached are 3 photos of P14/M1917 cocking pieces, a standard cock on closing,
a standard cock on opening, My built-up cock on opening for use with a Timney trigger.
For some reason yours looks like a cock on opening unit that was poorly hand made.
Please replace it before using the rifle any further for safety's sake. - Bill

ETA: You can see in the well made cock on opening pieces how the gap for the safety hooks back
to fit the original safety which yours doesn't have.

Thanks Bill - Until I get a chance to replace it I'll fill it with jbweld - that way there's no mistaking it as a working safety. The lever just won't move. I'll see if I can find a cocking piece. I'm in Canada so things are sometimes a little tougher to find but this shouldn't be too hard.

Numrich has cocking pieces in stock for $7.95 plus shipping. Ever since they dropped the export fee surcharge shipping is not to bad especially if you need a few items.

So, I guess my question would be... the trigger has been altered - it's single stage now... and the bolt is cock on close as well... do I need to get a pre-modified cocking piece for cock on close then? What else might I need? I should order all the parts I might need. As Mr E Moose said they are inexpensive anyways.

Yes Aletheuo you will need a cock on opening cocking piece of which there are exactly NONE for sale anywhere. Your 2 options is buy a new cock on opening (or speed) lock or convert it back to cock on closing. Another important consideration is the trigger. Is it a converted military trigger with a grinding job and take up screws added to remove the 2 stage and reduce length of pull or is it a proper aftermarket trigger. If your not sure about the trigger post pics, one of us will be able to give you an answer. I have a Timney trigger on my M1917 which is why I had to build up the cocking piece. There isn't enough surface for the sear to bite on those shorter aftermarket cocking pieces. A gentle bump on the butt plate was all that was needed to set off the rifle until the cocking piece was built up. If it is a modified service trigger you shouldn't have any problems with either choice.

Congratulations you now have several things to check as well as several options to weigh. Welcome to the joy of 100 year old service rifles! However once you have it figured out the P14 is a wonderful rifle to shoot. Very easy recoil and accurate to boot. Let us know what your course of action will be. - Bill

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../02/p143-1.jpg
Pictured above is the bolt assembly without spring showing the final position of the cocking piece as close to the head of the bolt as possible. The firing pin must be limiting travel.
Looks like I probably need a whole new bolt body or have someone perhaps add a bit of material into it without affecting it's head treat if that's at all possible.
Bolt lock is also missing and there wasn't a hole drilled in the new handle either so that needs to be done.
Firing pin protrusion is about 90 thou - Assuming that's the complete travel possible as there's nothing under the cocking piece to prevent it from going further that way.

So, am I in for a new bolt body and cocking piece? Also, is the handle just soldered on usually? Kinda looks that way. I'll def need a straight one to fit in the stock.

Jamie

No, they are not just soldered on. Often that is done for a military rifle that has the bolt modified for clearance when scope is put on.

I single load and shoot mine at the range so the safety would not be an issue for me.

I think the pin protrusion is too much, will see if I can find my data on that. Pierced primer and gas release so wait to fire it.

My take is that someone did a home shop job on that bolt.

I know its easy to say but I would be inclined to a new bolt and very likely trigger if that has been mangled the same.

I think it has to be a P14 specif bolt body as the 303 is a rimmed round and would be larger than a 30-06. Maybe P17 could be opened up.

I don't say that lightly but I did build a 7.5 Swiss on a modern action and was able to do that as the body diameter is the same, it was just a matter of how much materiel was opened up on the face.

I do say that with caution, the Savage can replace the head if I had made a mistake, no so on the P17 of course.

Jamie nothing about your bolt looks "normal" to a P14. Are you sure this rifle started life as a P14? Here is a picture of my M1917 bolt (left) and my P14 bolt. Your bolt doesn't seem to have the step on the left of the notch that mine has and your notch is much deeper.

I'm not really sure what's going on with your rifle at this point but my recommendation would be to bring it into a gunsmith to insure that it is safe to shoot. - Bill

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oldfoneguy

Jamie nothing about your bolt looks "normal" to a P14

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oldfoneguy - correct, it ain't normal. I've just ordered a cock on opening speed lock kit from numrich but that's not going to be enough. The bolt is either going to have to be fixed or replaced as it appears to be a cock on opening cock-up by a kitchen gunsmith. Because I like the handle and it's correctly headspaced already, I'm leaning towards having some material added to the bolt (yes, carefully, ensuring the lug temper doesn't get screwed up) and then re-grinding it to the stock profile at the cocking piece opening. I think that's the easiest way.

I hope this plan of attack works out for you and your not just chasing you tail as your original bolt IS a mess. A replacement stripped bolt at Numrich runs $37.25-US but has a non export warning. I'm sure you could find one in Canada, however headspace becomes an issue at that point and unlike an SMLE or No4-No5 rifle it is not as easy to adjust. It would have to be professionally installed. Of course overall condition of the rifle will have to justify such an investment including the muzzle and throat. Replacement barrels are available but you will have to decide how far you want to go with this project.

I wish you luck in this endeavor and hope it works out because as I've said before they are great shooting rifles and for the world to loose one because of a hack job would be a shame. - Bill